Perfect, SSW, WNW, WSW combo swell Lights up Igor's and the reef

Swells 2.5ft at 14s SSW 198º 0.9ft at 14s WNW 282º 0.4ft at 14s WSW 249 Tide 2.5ft Low tide -0.4ft at 01:42pm 3-4 foot EPIC conditions And I'm not in ?? 76827

DAY 2, Monday Janurary 23,,2022

​It was gonna be kinda hard to top the last session the first one of 2022, but there is a lot of winter left and pretty much I would guess a few days a big set waves to come through still. 

The weather, (especially for the middle of January)is just really epic and so are the conditions. A lot of glass. The Water crystal clear , like Lake Tahoe kind of clear. you can see all the way down to the bottom no matter where we were in the lineup. Only about six people there and we each managed to get just a couple waves.The waves were definitely smaller not as lined up and a little weaker but we surfed for an hour and a half or so and then got out. It was a good surf. While my son Jason and I were walking back towards the truck this time, I had toput my board down. I have to do that now just so I can stretch my back after surf. We put down the boards and as I was stretching a little bit we both looked around, the tide was low, a foot or less so there was a lot of beach exposed. There was a lot of sand up on the shore. Oh my gosh it’s us on the beach may as well been you know just somewhere far away from home in some beautiful relatively deserted beach and we both stood there kind of soaking that in for 10 minutes or so. We both were really grateful for where we live, and being able to do this with each other, father and son, son and father. Just the epic conditions, so beautiful. We’re both out of shape. We are both finding reasons again to get into good shape in and give it a go. It was a very nice day, very nice day indeed Counter 76749 

1st surf of 2022. A GREAT START !

​ 

01.12.22 The word was overhead super glass with juice.

Yep that was it .With  great long rights that I haven’t seen in years. A swell from the west. . 10 am to 12 with my son . Upon the advice of friends I paddled out in the reef 5 palms channel. ✅ 

STATS by Chiron Jason "Super Glide" Froelich

1.7-1.0

2 Knots E

4-7

W

277

13

Glassy

We surfed further south today, just north of the Terramar Beach club. Waves were breaking nicely 

with an incredible right hander. ... The wall lined up nicely on the inside and made for a screamy finish.

Sat on the southern corner of the very long wave line avoiding the first section .✅

Had an amazing 2 hours✅

Got the best smoothest longest right faces with the wave standing perfectly in front of me just  speeding down the line with a cut back on a few of em.✅

Yes there’s something to shoot for this new year.  Get stoked✅     A lot✅

Surf on.          I am counting on no matter how much work I gotta do,

 to get back to surf shape as best I can.  Back to good!

76724 counter

It's been 7 years since my last entry into this journal. A lot has changed.

My son Jason recently left this entry on the BLOG : 

 Jason Froelich said...

Dad, it's been really great surfing with you on Mondays lately and I can't wait until April 6, 2021 when you are retired and we can go surfing all the time :-)

11:17 PM

 

Exactly 7 years ago, on my last entry April 6th, 2014 (my birthday)

 I was 58 years old and my dad was dying in a hospital up in Reno.

   My mother left this earth long ago, when I was 24 years old. My Sister left early too. 

 My immediate  remaining blood family members are my brother who is 74 years old,

 and my son Jason who is 34. 

I promised myself years back at 65 I will try to retire.

I did it ! !

I retired at 65 a few days ago ! ! 

I can surf when ever I want to. I hope to surf a lot. 

I hope to surf a lot with Jason, my son.

I have been working on my now old and beat up body, in anticipation.

Shoulder lifts with dumb bells'

Curls

Sit ups

Pushups

Bicycling

long walking

I have lost about 30 lbs and have about 20 to go ideally.

I have only surfed 5 times this year. Both knees have sustained damage... real damage.

I can still pop-up but it is slower now and more guarded. But in the only 5 sessions this year 3 of which were with Jason I have stood up on waves and got into faces, 

I AM FILLED WITH REAL HOPE !

Hope to surf often with my son in beautiful thick glassy waves, Wearing only trunks.

~ Gliding in, under, over, and thru the beautiful waters ~

I AM STOKED

Totally stoked.

Surf on .... I know I will 

Cold, Clear, and Glassy , but there are no waves in Reno

Surfing at Terramar is changing...................... for me, in a very good way. "It's a way of looking at that wave and saying, "Hey bud, let's party!"

I'm getting even more stoked these days.
Soo stoked I had to quote the infamous Jeff .Spicoli.

The last 2 larger swells that have rolled through, have allowed me to start to break out of a performance plateau .

 

I am feeling the power of the wave more and understanding how I need to respond to changes in the waves as I ride .

I am so joyous while surfing its kinda weird !

I remember while learning to snow ski some 30 years ago, what it felt like to go from doing a "stem Christie" one ski at a time turn, to doing a parallel fluid turn.
It was all of a sudden, and profound.
Well this last 2 weeks has not been as sudden of a change as that was,  but it is changing for me in a good way. A way that raises my daring and confidence to a higher level.
To quote Jeff Spicoli "It's a way of looking at that wave and saying, "Hey bud, let's party!"
I like it... A LOT ! !

VERY STOKED
VERY HAPPY
VERY SURPRISED ! !

Surf on

Dawn Patrol .. how beautiful can it get

Today was surf # 6 in 2014.  This morning was different in that
lines were in the water.

Only myself and one other paddled out for "Dawn Patrol"(so far)
In 30 minutes here is what we found..
A swell in the water, enough  to tumble  on the paddle out.
Solitude.
Stayed out of each others hair for the first part of the surf.
Solitude.................... Quiet
The swell started to come, sets in a row.
We are alone in the ocean as far as the eye could see, catching any waves that were desired.I may have missed one or two by this time but had 8-10 in the bag very quickly.
I was taking mostly rights... at a left hand break
I was making nice drops and bottom turns and breaking with my inside hand to try to get covered in the waves where it was appropriate.
Fun ......................... FUN
Sunrise began waking up the sky
Super clear Skies ,light blue dawn skies,
just a couple of pink and orange wispy clouds in the sunrise
Super clear water......
Dolphins............a lot of them
Rolled right off the board and dove right down to greet one that was only about a foot out of reach.
I was answered back with a bit of dolphin dialog, haunting and beautiful as he swam by.
Super glassy water... glass and solitude are what I get up so early for.
Caught many knee to waist waves in the first part of the Dawn Patrol....
Many waves....  some of them split between the only two surfers in the water, right and left.
I was actually overcome with stoke and joy.
Stoke... Joy .
So nice !
After the solitude a couple of other Dawn Patrols came .
Now 4 were in the water .
Only 4
Still so good.
Dawn patrol is a GOOD group.

Got a few more, and so did every one else. Good times !

Got out at 7:45AM and headed up the the cliff.

I am so fortunate and very thankful
very thankful ! !

surf on

Here comes the BiG StuFF.. u u u f f f

This year has seen not much of any thing from the winter waves I thought would have been here by now. Last "year"(2012) I recall both a November and December had some large swell. This year 2013 Nov and Dec were very tame and small. Well I have now 4 days in this New Year. 2014 and here comes the first big winter swell for Southern California. In about 10 days there is a prediction for 10 day or more of 4-10foot plus WELL ALRIGHTY THEN I'm gonna get as much as I can surf on

SANTA I want some Big Glassy Fat Ones to surf in 2014 ....... and oh yeah .......

I do LOVE THE OCEAN
1/1/14 I cant get enough of it. I am hopeless to resist its call. It calls a lot ! !
It was beautiful and the FIRST SURF OF THE YEAR as in #1
Sunny Clear and COLD in the air with about 59 degree water.
Surfed some big Tides that were 7'+ in Dawn Patrol
Really not feeling the hide tide inside so much
But the conditions were so spectacular that after getting a couple waves in the tidal smackdown, I chose to float on my back in the water at 0700 AM on the first of January !
SUNNY CLEAR CRISP AIR
and
 CLEAR BEAUTIFUL, GREEN BLUE WATER
I mean clear like a swimming pool and looking at the mix of sand,rock, grass,reef ,and fishes as I float along. There is just something very cool about doing this in January .

I Love it... all that is surfing.

Happy New Year

surf on...

Winter 's here cold n Clear ! Swell Yes... Tide NO

Incredible winter weather ! ! Clear Cold nights. Clear Sunny days.
Some days this last week were 80 degrees.
Incredible winter weather ! !

 If only some swell were here.
I remember last November -December we had some really great ones roll through.
I recall some early mornings where only a handful of surfers would paddle out, and once we got out there we had to rest for a good while before even entertaining the idea of dropping down.
Having to choose your waves carefully. Nice heart pounding ones. Big off shore sprays coming over the tops and backs of the faces sounding like a rain storm splashing the water.
I am wanting those water conditions now.
I feel like I could surf those bigger waves better than last year.....
However....
The last 2 days of surfing haven't been so good good for me in that the tide has prevented any of the existing swell to have shape. It has been close outs with occasional open faces.
 On Saturday I mistakenly chose to take the first pre set waves that showed and seemingly missed the set waves that rolled through.
There were a couple that I could have turned on during the paddle back out, but those would have been sketchy for me.( at least in my head I was fearful of missing the drop due to being too deep and being tired. )
I am not good at the "catch a wave, then paddle out and turn on a big wave immediately, scenario, and I regret this.
I missed 2 larger set  waves that way yesterday.
It makes me question myself. Don't like that at all.
Today the tide was sooooo high at Dawnpatrol ( +6)  that there was just too much water to get a good one so I got out with a couple of shorts rides under the belt...good enough. Got out and froze my ass off getting dressed.
Because I stay in my trunks so much longer than most I really think some people enjoy seeing me cold....weird, but I get it.
 What most people don't get is that I don't do the trunks thing to make a statement,
I simply do it because I love the feeling of flowing water over my body and I don't like the restraints of any kind of garment, in or out of the water.
I have a lot of work ahead of me this year in the surf department.
Losing 30-40 pounds for starts. Exiting my waves. Surfing more   at least 150 time instead of this years 100.
Good bye 2013
 Hello  2014 and the hope of all that comes with that

Spectacular December Sunset in the water

My trunks came off in the 3rd week of November, @,@and gave way to the dammed full 3/2
Had a Sunday ( probably surf #90 ) 11 24 13where I think I got 15 waves or more to myself at the reef.

A fellow Dawn Patroler, Mike got a lot as well
 Just us 2 out on this beautiful, glassy, clear, and empty Sunday morning.

I got so stoked on these little waves, it was cool.
 The other night, after work ( Dec. 2) , I put on my trunks again and ran into the water,
It was cold, but so reviving, yes, reviving.
In trunks under the most spectacular Sunset in December

These pictures were taken, for the most part in the DARK, after it was all over,  and they don't begin to do justice to what I was witness to .
That sunset was in full spectacle and changing by the minute for what seemed to be an hour.
I loved it.
When I found other surfers I know had experienced the same thing I got even more stoked.

So THANKFUL
So very grateful..

Im a great Surfer.....whoa, Huh?

Hah  # 78
No, of course I am NOT a great surfer. But of course I aspire to be good, and to improve, always.
Am I stoked?
Hell yes, I am STOKED  !

I am improving. Yep .
What is astounding  is that the process takes so long, at least for me.
I have gotten a few really nice critiques/compliments over the last days. THANKS to those that do this.
It keeps ya goin' !
The waves were good this morning and the crowds were way less than the day before thanks to a party that most of the " locals " attended.
A really good day of surfing....
I'll take it   as always

surf on..

Wow there ARE ~ ~ ~ W ~ A ~ V ~ E ~ S ~ ~ ~

 # 77 After a month of flat or really small surf mostly we all get a push from mother O.

A clean, strong 545am push for me today.
Glassy, foggy, and un-used to anything over my knees in quite some time,
The Dawn Patrol ( about 5 of us in total ) set out to the reef and the houses.
I was walking towards the reef with my friend Terry,as it was going off, and decided to stop short and surf houses instead with Mike.
So walking too far past the houses paddle out channel I think... meh, its no big deal, and paddle out.
It's been so long with out waves that I forgot you shouldn't paddle out there really as there is no channel. So I get worked a bit in W A V E S.... surprise. A GREAT SURPRISE
Made it out and then got the fastest wave Ive had in a long time. A real long time.
F u n ! !
Got a few more then it got a bit crowded by 7am > the second shift showed up about an hour early today...Can't blame 'em I suppose.

So I got out and at right about the perfect time too.
Had a really good surfer I admire greatly paddle up to me after a wave and in a really stoked way congratulate me on a great ride. I love that ! It is so rare I ever get THAT !
Made my day.

A really good morning
So glad to be on some waves with some juice again.
Super stoked !

Surf, Sit Down (on that board), and Shut up #75

This week I was fortunate enough to grab 3 days off after the Labor Day Holiday.
Wed,Thurs, and Friday, and get back to surfing with my son, Jason.

He reminded me (again) that I have no exit skill or even strategy after I finish a wave.

Basically for 10 years,
 I have been riding a wave to its ( or my own ) conclusion and then stepping, shooting, or otherwise JF Kooking off the board.
Ugly for sure. Definitely subtracts most any style points I can rack up during a ride
I've  known it but never cared, save a handful of times , to try to correct that.
So with my son's encouragement I will work on this in earnest. 
Well in the last four days of surfing I have at least sat down on the board at the end of the ride probably 30% after all waves I've stood on.
Doesn't sound like much, but wow, it is a lot better.

Mostly flat again these last days,1-3's, but the conditions,  weather and water have been insanely good for surfing.
I have loved surfing for days in a row and with my boy.
 Keeps me fired up and STOKED despite some very funky other aspects in my life.
 So for me it's gonna be SURF, SIT DOWN,  SHUT UP

I'm stoked

surf on...

69 is Devine.... been waiting 3 weeks for some, and

 session # 69 of the year comes through.
 After 3 weeks of very small surf...ankle to knee surf, we get a swell in the water on
LABOR DAY WEEKEND, crowds too, but none-the-less a fun sized swell.

Friday night after a, well,  a week of workstration, I am alone at home and decide to "go out you fool".
 It was 100 degrees and the water was probably 70. Humidity at 90 I would say
Despite the high tide there were a few bouncy waves to ride. Bouncy from the water rebounding off the cliff at the reef. The kind of waves that jack up with the reverse swell then the wave takes you on a little elevator ride up and down until finally it breaks. Like a rodeo, really.
Anyways the relief and release form the work week was so very much appreciated by myself that I got really stoked about the promised swell and end of the West Coast August Drought.
Saturday morning I arrive at Terramar at  Zero Dark Thirty to a full parking area. Wow.
So I trunk up and go right to the reef as its actually breaking there...
W A V E S are again in San Diego after virtually nothing for so  long. I mean really I am driven to "the reef" (without hesitation) from drought conditions for so long.
Most of the time at the reef the better surfers get most of the waves.
Now I love to surf but I know my abilities and although I over step them, rather frequently too I hope, in an effort to improve and aspire to my dreams of surfing, I am realistic enough to realize, well the reality of the situation. Which is why I choose to surf north of the reef most always.
The wave is less critical and certainly the people who surf there at " the houses" are less critical as well.
 Anyways this Saturday like a starving Hyena I venture straight into the pride of Lyons and guess what?
They were all in seemingly THE WRONG SPOT
I was evidently in THE RIGHT SPOT !!
Yay me !
It was like
Bill 12  
Reef PRO's 2   and there were about 20 reef PRO's by 630am
Ha
Had a good reef day.
This great day carried over into Sunday and Monday even though my count dropped dramatically.
Still was super stoked
Still am super stoked
Lost my reef inhibitions finally
Poof !

GREAT LABOR DAY WEEKEND SURF
despite crowds
GREAT

Saturdays super small Surfing Safari..... F U N ! ! # 64 sometimes good things come in small packages

Got in at 0530 with only 2 others
So flat
So quiet.

So Summer
Maybe some of the highest part of  peaks were waist or shoulder high.
Most were knee or under as I see it.
Got one then headed to the reef as houses was just too micro.
Saw Dwayne and Bill get a few knee highs so I said yeah ok
Got there and immediately glided into a nice left with a knee high face that just kinda went on.
This new board can glide so softly in smaller stuff and catches them by itself .
 I can move it around also.
I'm liking it !
Deebs came over and we had a good talk and then a few more rolled in. It was so glassy and calm the you could just paddle, stop and glide then pick up the swell. The little shoulders would bowl around slightly and these sweet micro faces would just glide ya along to the beach. We were splitting singles going left and right 
 Front and front
 It was really super FUN Super Small and peaceful
Us four and some little gliders
 Great considering no one else choose to go out at Dawn Patrol. It just looked too small
 Surf on

 
 

Sunday July 14, 2013 #'s 55 and 56. A two-fer

How often do you get to surf

Terramar beach,Carlsbad, California USA

A L O N E ?

 #55 Nobody on the cliff. Nobody on the beach. 

Nobody in the water,

except I

Due to a road closure for a triathlon, I parked a side street and walked into the dark sea.

Well, I do believe another Bill was in the water down at the reef.
It may as well have been a reef 2000 miles away as I couldn't see or hear anything.
I surfed some nice waves in solitude and with out concern for a single thing.
I could hear my board in the water on each wave.
The channels to the fin make a pleasing sound when the board is moving fast and I'm turning.
This new board facilitates my turning.

A great experience this morning !

#56 Sunday part deux

My son and I went out at 3pm in the broad, bright daylight.

Went to the reef out of necessity ( size can matter )

I caught a nice reef wave amongst 25 others in the line up from outside to in.

Kinda like running an obstacle course.

Jason and I caught our wave in together , only to be hopped and snaked by the PRO's at the reef.

Still, a great day together in the water together for "us".

 "Us"
That's what started the whole thing.

A GREAT DAY INDEED !

Surf number 54

0500 Super glassy

 

FUN ! !

Smaller at houses than reef , but.....surfed solo for maybe 20 minutes  and had some nice

LONG face rides into the beach. Seems like since the sand redistribution last year that there is a reform on the inside that's fun.

Still getting used to the differences on the new board,

Moved the fin up an inch and I believe I like it better all the way back

A new swell coming on Wed, Eve inspired me to request

this coming Thurs and Fri. off.

I look forward to riding this board in a powerful wave.

As of now it seems a bit slow compared to the big blue and yellow,

I need to feel some power under and behind it.

                                                               

4th of July ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ Fifty first surf of the year

Bang !

My wonderful board of 7 or 8 years has split open right down the middle.
Filled with " STUFF"
I cut it open and its draining and drying.
Many specialists say just " let her go man ", but it's hard, I mean what if my wife did that when I was going thru dire straits ?

Here's what I found after years of searching for the inevitable replacement board.

 THURSDAY The Fourth of July, #51  was super small and I found I could get into a few of those in a very different way then when on the other board. This board I can paddle, let up, and let the board glide into position and tell me when to stand. That is something I could never do before and it was profoundly different and affects me in a very good way.....Yay !I choose to stay away from friends and concentrate on the board and the wave more. Got out in 2 hours and maybe 10 or so waves ridden,,, small and weak waves but caught and ridden none the less.

SATURDAY  # 52 in at 5 am alone for 30 minutes in the bigger glass. Got many rides on knee high shoulders.

The reef was waist and above, however I stayed away as to maximize the amount of waves to get on my new board. It was good !

SUNDAY, #53 got in first and was joined by my DP buddies right away.

Waves not as potent but I got more delayed takeoffs and got to feel the board under me a bit more.

I am very STOKED on this board.

Was super anxious about it and am now feeling super stoked about it.

Swami's Surfing on Summer Solstice

Sweet ! 

First day of Summer !

I always request this day off

Bingo 

Got in a double surf on my favorite day, in perfect weather!
#45

Swami's swell conditions weren't sooo great, but

I did get to surf with my favorite surf buddy,Jason !

Laurie came too and we had a great beach day in the warm waters and sun.

Got some nice peaky drops and shoulders.

Did my Glad to get that outta the way kooky sled ride.

Then got a handful of nice stuff. So did my son.

Hope he knows how proud of him I am !

I have only surfed Swami's 4 times before.

I can say this.

The line up has a great vibe to it.

NICE DAY !

You-ness, Me-ness, Us-ness, We-nes,..... sickness ? Nah !

As we share the water we are a perfect mirror image

Almost an exact match
Old, beat up, disaster surgeries, stitched back together, and almost functional

Most notably however , we love the water and can still do it.

surf on...

So.Cal. Big South Surfing Swell or bust

The much anticipated Big South shows up.......  so selectively
Today, session 42, was a good one for me. Needed it !

THIS is probably the smallest wave of this day

(#42 of the year 2013 ?  a pitiful number really )
0510AM

This swell was coming in 16 second intervals at about 205 degrees and the sets were all there were.
It was glassy, calm and flat as a lake in between head high sets.

Got a nice long left shoulder all glassy and kinda fast.
Got a Big Drop to the right that formed a great head high wall that I sped down
marveling at the speed and size of the wave the whole way.
That one put a big  shit eatin' grin on my face.
Dropped a big close out to the bottom then got lunch served up
( later in the morning, while bending down to pick up and load my board into the car, about a half of a water glass of warm sea water poured out of one nostril, mmmmmmmm !)
The reef was getting it in spades, a lot of close outs but so big and THUNDERING
I'm glad I stayed at the houses today .
Only 5 people to the reefs 20 at 545am
I am riding the white board now that the big blue has been given a death sentence by Ding King
Once I am up on it I can move it better. Once I am up she's good.
Getting up is a bit harder but I'm getting it.
Yesterday I snuck out at 510 am to sneak in a pre work surf.
I rarely get pissed surfing but I got pissed yesterday.
Went to the reef knowing I had about 1 hour in the water the rush off to work.
20 people there.
Finally get a left and right as I stand a shorter board comes from the inside and makes the wave I'm on.
Yeah happens everywhere but this one got to me because, well, it did.
After polling a dawn patrol buddy, I find out what I suspected, and that was " well he was closest to the peak.
Blah blah blah, yada yada yada, I give him, the snake,  the full finger and go, pissed.
So
I completely snake my dawn patrol buddies parking spot this morning and laughed my ass off over it.
As I slid into the spot( just like that snake did to me yesterday at the reef ) I heard this AAAAHHHHHH!!!!!
then he lit his wheels up in reverse and backed down the road the wrong way into a spot .
I thought I was gonna bust a gut.
I am a very bad man.

Surf on

#'s 36,35,34,33,32 Surfs of the year or sum such ting

 #36 Wow  Today ( Wednesday 5/15/13 ) after work and in the water at  5PM
Its my fifth day in a row ~!  This is a good, no, GREAT thing !
Board in the car and right after the job I just hit it...
Trunks, SUNSHINE (something this Dawn Patroler isn't used to seeing) and a few waves.
I have decided to take my long"est" board in for surgery, major stuff. More on that later.
So I am revisiting an old flame, slender and faster and I have barely discovered her sweet spot.
Plan to do a lot more discovering.
This has been a rebirth for me..... I forgot how great it is going from work to surf without going home first.
VERY CLEANSING.
#35
Tuesday after work I felt like I was surfing my 3@ board a little better. Still Great to get out right after work. It gives me hope.
#34 Monday I decide to start going out after work to get used to a new ( old ) board while my big board is in PRE-OP > I hear there is a big swell coming next week and want to prepare for it as best as I can so
I intend to get in as many as I can.
Waves are good-ish but I am not so good-ish.
Still it beats about anything else.
#33 Sunday was at the reef with only DP crew.
Got a few but not a lot. It was fun
#32
Saturday went to the reef with only a couple people. Slipped into some rights.
Usually others forgo the rights for the bowley lefts there, but..... there are a few who go right there now cutting into my once very good odds( for the Reef )

#31..Last Sat., May 4th.I put on a little show

Dawn Patrol with a cold breeze, 

chop,

 me in trunks,...... puttin' on a show,

 A KOOK SHOW

Yep

 

K O O K

Lastly Last Weekend #'s 28 29 30

Feelin' like summer yet?
I am !
Anyways

Last Sat was not all that. Got some and got out.,
At this writing 1 week later ,
I truthfully don't recall it.  I am 57.  
Uh oh.
Last Sun, a bit more fun.
Was at the reef and only the Dawn Patrol was there, I think...hmmm

OK...... LAST NIGHT WAS FUN  as in I was surfing kinda  "funny " but still fun.
Friday night and the swell and  warm 85 degree off shores  were all supposed to be there....

WELL  they were their, and then there was the tide .
Friday came at the end of a rough week at work. More so than usual.
TRUNKS super glass and very warm ( 65) water?
Nothing like Grinding away at work
while there is a nice swell going on. ( Thurs-Fri.)

Any way it was great to get out on a weeknight and wash the work week away.
I put on a show for those that were around to see me bouncing in the high tide.
Laurie is up at Oregon for a week.

Glad to have got out on a week night .......

# 27 SUNDAY A-OK

Now that was really fun !
In at 6am with super glass. The reef was showing some sets that looked chest high or better.
Fellow Dawn Patroler Mike headed there immediately. I choose to stay behind and see if I could pick off waist high peaks with knee high shoulders.

This worked for me today AND I really needed that.
In that first half hour in solitude I had many mellow glides to the right .

I am beginning to really like this type of wave. Especially the solitude and not having to
 wait and choose, it is nicer to pick and choose.
Some others came out and I enjoyed their company from a distance and we all caught some.
I got out of my wetsuit and into my trunks for some more sensuous fun
And Then... AND THEN.... AND THEN......!
A couple of really nice chest high and better sets came all the way over from the reef and through the houses spot where we were.
Nice glassy chest highs....
super sweet...
perfect finish to a super Sunday morning surf !

THANK YOU ! !