Monday , more, more please. Thank you !!!

Monday Swell.........................Monday garden.

This swell has been nice. This swell has aloha.

"THE SOUTH" is here alright, though it does require patience, at least when Surfing Terra Mar. Since my set back I have only dreamed of dropping down big faces, in warm water, but in the last month my dreams have come true. I can. I do. I will. Made some good drops today. Got a couple of nice shoulders. My shoulders and back are sore , but in a good way.
This is what surfing is about for me and some of my closest friends.
Slipping through an all encompassing, silky,blue green warmth. Life everywhere around you.
All the senses are on full alert,and in full use, every one of 'em.
Sight, smell, touch, taste. Sound, thought, cunning. Being a hunter,being social, being primal, competition, fear, elation, exhilaration.
Joy, envy, pride,anticipation,etc. etc fill in the rest.
It just goes on and on if you let it.
It is so amazing.
I know this is very, well ,very something that may be thought of as over the top.
You know what though, it's not. It is exactly that and much more.
It is the most amazing of things. To receive this gift is the best thing.

I love the stoke. The ocean and it's power and beauty.

I am lost in it.
I am found in it.

surf on

Sunday night....... not too shabby

As promised a return to the reef for Sunday PM.
As I was ready to paddle out a large 7 wave outside set came crashing in. It was impressive.
Stoked, I got on the board and put myself to the far south of the break hoping to avoid the 4-5 person take offs on the left side of the peak.
After 15 minuets an outside set came,each wave bigger and breaking 5 yards further out than it's predecessor. On the 4th or 5th I turned and picked up a peak and a right. Several people on the inside but I stayed high and fast and the shoulder held.
Having replaced the 10' Standard FU fin with Daves 7" cutaway and side bites, the board was much more responsive than usual but still held me in on the face of some of the more powerful rides. I am really liking the different fin config's.
My right tonight was borderline epic and
I'm a happy boy ....

Surf on...... enjoy this nice swell and the warm ocean ! !

Sunday AM was better

After the blown out Saturday night surf (was still fun)
Sunday morning panned out just like I thought except for the 60 people in the water part.

Very glassy and trunkable. Spaced apart long interval biggish swell.
Dave got me up and there early enough to where we each caught some long fun lefts, some rights, and some steep, big drops as well.

Then the stampede came and things got a little dangerous on the big stuff, so after 2 hours we were out and are hopeful for the evening session with no wind and no peeps.
We will see.

All and all it was just what the Doctor ordered.

surf on...

S-a-tur-day ...... night !

Sat. night THE SOUTH swell shows up, as well as some blossoms at home.
Sat morn all dressed up and no where to surf.
Hopes were high but no real swell except for a very blown, wall-o-junk at Tammy, with 20 surfers all not on it, but trying.

W E N T H O M E
I almost NEVER GO HOME...

Nice day with Laurie and Lori and Geila. Saw Jason at work, which gives me pleasure to see my son working his way into his own life.
Went back out at 5pm and the swell was showing much better now. Dave and I had a great exercise, caught a few good keepers each, meeting out there @ 6 Sun morn.
IF THE WIND STAYS AWAY
IT'S GONNA BE GOOD ! ! !

Stoke on ! ....

Mornin' there Guillermo

Woke up ...got outta bed ...
looked out the window and scratched my head.....
Took a peek at the flowers... and had a cup.....
and looking up........ I noticed I was late
Headed out... to surf the glass...
ran with my board... across the grass....
Flopped into the sea..... all warm and green....
Got my first wave .....and went into a dream....
Ahhhhhhhhhhh......Ahhhhhhhh Ahhhhhh Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
Ahhhhh Ahhhh Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh
Ahhhhha Ahhhhh Ahhhhhhhhhhh
OK whatever that eh?
Spent 3 hours in, and saw the first swell from Guillermo.
Maybe go back for more if the wind stays off.
Sunday will be good too....
Maybe Jason and Emily will show up.

Nice, Nice, Nice
surf on...

Guillermo may be visiting on Saturday

Hoping to see a little south swell this weekend.
Guillermo may be peeking in your window.
Hope so !

Wax, rinse, repeat. Sun 08.09.09

IN at 6:45 am. Trunks. Cool, tropical, feel to the air.
Again not many people.
Perfect glass.
Fast got into a few lefts, and was feeling it right away. The swell was up from yesterday.
My board is performing very well with the smaller fin.
Really got into some nice fast ones, outside in, then would play on a few insides.
Got a little crowded and I got out. It was perfect

surf on...

Saturday 08.08.09

Saturday @6:45am. Looks weak and scattered.
Dave showed in the lot and I changed the fin on my big stick.
Went from a stock 10" ( it's a a 10'3'board,the yellow ) to a stock 8".
Funny but the paddle out was not as easy as it looked to be. No one else was out cuz it was looking like no waves. After a 15 min. wait a set of Souths came through and met some WNW (?) wind swell and bam, I'm in the peak and get a screamin left.
The board is amazingly more responsive cause of the fin change, and I am moving her around like never before. Got a couple more lefts and a right, David did the same.
The sun appeared,the crowds appeared,the tide appeared, the waves and us disappeared.

As I write, the Sunday morning coffee is almost done and I'm headed back out to rinse and repeat ( if possible ).

surf on....

Was surfing last night any good?

( OK,Picture is not last night,but Jason showing nice form! )
The original blog name 5 years ago was " surfing with my son."
"We" totally learned this together almost lock step. We both have a lifetime of surfing to do, and learn about.
We went out last evening, walked down to the reef and paddled into what were the weirdest waves I have been in, in awhile. Lots of peaks, then disappearing peaks, some with shoulder, some without. Jason was more comfortable than I, as he was getting decent length of ride on either board (we switch). In several waves, I would get up and not stay in front of the wave enough, lose momentum, then the wave would pass under me and vanish.
That is a very frustrating wave for me.
When I do get the chance to surf with my son, which is not that often anymore, I like to surf well.
I like him to see me surf well for a lot of reasons, as a father would, specifically because of the circumstances of the last 2 years and my rather miraculous recovery and return to the ocean.
I remember 1 year ago, post surgical nightmare, bobbing in the ocean with my son, still unable to stand up, and getting really frustrated. I remember wanting to get a single wave so bad.
I remember looking around and seeing my son want me to just get a nice, single wave.
I then DID get up, on a wave, on my own....... for him. It was when I realized I wanted it more For him, more than for myself, I was able to go through the pain, and just do it.
It was one of the single, most proud moments of my life.
From that point we ( family, friends, and I ) realized I could heal
and make a run at getting back to good !
So, was surfing last night any good?
No, surfing last night, with Jason, was GREAT ! !

Reef was OK

Got off work @ 445pm A little stressful of a day.
In the water at 515, trunks, slight texture, slight current , slight waves.
Lots of bikini surfer girls.
Dave called me and left 3 messages that the water was "inviting".
Paddled over to reef looking for the Dave . Long paddle for some reason.
After an hour we started getting some with the tide push. Spent about 2 1/2 hours in the water and didn't want to get out .
Some dude said"we had "it" dialed in exclusively", which I did find really funny, but was cool. Very warm nice water. I love summer. It feels good.

Weekend ( post South Swell ) in Review 8.1.09

Saturday
In @ 7am , trunks, glassy, minimal waveage. Got about 3 waves and then paddled to the reef.
The reef peak is funny. Depending on the swell direction you paddle into it a different way.
Saturday was the First Time I have been the on the south of the north breaking peak, and as I sling shot myself from the south to the north, to my amazement, 3-4 people backed out of the wave for me.
First time that's happened there, for me!
This was a great thing as far as my surfing at the reef goes.

So it has led me to believe that I have been approaching this wave the wrong way, and probably pissing off a few each time. WAA WAA WAAAAAAAAAAAA

Sunday
In @ 630am, trunks, pure glass, minimal waveage but, better shape on some rare outside set waves !
Took me awhile to grab a few but got a nice left into about 4 inches of water, was gonna leave but decided to paddle out and south to the reef to get a nice exercise. Plus the reef was showing an occasional set or 2 every 10 minuets or so. Paddled right up and into a mellow bunch of long boarders, short boarders, yakers, SUPers. I do try to paddle right into the peak line up and make my face at least familiar there. Today, a big boy and a kayaker hit. It was almost bad but the yaker grabbed the long board before it could damage.
I got a couple rides, soft mush burgers then paddled hard back to the beach houses spot where I started.
Got a good work out and enjoyed the silky warmth of the ocean. No complaints.
Went to Del Mar horse races afterwards on Sat. with my sweetie
I'm fixing to go again today .
life is good ! ! Very, very good !

Sundays South Swell (part four 7.26.09 )

Same sorta cloud hanging over me again this morning.
This time my friend Dave would meet me at my house and we would ride in one vehicle ..
This is different.
Arrived at 7 and trunked it on out.
Waist high and inconsistent at the beach/houses spot.
5 Palms was p a c k e d with the fine Sunday staff, the reef was still a zoo.
It was so packed we stayed in the same spot and just caught few.
30 minuets later the Reef was starting up and getting some.
Another 15 minuets and the reef and 5 palms were getting head high + peaks and lines.
Tippy toed over there to talk with Aleta, sneaky guy.
Soon, the shift of swell had become apparent with the tide change, and things did get pretty good sized, though inconsistent.
I got what I needed ++. Really one of the nicest waves in several years (when you consider the surgical bullshit and recovery time) a long steep left. Up, down, all around,
toes close to the nose, finished with some good surfer girls giving this old bird some shakas, etc,etc.
That was nice.
Caught a few more very good sized, long rides, in epic conditions as far as water and weather go.


My good friend Dave got a lot of it too.
That did me good to see
as he---------------------------------------------------->
has been dry for a week or so.
Took a beautiful STEEP(go to drop, get pitched out and over pearl, wonder when my head is gonna go through my board , oh missed the board, good, when am I gonna hit the bottom cuz I am being driven down so far) one, but came out good.
I needed that too.
Met a surfer ( one I have watched and admired a few times before ) named Kenny.
He has been reading this blog. This is the first time I have met someone who met me FIRST through this "diary" I write. I was a bit taken back by this, as I never really expect to meet
anyone who reads this that way. I write some personal stuff in here and it was embarrassing at first, until we talked a while and I realized that we all experience the same stuff. the same pure passion, the STOKE.
All in all, I truly got just what I needed Sunday, on a lot of levels.....

surf on....

South Swell ( part three 07/25/09-7am )

I am Still awake on Friday night at 12am, that is extremely WEIRD
I get up at 630am, dress, hit it and I am .... sorta depressed??
I am missing my son and surfing with him.....
In the water @ 7am GLASS - low tide 3-5 footers, very inconsistent.
40 people in the water at houses
Look South to the reef
for that big South Wall o white.........4-6 footers, some thumping
60 people spread through the reef area.
Shoulda brought the big GER board.
Missed a few, others grabbed those and RODE em.... got thanked for missing one.
Got one and rode it in........ almost ZERO stoke, no reef, kinda bummed.

maybe tomorrow, or tonight,
this is very odd for me....

surf on...

South Swell ( part two 07/24/09 )

Friday,a tough day at work,a tough week at work.
I get home at 530pm, strip, hit it and I am in the water @ 550pm. .......4-6 footers, inconsistent.
Look South to the reef for that big South Wall o white.......................6-9 footers thumping'
45 min.later
Look South to the reef for that big South Wall o white ......................8-10 foot outsides with some serious "clean-up" and "clear-out" action going on.
Again I caught 3, 2 way outside, shoulder/head high fatties, that were nice long rides, and 1 ticket home.
The reef continued to build and pound.
gonna try to snag a reef wave tomorrow
to be continued.....

South Swell ( part one 07/23/09 )

3pm my son Jason is out with his bud's while I work, he reports 2 -3 footers nuthin special.
I get home at 530pm, strip, hit it and I am in the water @ 550pm. .......2 -3 footers nuthin special.
Look South to the reef for that big South Wall o white.......................2 -3 footers nuthin special.
45 min.later
Look South to the reef for that big South Wall o white and THERE IT IS.
Caught 3, way outside, shoulder/head high fatties, that were nice long rides, through all the bowling pins lined up on the inside.
The reef continued to build and pound.
Caught one in and was satisfied
to be continued.....

surf on

Tropical air, clear cool water, ahhhhhhhhhh

Mellow were the waves and crowd, with clear, refreshing water.
Waist to shoulder peaks. Reef grass swaying with the swell and visible when riding.
Got some both on Saturday and Sunday.
@ 1pm Sunday, I drove right to the reef at Igor's.
It was nice not to do dawn patrol as ALWAYS.
I dawn patrol for 2 reasons.
Morning glass.
Get home to spend time with Laurie.
Sunday was Glass all day and I had a good time at a different break. Enjoyed the mid day sun in the cool water, and checking out different surfers.

an important observation:
My son Jason has moved south to be very close to campus and his gal.
For Laurie, myself, and the regular surfers at Terramar,
he was conspicuously missing this weekend.
Another page is turning.
surf on

It's what we like

and.... it's headed to a Southern window in your neighborhood.

S W E L L~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ S T O K E

No Swell... oh well

Had a nice run of Souths and fun. The water is so warm and clear. Glassy knee high stuff to paddle for ,stand up, relax, move around a bit, and ride.

I love the feel of moving thru the clear blue-green, warm, glassy water, and being in the bright sun with a blue sky.

It just ALWAYS feels GOOD

surf on...

Like Children

Went out @ 5 pm not expecting much.
Headed straight to the reef after saying hi to Ted and Pat at houses.
They weren't getting any and of course, the reef was getting some.
GLASS, CLEAR,WARM WATER,
TRUNKS, zero wind.. beautiful ! ! !
Paddled right into the thick of things and caught 5 or 6 waist to chest highs right off the bat.
Then caught a shoulder peak, fought off two others and cruised that face to the beach and paddled right back.
Saw my friend Dave all alone midway inside getting a lot of 25 yard rides. A lot of em.
I left the pack and joined him for 2 more hours of wave after wave after wave.
We were super stoked and laughing like children for hours! ! !
I think I stood and rode 20 waves and so did Dave.
It was UN REAL !
It was PERFECTION !
Here is where I was just a short while back
http://surfing-terra-mar.blogspot.com/2008/09/my-1st-paddle-out-in-7-months-ahhhhh.html
Today I stood 20-30 times and paddled like a pro..... thanks all ! !
THANKS

surf on....

Reef (er) Madness

The South Swell ( as I predicted ) will be a dominate feature this summer season.
This means that for me and my friends the spot to be will be the reef.
This means that there will be serious competition for waves, at times.

This means I will rise to this challenge, and maintain my cool.

Big, outside, crystal clear,
warm, green-blue, glassy waves, reef (ers).

Got only a few rides yesterday during a high tide but was stoked.
Jason had a difficult time " tough day at the reef" yesterday.
He hasn't had a lot of surf time this season, and I was feelin' for him.
Today he called me at work to say he was headed back out ( get back on the horse) to the reef.
He reported many long rides fitting the conditions described above. I like it ! ! !
Didn't get out tonight, work prevented that.
Will get out tomorrow and paddle into the thick of things and get my fair share.
Enjoy the swell ! !
surf on...

Big Daddy's Day

My son knows what I like to do.

Surfing with him will always be my favorite thing to do.
Day started out cold and gray. So some Jason/Mom waffles brightened things up.Awhile later things ended up bright blue, warm, trunks, and a bit of a swell.
Surfed for hours. Afterwards Dave came home with us and we relaxed a bit. Then Jason,Laurie, and I all watched a nice blue ray together on my sons killer high def set up. Topped off the night with a root beer float and I'm one PROUD and HAPPY dad ! !

Happy fathers day to y'all, its a great thing being a dad and surfing with your son (children).

surf on....

A BIG South on Tuesday Night

A BIG South on Tuesday Night....perfect.
Got home after a San Digey meeting for work and the $2.00 Del Mar day traffic cost me about , well, 1 hour in traffic delays.
Looked at the Tam Cam and saw the big south lines. Hmmmm ..... hit it.
In @ 6pm and proceded to get shoulder high rides . To the south the reef was booming again, it really hasn't stopped for week ++.
I got mine and some fine rides there were.
My body is still healing, it has been 1 1/2 years now ! !
Have a ways to go.
Got complimented from strangers on some rides...WOW !
I am getting closer to good as far as recovery goes.
Stoked...YEAH IM STOKED
Who woulda thought......I didnt really , thank God for family and friends.
surf on....

More Reef man, More Reef

Went out today with a newly repaired spring suit that a bud...Birke Buddy.. told me how to fix.
This time I walked with Dan to the reef, after returning his shorty loaner from yesterday.
Surfer/Wave ratio was messed up.
Went to it but didn't compete with the Main peakers and thus didn't get the quality I wanted.
But I did get to chase Alita down the face of one.
She hopped me, kinda, I might not have made the section, I dunno,
but the view was good LoL.
Got about 5 right close-outs and 1 left.
Ah the reef...... many there get surly when the wave action slows. I just wasn't in the mood today, wish my son or Dave had been there, I get strength from them to handle that scene.

I love my wife.
I love my life, my son, and my family and friends.
I love to surf.
I love the water.
I love the sun.
I love being a surfer.
God, I Thank you ! ! ! ! ! !

Reefer Madness

The reef was in full swing this morning. Got out @ 630 and things were drained at the houses and the beach, but the reef just pounds on during the whole of last week and this morn.
Last night I never made it into the water....defective shorty zipper failed, and I wasn't in the mood to trunk.
Fixed the zipper( thought I did ).
Went out today, put on the shorty suit, and" voila" the whole zipper fell of broken.
A buddy, Dan, loaned me his shorty as he wanted to go full suit, repaying some wet suit help I offered him from a weekend prior.
I walked down with him and Chuck, but as they turned to paddle out I just kept walking to the reef.
I NEVER DO THAT !
Paddled out and immediately turned on one in the middle of 20 reefers. It was G O O D.
Good wave, but more so, Good for the HEAD and SPIRIT. I will admit I never got a MAIN peak but took off whenever I knew I could get one to myself, especially if I felt others wouldn't beat their section.
This paid off well. I got 6-8 really nice ones today, coulda done better and been more aggro, coulda done a lot worse and not have had any.

Might go back out tonight, waiting on a call,
well see

South Swell + Cosmic Weather x myself + a few friends = perma-grin

Wednesday 6/2/09
As promised a ( purple blobs from far away) south....was just beginning to show up.
No one out at the reef after work because tides were a bit high. The weather was perfectly cosmic. High, broken up clouds stretched across the sky. Warm sun beaming through the breaks in the ceiling. No wind on the water. Big thunderheads looking east, with that odd, warm, and yet contrasting lighting. Clear, warm water. Got some nice rights at the reef. Sometimes the big Slick stick is, well it's like cheating out there. It catches what many boards cannot. An advantage is good, and I will take that once in awhile.
I've earned it.
Saturday 6/6/09
High hopes.
After some bum weather Friday eve. which kept me at home , I was hoping the newly filled in South would be in full, GLASSY production early Saturday morning.
VERY EARLY, as we all have been somewhat starved for decent surf for weeks.
In @ 5:45am and the reef had 25 surfers on it.
I chose 5 palms and tween the reef, to the far south of the houses entry point.
It was the only place for solitude....and I know a secret about that spot that many forget.
Cosmic tropical looking weather again.
This time I was in a spot where I could hear no one else chattering.
I could hear many birds from the gardens on the shore.
The lighting and canopy were beautiful.
I could hear the reef tubing .
I was gifted nice glassy lefts AND rights. Got a full five O V E R!
I have never done that before. It was one of my very best performance days.
Ever !
I would not have expected to ever say that after 2/8/08.
Lots of surfers confirmed I wasn't dreaming.
N i c e !
Sunday 06/07/09
Hope was high but I knew the reality would be different.
6:45am and 50-60 people were where yesterday there were only 30.
Smaller all around. The reef was still banging, as were many boards.
It was 4-5 people take offs on each set wave, boards, asses and elbows flying until 1 would be left upright, then that person would get hopped. Repeat. Repeat.
I chose the same spot I enjoyed yesterday but.... everyone else did too.
Got 3 waves that were good. 3 were solo shots, amazingly.
@7:45 rode one in, poured some hot water on myself and got home.
An hour well spent.
I am being handed a big bonus in life. Thank you !

I see purple blobs, swirling around far away, so very far away.

It's Sunday 5:43 AM, raining and there is no surf to be spotted on any local cam, chart or anything that I can read about, at least none I can travel to.
I have the feeling that the reef will have a very weak knee high peak ,and I'm gonna go check it.

After last session
( a good one considering the last two weeks of swell ( or lack thereof )),
I am left craving surf.
I see purple blobs, swirling around far away, so very far away.
Bye

ANNOTATION: 8:00 am There were no waves and I went to swim laps at the gym, while pretending I was paddling into big surf

surf on...

It's been awhile..

Sunday.
Upon arriving@ 7AM, it was gray,cool with a breeze, minimal surf.
It was not what my friend Dave would describe to me as "inviting".
Lot's of regulars were suiting up, with big smiles and
story telling, coffee , and laughter. The typical weekend scene, but more crowded due to Memorial day.
I was hoping that my son and I would surf and (at least temporarily )forget some not so hot news concerning college we got just before going out that morning.
That, and Sundays dawn patrol never happened.
This news has dragged down our family's spirits collectively.
We parked, looked at the scene, then each other,
then left.
Bummer.
.......
Got a call from Dave at about 12 noon as he was headed up the coast.
He did say that the water now looked "inviting".
Jason and I headed out towards the ocean again.
This time it was warm, sunny, very little breeze, and actually a swell breaking at the beach and the Reef.
Trunks would be the attire, regardless of the temp.
As it turned out, it was perfect water temp.
I scored on this one.
I did lead us to the reef wave
I watched the reefers get wave after wave shoulder high south combos, said screw it and paddled over to and then directly into a pack of VERY GOOD SURFERS, as usual.
I was feeling good and confident after some great rides at the usual beach spot, and I wanted the big reef wave too, for us, regardless of the "vibe".
Got into a great peak and dropped, along with another.
I was in the perfect spot and he wasn't, though he tried to call me off. He then appeared to try to come around me but I cut towards him, he bailed and I continued on.
THERE ! ! I did it.
From that point on I could go for what I wanted,
for what was m i n e.
Got many more out there that day. Made my son proud. Dave had some good ones.
The water was clear enough to see the reef grass waving 10 feet under us, as we got long, fun shoulders after big drops. For me it was damn near perfection
I did a good thing. Hell, Laurie was even out for a walk to watch us for a change and she actually saw me on some waves of size.
We all walked back together, proud, tall, and stoked.
I was SUPER STOKED.
It's been awhile.

Anything better ????

IN the water @ 6 AM.
Super glass and warm water.
Tide moving up so maybe a push.
Shorty on.
Got a couple. Maybe 10?
Very quiet, mellow, and stomach-chest high peaks with some shoulder to em.
A little South, so the reefers were happy.
I chose to stay solo and it worked great !
I am really noticing physical improvements often now, and my surfing improves with that...
Out @ 7:15AM and directly to the gym
Went and swam laps, then right after a nice jacuzzi and shower.
Today was the first day I have been able to stretch like that in ......well... since the thing.
Home @ 8AM. Kiss my love "good morning"

Anything better????
Not really !
surf on..

Waist to~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Knees nice, long lefts, rights, and nose rides Please

This was most unexpected this morning, as it was inconsistent and fairly crowded.

I was to meet Dave, early. He parked way down the line and I took the numero uno spot, which was open.
Dave never paddled out.
I Paddled out into a group of 20 , although none of them my closest friends. I looked around, then quickly proceeded South at the dead end of that group, and WHAM... one came right to me. It's always kinda weird to have that happen in a lineup but..... I secretly love exactly that. Nice long glassy left past the whole line up. I called off a friend, "Squat", with a "Howdy neighbor"
I wouldn't be alone again this morning.This was fine considering everything. Paddled back out to compliments from many
( that's a rarity in this group ). Took a rest and deliberately passed on a couple. Saw an outsider and went for it, grabbed a right , a long one. Sweet. Did the long paddle back, got some looks and rested.
The next left was a shoulder peak with a pit and I positioned perfectly, moved forward on the big board and went flying, my best position on a wave in a long time. Called off a hopper and he said "where did you come from?", I replied "way the hell back there bro!"and continued on down the wave.
Many comments again about the speed I had, and some " I could have had that'(s)"
My final was a right and alone, Squat had gone left. This was a chest high shoulder, and I was positioned in the top 3/4 of the wave the whole ride. Just kinda dancing the nose of the board up past the lip and then down, repeat,repeat,repeat, floater, then rode it in to 1 foot of water. Stepped off and went home.
Perfection comes very rarely for me, and is always when I least expect it !

Got Some.... 2 WEEKDAYS in a row !! !!!!!!!! This is a good thing for me.

WED pm THURS pm
Took a shorter board to work each day, so no excuses. Got into some peaky steeper drops.
Very warm water, trunks totally and ZERO chill. glass, sweetness.
I felt normal for the first time in 1.2 years.
Came to a great realization.... something I have always known.
I want to, maybe, truly need to, surf a lot !

More later.....

surf on

Your brain calls but the body stalls.

Weird Waves this Sunday.
Probably, best described as inconsistent.
I would say the same about myself.
I got some. My best wave, and a nice one by others standards was cut too short while dodging insiders.
I enjoyed the time in the water. Things did play with my brain though, detracting from the experience.
Once again I am plagued by various pains related to events of over a year ago. These alter the way the body works for sure, especially in a "high performance" situation. Your brain calls but the body stalls.
No doubt I am in the position( once again) of having to drop 20 lbs. That 20lbs pushes out on the abdominal
scarring and incision sites,prior drain hole areas., etc,etc.
I worry and struggle to not plateau at
at a performance level that is less than before surgery(s). I HOPE that I will keep getting better at surfing, as well as at life.
There is a lot of work to do, I guess there always has been, and always will be..god willing.

surf on

Gnarly paddle

Today's paddle out was just what I needed....
kinda.
I am still uncomfortable ( scared ) with the thought of getting my
surgically DE enhanced body
"worked" over.
After about 15 minuets of paddling but not going anywhere, Jason, Dave, and I had a window and we made it out.


Once we recovered, I recall having the "perma grin" going for awhile. This was a result of "having made it stoke".
Occasional LARGE jacking then walled close outs would pass under me and this created an equal amount of "bigness" stoke.

I Love
the BIGness stoke !!

The waves were tough for us to get into, and delivered a beating for choosing the wrong ones.
I caught about 4 and was finally satisfied with the whole scene.
I could have done better a year ago,
but its not a year ago....
I did need a confidence shaker,
and a success, in exactly that order, and that's what I got.... friends and family, in the big surf with me, sun out, big waves, challenges met,
life is very, very, good.

surf on...,
I plan too !

Argh

Right now @ 6pm
I'm watching my ( sort-ta ) break pound a bunch a guys over and over on a live cam
(glassy bigger stuff)
I MISS GETTING POUNDED
I know that slightly south it may be real good, reeeeaaaaaal good.
Oh, chart says high tide and gettin higher, too high.
Soooooo oooooo oooooo oooooooo o I don't go.
C i r c u m s t a n c e s sucked it outta me.
Made me too late.
The tide
My battered, recovering body.
My brain says this and that.
I hate that...

tomorrow...
AARRRGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

Wetsuit OFF ...........Trunks ON

I love to paddle without a wetsuit on.
That is plain and simple.
There is something about it that just turns me on.
Being in the full sunshine, water flowing and splashing on, around and over you. Being thrust through the water by a powerful force.
Nothing pulling on your shoulders, neck, or anything else as you paddle.

I love it.

My son and I had a really fun time in the water yesterday, despite the fact that we barely caught any "waves". There just wasn't much ride opportunity yesterday. We did get a few, but we had a lot of laughs and fun. Laurie came down to watch ( of course, there was nothing wave wise to see ).
Naturally there were 2 or 3 really GOOD surfers there,
Chuck ( rules the place) and Rick,( Erick )
professes his style to be that of a "drunk monkey".
Truly great surfers can and do find anything and
make it look easy.............someday will come, at least I will continue to work for that day for me.
So fortunately my wife had something to watch as far as surfing goes while her husband and son struggled for less than ride able ( for us ) waves.

It was a great day, a great day for all. Find something everyday and appreciate it. It works !
surf on...

My intent is to go, go, and do it in my trunks!

Its 2 pm, I'm all hot and bothered.
I'm not particularly proud of myself this day, so I'm goin' for a purification session.
I'm leavin' now, with my trunks ON.
Goodbye sweetheart, maybe I'll see ya again, maybe not.

Check this blog out, "The Closer Walk" . I love the "localism" you tube that got posted there!

The Closer Walk

I thought the little fellow would be able to easily make that wave. Honestly Sir. .

Swell, from the south as predicted .
I have a gut feeling that we will be a lot more southern this year, of course I have nothing to base this on other than feeling.
My friends were getting out of the water as I arrived tonight after work,
I was told to not go to the reef as it was tough enough to work them a bit too much. So, for me, in my state of recovery, this would be too much. I agreed so I opted be "safe" and stay closer to Warms than Igor's.
That lasted about 45 minuets. I crept towards the reef, it was indeed thumping and looking like "swarmies" with 4-6 people per peak making the drops. I have become very patient as a result of my injuries and will wait. The secret to that is I am almost perma stoked every time I'm in the water. I LOVE that ! !
My BIG ONE came right to me and I worked IT ! I am soooooo faaaaar from being consistent, but I pumped and danced my 10'3' board up and down, from bottom to top, then, THEN......
made an almost perfect "roundhouse" and rode it into 6" of water and stepped off.
I LOVE THIS............. I am so thankful that I can surf after what happened.
I am so thankful for these days !

surf on...

Swell Wally, and I think it;s a Southy

God, what a beautiful morning in the sea, despite the religous snickerings

Today was warm, clear, glassy with some wave action. The low early AM tide had things drained out a bit but..... I got a few solitaire rides

How beautifully gorgeous can a day get ??
I was with a few friends, but we were not in the best wave spot...should have been further north towards
warm water jetty.
I find religious "tensions" sort of amusing.
Many people are not comfortable with talking to others concerning each others beliefs. I, for one, am fine with the notion that many believe different things and I don't mind outward celebration of these different beliefs. I think it's good as long as we don't fight over it.
HAPPY EASTER y'all, it's a good thing ! !

Tuesday, glad friends and waves showed up. needed a little redemption session, thanks!

Tuesday, I brought the board to work knowing the storm was coming and a swell was supposed to be there. Did a surf check on the way to a meeting
( endless meetings ) at work, and it was blown out and crap at a low tide 230pm.
Decided to go back anyways after meeting
( endless meetings) and still looked pretty bad.. but my mates were there and I promised so...
turned out to pick up, glass off and the disaster kid got some nice long rides up front on faces, and confidence back as well. Some needed compliments were doled out, and voila,
I'm feeling the stoke.
For some damn reason
( no one was over there for a change)
I paddled solo to the "reef" and caught a few nice ones in solitude. Thanked mother O and ALL and pulled out @ 745 pm as the storm came in.
surf on...

Sunday ..Glad my good friends were there!

Saturdays decent , although very short lived swell was good
Sunday was good cause my mates were there, son Jason ( sick though ), Pat and David.
The waves were crap and I surfed poorly enough to cause me to reflect on my abilities in a bad way.
I wonder if I will get where I want to be skill wise?
I felt robbed of my surfing progression by my 1 year set back due to a botched surgery and extraordinary bad luck.( see endless accounts of past posts)_


Hurt my self a bit,in this junk.

bah

Are there Sharks out there, or what............?

This is what I wanted to know, as I stood on the cliff,
looking out at lines of shoulder++'s rolling' in,
one after the other.
0700 4' high tide and dropping, clear, glassy, some offshore wind,
and almost everyone was standing on the cliff watching, un-suited up, except I.
They were saying it was too messed up and the paddle out wouldn't be good.
Very close together, hard to get into, then closed out walls, is what I ended up seeing.
I was told I "had to go now"by a Cop I know who surfs there( he's cool )
because I was already suited up, blah blah.blah. I said "oh hell yeah, I'm going", and went down to the beach. There, my head got the better of me. I stretched, and stretched, looking for someone to paddle out with.
Saw my buddy Pat up on the cliff.
We ended up paddling out together in a spot he took me to, and educated me on.
Made it out, a bit tired.
Only 10 people from Warms to the reefers.
Sweet, and on a Saturday morning....go freaking figure.
Although things were calming down there were big, steep, fatties that kept rolling thru.
Enough size, and now great conditions, that put a perma grin on me.
VERY STOKED about the paddle out and wave size.
LONG STORY SHORT......Pat got several.
That's Pat BELOW

I got THE only one I tried for, and took it in...................................................................................
It was big, fat, glassy, fast,and clear with shoulder.
I did it right and took it home.
Things are VERY GOOD
I AM STOKED.

surf on...........

Woulda, coulda, shoulda, didn't, damn it !

Bah
Sun., Mon., Tue., dry .

surf on...

Kooked out on "The Reef" oh my ! !

I have mental issues, this we ALL know.
The Reef(Igor's) messes wit the brain of I and I. Friday night I went out with my friends
Pat n Dave. I caught a few inbetween wistful glances south to the reef, where it always seems to break better. That place always shakes my confidence. So last night I thought I'm going there on Saturday.
I paddled over this morning and there were only 4-5 others on the peak, all of whom I knew, Pat and Chuck are bud's.
I rode a wave on my knees,
(could NOT stand) and actually laughed it off. That in itself is rare for me, to truly laugh at myself and not feel bad. So that was cool. Did a couple other kook outs and laughed those off as well. YDD would have had a field day with me today.

Did get some nice rides however and felt REALLY good about
"The" reef session.
Gonna go back again tomorrow and do it again,
This morning, in the water at the reef, after I stood on a "nice"drop and rode, Pat shook my hand and said"welcome back".
I know exactly what he meant by that.
Thanks Pat!! It's good to be back !

surf on...

Weirdooooooooooooooooooo

I had 2 meetings at work
from 1030-5pm .....weird
Paddle out was weird
Waves were weird.
Pat and Dave were out there ,
they were weird.
Waves approaching and
disappearing under you...weird
Pat and Dave got out and split....weird
I caught a weird wave in,
waved bye and split...weird.

Conclusion
I'm weird
very freaking weird.....
Im a weird-o.
I dont care-o
surf on weirdos
weird on surfos.......

It's OK to be Gray

Gray sky never agreed with me.
It irritates my eyes.
It bugs my brain. It keeps me in.
Gray sky,for me, is a basic bummer.
However,
I am not gonna let that stop me from going.
Surfing is one activity that takes my mind off it,
and "me".
It takes my mind off everything bad, no matter how bad.
It has been a good week for me.
Ive been in the water 4 of the last 6 days.
I hurt.... I may always hurt, so what.
I'm stoked again. Practiced cross stepping most of the session until my friend Eileen showed up in the water. Nice surprise. A friend from "the past" in a way. She surfs well and chooses her words. It was good to surf with her for a bit. Waves were few between but none the less, a surf is a surf, is a surf, and I ALWAYS come out washed "clean". My goal now will be to get 200 sessions in, for the 2010 year. Work will conspire against me, but I will find a way. I have to really, as I have heard often in the last few days, that "surfers don't really make the choice, the choice is made for them." This is sooooo true !

surf on..... I think a new swell approaches.

Are things gettin better ? My board is treating me real good. A hug is in order !

Looks a little, well, it is what it is. Haha.

Got outta work VERY late.
Shoulda been out @ 4:45
Got out @ 5:30. Not a big deal unless its 70 degrees, glassy AND there is a swell.
Jammed home, shoulda brought the board(duh),
looked at the cam and dove into the wetsuit,grabbed a cup-a-joe and split.
Got there @ 6:15pm and "ran" to the water.
Got a few, not as big as Sunday for sure but conditions were GREAT ! Then on the last wave after the sun had set, I crossed stepped up the board. No flailing arms, no shuffle, had both feet equally in the last foot of the nose, for TIME.
Did a dip with a left foot extension to the end of the board and kept on it. HaHaHa all the way in.
Wife is beautiful. Life is beautiful.
God and nature are smiling on me right now.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~B E A U T I F U L ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Just EXACTLY what I needed ! ! ! ! Perfect !

Saturday morning was ok.... I didn't get many waves and, well, it was ok.
Sat.,night I dreamt of huge walls of green.Then came Sunday morning,
and it was blown out at 0700.
Made a call or two and it was described as victory at sea.
Cameras showed "kinda crappy".
Like the big little kid I am, I was outwardly disappointed. Ceilings of grayness were there all morning into early afternoon, this depressed me.
THEN...as promised,Dave called and said" looks pretty good, little texture and shoulder high stuff". After some grumbling, I asked Jason to go with me and of course he says sure.
Got in @ 330 pm with a glass off and clean up from out side shoulder - ++ sets of big fat crumblers . The clouds gave way to pure blue skies and warm sunshine. 50 -100 yards south, hollow overheads were seen and HEARD,
the kind sound that makes you tingle, air being forced thru and over the glassy water!
Jason, Dave and I,
got many waves with steep drops and long shoulder rides.
I haven't really had a "perma grin" like that in....
well in a year to the day.
Exactly one year ago I "rolled " out of the hospital,
after spending a month there in a state of near death.
One year ago today I came home.
One year ago I started out barely able to make a lap around my house with 3 bulb drains hanging out of my abdomen sucking vileness out of my body, a wound vac machine sucking equally horrid stuff from a gaping un-stichable, 12 cut in my abdomen.
I had a bag attached to my stomach to poo into.
I don't think I "believed" I would ever surf again, really.
I wanted to, and was determined to "achieve " this goal but,
I really didn't believe I would ever surf like I just did, again, in my life, ever.
Exactly one year ago, all there was was the most tiny spark of stoke left in my life.
Yesterday was MIRACULOUS actually ! !
I am forever grateful to ALL !
GOD, MOTHER OCEAN, Family and friends, all ! !

Speakin of STOKE

I am soooooo Stoked about Daylight Savings time coming this Sunday.
Sun is setting at 7 PM.
N O W I can take the board to work and get in 2 hours afterward
D A I L Y

Better than......(part deux)

OK now I'm back login' to last weekend.
Went out on Saturday( Jason's Birthday ) 2/28/09 and didn't get anything again. Jason was working and I was not feeling it. Went the following Sunday and ran into some folks I haven't been with in the water for awhile . It was very satisfying to paddle out and turn on the first outside set and get it on. Got some hoots and hollers( from some very fine Wahine's ) then paddled and got a few more. Was very fun. Just what an old, beat up dude needed.
Pat (in the Hat ) was there and that was the first time he's seen me get up real, since all the bullshit , so that was cool.
Below is Pat (in the Hat) in a victory at sea day,
last may......something I really look forward to doing with him again, if....nah...WHEN my body allows.

Better than...

<------Dave ( in glasses) and I

. Back log 2 Fridays back I was to meet my son after work for a sunset surf. I was late getting out of work and felt pressure to have a great surf. That always sets me up for failure. GREAT EXPECTATIONS.
I didn't get a single
(albeit, poor shape and conditions, LoL)
wave.
I just bobbed in the water beside myself with dissatisfaction. Unfortunately, my son was subjected to this behavior from me, however subtle my mood was.
I can count on a single hand the times I have felt like this in the water. That just doesn't happen, thankfully.
I am no doubt "changed" from the events of the year, both physically and spiritually. It is my mission to get back to as close to good as I can. I make progress and slide back as well in both areas. This is to be expected for me now. Steps forward and slides backwards. I guess this is the natural progression of things in my circunstance. I will say that I am pleased that my body is getting better, stronger, and responding to my challenges. I do it for my surfing, myself, but mostly for my wife Laurie, my son Jason, my other family and friends like Dave, Michelle, and Lori.
The next day I went out with Dave while my son went to work.
This next morning I stood on most every wave I wanted and had a very "normal" surf, which was GREAT ! ! I seem to get what I need right when I need it most. This keeps me goin on, keeps a little spark within my soul, something to stoke up.
It was good to move on the faces, get up without thinking about it.

On a Summer's Day in the dead of Winter

On a summers day in the dead of winter,
Saturday, Laurie, my loving wife and partner saw me do something that made her feel very good.
She saw me stand on 4 waves and ride em.
(After my last surf event ( oh PLEASE, see it below) I figured all very well maybe anti-climatic.This was better.)
It was a proud moment for me. I told her " see, I can do it, I wasn't sure if I really would ever be able to that again. It has been a year almost( Feb 8Th ) since I have been able to do what I love. Laurie and I have worked hard and suffered much. There is STILL a long way to go. But not as long, not as far, and I know now that it can , and will be done.

surf on...............

There are no words to really describe yesterday's session, I will, however, give it a shot.

With the talk of the "swell" coming I was both stoked and depressed.
1) Another opportunity to actually surf
( as in what I used to do before, my now year long, post surgical nightmarish reality).
2) Another opportunity for the bitter reality of struggling for waves (and stoke) only to stand for 1 second and fall in pain, or worse not stand at all.
So it was with great reluctance that I went out with my son Jason and his new surfing friend Todd.
Oh yeah, there was a fat swell with long intervals and it looked do-able for me.
With my sons help on timing the paddle out I made it out ok. Beautiful, warm, sunny, glassy and cool water. PERFECT, but........
I paddled for about 5 waves during an hour period, and couldn't get anything.
Backed out of some late ( for me ) take offs. But did see my son catch an amazing long, fat right, where he used his wave/ride knowledge to outsmart a closed out section to get on the continuing shoulder and got one of those 50 yard face rides.
THAT put a smile on my face.
My sons friend was making some late great takeoffs.
THAT put a smile on my face.
My best friend Dave came out, we said our howdy's and he asked if I had gotten anything to which I gave the standard "nope".
At some point I usually say a prayer to God, Jesus, and mother ocean
to send me one where I can get up and "surf" as I once used to,
before the F*#* storm happened.
NOPE, nothing'
I then realized that my son truly needed to see his dad get on as he was once able to do.
Again I said my prayer to the powers that are EXCEPT I said it for Jason to see his dad DO-IT.
B A M
I paddled for a 4-5 foot fatty, stood, dropped, surfed the face, moving the board up and down, got out in front of the close out, cut right and
picked up the reform( which was considerable) and rode it all the way in.
After that I broke down in an emotional rush like I have never felt before in perhaps my 50 some years of life.
It was an amazing day for my friends and my son, and myself. SIMPLY AMAZING ! ! !

surf on....

Why did I Paddle out in a 7.05 high tide ???????????? Cuz I can!

Had a really poor day at life yesterday, work had really got to me and I was blah blah blah blah blahing. I haven't stood up on a board in 2.5 months. I caught 4 or five waves that last time and hurt my gut and back enough to send me to the Dr and put fear into me about my abdominal issues.
I've had people call me over the last months and ask to go out and actually been so pissed and filled with self pity that I've thrown the phone, cursing. The ocean calls me every day. I pine away for it.

Last night I said screw all of it.

This morning at 8am, I Paddled into a 7 foot tide out to some channel marking buoys.
Glassy, very cold, clear water cool 60 degree air and warm sun.
By the time I reached the buoy I was exhausted, that was a mistake for sure as the tide had turned to going out and off shores started, Anyways, I sat face to face with a big bull seal and his harem sitting on buoy # 4 and he got real pissy about that, so I went back in. My arms were noodles after that but did STAND UP ON A NICE SWELL (attempted a bottom turn) then fell off, and crawled out to the beach.
That was a good thing ! ! ! A very good thing!
So... for now.... I AM S T O K E D again, finally.
surf on

My son and his NNW @ S.Tammy awhile ago.... one of my favorite sets ! !

May you all feel it..

Goodwill towards man

Thanks for Heaven and Earth

Happy holidays to all

surf on...

Would you say it calls to you ? ?

It does to me. The ocean calls to me. I've heard others say it in print, on screen and in person.
Isn't that way cool. That the Ocean calls to us in the way it does.
Sounds screwy right ?
No.
Jason was hearing it. A favorite photo from Big Wed 12/21/05
P.S. My bad... that photo is from 12/21/05...........
hmm first day of Winter too !
It was on that day that I knew I wanted to be on a 15-20 foot wave...,
that changed who I was. It was that day that I became so permanently stoked
...

Winter Waves Today

After hearing all that talk of Gray and cold I went out this morning. Put on the suit for the first time. Cold water and air felt good. Saw Chuck and Dan get some sweet ones from outside in.
Paddled out no problems.
Paddled for about 5 waves with my friends, but the abdominal wounds were yelling at me so no stand ups today.
People were askin about my son Jason and I was missin' him out there today.
Still got stoked as some shoulder highs came through.
Good Day... no pain right now, just afterglow. I figure it'll be about a year
until I can actually "surf" again. Hell...... that's a blink of an eye really, the way time has been going for me.
I'm a HAPPY BOY...I'm a HAPPY BOY.... hey init great when things are going yer way
hey hey.......ba.. rump bump bump bada bada ba, hubba hubba hubba hubba hubba.

surf on...

WoW Just beautiful... All my friends were out

Despite 60 people spread between the beach and the reef proper... today my experience was incredible.
Didn't stand up once. Too many freakin people for my battered body to compete with.
Did see folks I haven't seen in.... well since the Disaster ( surgery).
Rick ( the drunk monkey ), Glen ( has chunks of guys like me in his stool)
Ted( hair is still perfect and dry), Paul, Paul ( snake guy), Steve,
Pat (in the Hat), Aleta, Perry, Bobby, it was like a welcome home party for me.
Solitary, lone wolf me, saying howdy and getting welcome backs from all these fine surfers.
Pure glass, sunny,clear,warm, bros and the fine wahinis', PERFECT

thank you all....... ALL of ya

surf on ...

It has been 14 days since...

I got worked 2 weeks ago..... my abdominal scarring was micro torn and something crappy happened to the mess S-1,L-5,L-4,L-3 (rods, screws,misplaced plastic spacers and erroneous bone fusion) that is now my back, when I was pitched off a closed out 4 footer 0n the inside.
Very disappointing that just THAT has hurt so long.....

I continue to dream of dropping down a 15 footer in my life.
If I think of it a certain way I cry. If I think that this will not happen now because of this botched up surgery and all that has come to pass, I get very sad and very pissed !
This is my dream, this is my passion, this is what I must try to achieve.
I will find my way to it, I will find my way there !

I intend to paddle out this Saturday and stand again.
I will surf on...