Sunday, February 02, 2014

Best surf at Terramar that I can remember !

The much hyped swell lived up to its expectation for myself and many others I surf with . The weather over the last 10 days was SPECTACULAR.

Warm off shores, clear skies ,warm water(60-62),
 glass, glass, and more GLASS !
Waves, Waves, and more Waves ~~~ ,
 Nice ones !!
The swell arrived Sunday 1/20/14, 2 weeks ago.
 I surfed after work Monday ,Tuesday and Wednesday, these were days I would load my board into the convertible and park it at work. At the ending bell I just run out to the car and drive to Terramar. As always, I am filled with anticipation and to an extent butterflies in this situation.
When the swell is so hyped, I can't help but wonder If my relatively out of shape and quickly changing, aging body, is up to the paddle out?
This swell was filled with lulls and not too much other swell in the water. That made the paddle out pretty easy .The waves came in sets, the kind where each successive wave breaks further and further out, making every one scratch to get over and out.
So odd to be way outside on a 10 foot board right next to someone on a 5 foot board. Makes it hard to judge who will get into the wave first.
I was so impressed how every one behaved themselves. Mon Tues and Wed. were great!! Lots of people in the water but I got mine.
Sat morning dawn patrol was a different story.
4 dawn patrols out, myself and 3 others. It stayed that way for an hour and a half! Extraordinary.
Beautiful, big waves!
Pure glass, quiet, punchy, nice drops !
Good shoulders,
Super, super stoked !
I rode some rights long and fast.
Sunday was more of the same but the wave was a bit different shape. Better in some respects....just beautiful stuff. I recall saying to my friends " hey guys look around, this may be as good as it gets".
 I have never been so stoked !
Each day before the paddle out, while waiting for the sunrise on the cliff,
I felt like I was a kid on Christmas day with the promise of some great gift or some thing.....
Got out again the next Monday and Wednesday for more spectacular conditions. Wednesday  evening I surfed in a line up of TWO... myself and another.
I asked James for some tips on how I might improve. We talked about me and my form in that I should stand taller with an arch with a more aggressive stance and work the wave more, possibly staying to the back of the board more consistantly,
rather than always running to the nose. This was my conclusion as well. We agreed that the one who has the most fun is the best surfer....but in a real way I decided to try this advice on the last two ultra long rights and it worked. Stood on the rear steering with the nose out of the water.
It worked well and I felt good about that.
So stoked on the week and a half of epic weather, conditions and beautiful waves.
 As I write this, the month of January is now over and the epic weather and surf combo is over too.
I have 16 days of surfing in this year.
 That will be a week and a half of surfing I will never forget.  I hope !

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