Pinch me, I'm dreamin'

2 and 1/2 years back
I was hospitalized for 40 days.
I nearly died several times and was almost, or felt dead for 30 of those 40 days.
While conscious I saw my wife Laurie, son Jason, some family, and a couple friends come and go.
Made a best friend in there, though we knew each other from Terramar
All this as I would enter and leave consciousness.

When I was alone and not missing family, I would think, wish, or dream of being in water.

Water is what I would be denied, maybe forever.

I was not going to be close to water tight for a very long time.
Hoses coming out of my abdomen, and sides
were draining different colors of nasty vileness from the center of my body.
I COULD GO ON AND ON ABOUT ALL THE CRAP.........,

But boy, did I ever dream some nice stuff...


This morning at 0600AM, I ran into the cool, glassy ocean, with trunks and a 10 foot board.

I was alone at Ted's and the palms for an hour.
Got maybe 10 or more rides in that hour.
So quiet, sun shining on me at 615 as I sit on the board.
The water slipping all around my arms, and splashing my back and legs as I paddle.
A nice rhythmic song in my head.
Sun light and cool water splashing onto my face as I go for each wave.
Morning sun, and soft, warm water sprinkles my face, as I stand for each wave.
The only sound I hear is that from the board as it starts to pickup speed, and from the wave peaks crashing.
Big grins
Nice vibe
and very in tune...
making some turns, gliding and flying over the water...

this was today, this morning,

This is what I
could only dream of, for so long, however

this was this morning.

The second coming of Summer

started on Tues.07/13/10
Although the water cooled and clouded a bit, the air got hot.
So did the reef. On this (second) first night of Summer there were maybe 40 people on a single reef wave. I got almost a single ride without getting dropped in on. Jason had a great left.... except for a long board wagging at him from just behind, for half the ride. Got up on a party wave that really wasn't a party at all.

...Wed. night however proved much better for me.
15 people and I had a good 10 rides. Very warm in the Sun.
Very warm in the Sun.

Very good in the Sun.

...

WEiRd out there Today

Very glassy which was nice.......
A few with shoulders would come through.
Saw some score some .... Chuck, Mike
then the crowds filled in ...

I finally got a left that I thought had some shoulder on it,
but got hopped, accidentally ( I think ) by a wahine

It was good> I met a few new folks, formally, always a good thing.
Sunday I will be in at 5am (trunks, in pure defiance)
and ready to turn on one at the reef.
Hell or high water !
5am
Come ON Mr. Sun get your ass out there.
surf on

........... "It's NOT ok to be Gray.....STILL"

or

How I got my STOKE back.

I am tired of this years extended May Gray and June Gloom

Wah Wah Wah ! ! !.....Ok?
Ok
Thurs PM I get some out there.
Friday PM I get some more at the reef.... dreaming of the big South on the way
Saturday AM.....check it...it sucks' I split.
Sunday AM the 4th, Jason and I check it, looks craptacular, we split....
missing 2 surf days on a weekend is enough to really get me down if I let it.
Jason to the rescue......I am trying not to get down and he suggests going to
a Padres ( were number 1) game. I like "yeah, ok" and he starts looking for tickets. He sees a Craigs list add for some last minute ticket.... posted just 15 minutes ago. we get 10th row field level tickets in between home and first.... FOR 20 BUCKS each ! ! ! ! whoa !

Turns into a 9th inning tie
and Tony Gwyn Junior bats in a game winner... PERFECT day at the Ball Park.
Get outta San Diego at 3:30 and home without any traffic at 420...perfect
Get ready to go to the Fireworks show, we can virtually walk to a $100000.00 show
@ Brengle Terrace Park in Vista and have been each year for 23 years....except this year my wife Laurie has gone on a camping trip in Northern Cali with a close friend..... I am Missing her.
Jason, his gal Emily and myself go to the show....perfect no hassles no long waits in traffic... just a GREAT show.. we come back and have our traditional Root Beer Floats..." BIG SMILE"
My son just treated me to a great day....!!

I am stoked
Monday AM... wake up for dawn patrol @ 5 but crawl back in and go back to sleep, something I rarely ever get to do....
Dave calls me up and says come out at 630. Jason and I get there in trunks and
IT'S RAINING ? We go in he gets some great shoulder high rides, so do I.
We each get a head high drop or 2.
He gets the wave of the day where 3 other much more seasoned surfers couldn't and
I get really PROUD and all that.

I needed this, it came at a good time, thanks Jason,

thanks Dave,
thanks Terramar Surf buddies.

Got my stoke back ! !
surf on ! !

Happy Fourth of July

Happy Independence Day. Hope we all keep the courage to do whats right. Trunks.

It's 6am and I am taking my son with me to get some Southerners


....swell that is.

the Tide has been out lately

My life seems to be a a low tide right now.
Work, home life, and surf........basically I am at a low tide.
A wee bit drained out.
But I think the turn around is on.
The Surf is ( hopefully) up for this long weekend.
I have dropped about 13 pounds or so in the last 2 weeks.
I am moving better and better still, even 2 years post surgical crap fest.
I broke through a surfing plateau awhile back, and I am feeling like I'm poised to do so again, I just need more consecutive days .



surf on

Seems a long time gone

I haven't written in more than a month.....
I haven't really surfed much, either
should a could a
wish I would a
Ran into this surfmobile the other day, parked next to my truck.
I really don't covet with my eyes much but...



I really WANT this specific car....there... I said it>

I am going to give this Sundays SwS / SE(reportedly) big swells a run right now with my son...
so off I go
I am hopeful for a redemption of my not so hot, sort of squandered Saturday.

Saturday 'n Sundays Southern Swell

SATURDAY
With the promise of a new SSW and WNW for the weekend and a work week that was....
well...
they don't call it work for nothing....
I headed out Saturday morning at 0630.
The swell was missing...
except at the reef.
The reef was actually thundering with the sets.
The reef was also hosting 40-50 people that morning.
Those of us who were left out of the reef by our own accord,
really just sat and watched the show.
Big sets, big crowded take offs, with shorts and longs together....not really a good scene.
People falling, getting hopped and snaked ( oh yeah, a PARTY wave, not )
A friend, Terry, paddled over and talked about
how at 530 am there were only 5 people there.
Right there I decided to commit to a Sunday 0530am session.
I spent 2 hours on Saturday waiting for 2 waves to come my way. The reef would have 20 waves to our 2....this swell was that focused. Caught one in and went home.

SUNDAY
0545am
Terry was just going out so we walked to the reef together, and , there were far less people, 9 on the single peak, a peak half the size of Saturday...

The conditions were a bit more drained as well.
Waited my turn after backing out of 2 where I relinquished a take off to the proper "owner" of each wave. Got an OK ride.
Finally a nice set came through, looked around and I was in the right spot. Stood and realized I got a perfect left. Dropped and turned left, stalled then cutback right, and then I saw it, the dude coming down the line. I was gonna get snaked. period
This time it wasn't gonna happen. I did finish the cut back towards him then came around back left. The shoulder stood up and I glanced back at him again. He was still behind me, but I wasn't gonna fold on this one. Stood my ground and did as I pleased. He finally exited out back and I stepped to the nose and rode.
I rode that wave from( for those who know the spot ) South of the yellow house, past the beach club and all the way PAST 5 palms. The single longest face I have ever had.
Stepped off into 1 1/2 feet of water, and walked out on the beach.
P E R F E C T!
No reason to look back......
it couldn't get any better than that,
not on this day,
nope.
Got out at 0645 and went home to greet Laurie as she woke...

P E R F E C T O

surf on...

Alright for a Thursday Night

After getting a call from Dave to grab a board and get out there, I did and was surprised.
A southern swell was on and mixing it up at the reef and Terramar beach.

Put on my spring suit.......
I mean, who am I to argue......?Made it into the water and ..... didn't get any waves, until.....
We drifted south a bit...
Then I got into 2 really nice ones right and left and surfed them in the top of "my" form.





It's so great when they feel THAT GOOD, ain't it? Oh yeah


surf on...

Lately

Lately I have not spent as much time in the water as I would like/need to.
I have not written in this blog in awhile now, which is really just been my personal story and "diary" of my surf experience.
I last left off after a surfing friend, Chuck, taught me some stuff.
Since then I have been out mostly weekends only, not too much after work stuff.
Jason and his friends Todd, John, and I got caught in a high tide situation where the water was cracking against the cliffs by the reef. Everybody's arms were shot.
We had to exit the water without getting slammed and then skip from boulder top to boulder top, carrying our boards for 100 yards to get out. No ankles were broken.
I learned a good one from that.

Got a few sessions in with Dave and Pat, but only a few
I have had a few good surfs with Jason,

I love to see him get some great rides, and his last couple times out I have seen him having alot of fun...nice!

My sister, Dona, finally passed on and left this world.
What a wonderful person she was, I miss her and it hurts.
I was fortunate to see and speak with her just before she passed.

LIFE CAN BE CUT SHORT AT ANY MOMENT,
THINGS CHANGE IN A HEARTBEAT,
LIVE ACCORDINGLY.

I hope to keep improving my abilities.

I hope to keep improving my condition as an aging victim of circumstance that a messed up surgery left me in.

I hope get back to 200-250 days in the water per year...

I hope to grow old and stay fit enough to truly surf into the sunset,
pun intended,with my adult son Jason.

I hope to have my wife Laurie join me in the water.

I hope..


surf on.... I will

Surfing is getting more relaxed

Surfing is getting more relaxed these days.
I'm surfing better. Better than before the surgical disaster.
A lot of that has to do with 2 things.
A cutaway fin that good friend Dave supplied me and going to Sunday school with this guy

a couple Sundays back
Chuck, a great surfer, has the place wired and he surfs with a style that I particularly like.
Kinda hybrid long/short.
He spent about an hour sitting on the inside, instructing me, as I came to him and passed him. I was my first "lesson" ever. It was great. IT helped me out a lot.
Since that time I have never surfed so.... loose. The cut away assists.
It is coming together now
body, board and ocean.

:)

DAYLIGHT SAVINGS ......... HELL YES ! ! ! !

Today was so necessary...
In the water at 440pm
good bye worries
GLASS.....SWELL.....SUN.....the great life ! ! !


I surfed well
My friends Dave and Pat and Kyle were there.


2 years ago to the day I was getting ready to leave the hospital after 40 days of PURE NIGHTMARE SHIT.

I was wondering how it would be at home....
with 3 hoses running into various points of my body into cavities in my abdomen sucking out 3 distinct types of vile pus from each pocket of infection.
I had a 1 foot gaping slash in my abdomen that was unstichable due to the underlying infection.
I had a machine electronically sucking crap out of that 24 hours a day that i was attached to.
I could no longer walk for more than 15-20 feet at a time.
I had lost 60 pounds of muscle.
I would not be able to get water on myself for months.
I had a bag attached to my stomach to collect poop and could no longer take a dump.
I never really thought I would surf again and was wondering how I would be able to do anything again actually.
Transfusions
Pulmonary embolisms
PAIN PAIN PAIN
DRUGS DRUGS DRUGS
Agony

LOVE LOVE LOVE
PATIENCE
FAITH
GOD
FAMILY
FRIENDS
The dream of being in the water, surfing yes, but also just getting wet in the pool, a lake, the shower, or any water.

Today in the water after I caught and rode well 10 -12 waves my friend pat looked at me and said " just like old times".

For me it will never be like old times exactly.
My body will never be quite right but.....
In some ways it will be more deeply appreciated and thus enjoyed more perhaps.
THANK GOD for family and friends.
THANK GOD for a pretty good body.
THANK GOD for surfing.
THANK YOU !

Saturday 03/06/10 was alright

Got a few waves out there Saturday, the first of 5 days off work.

It was good

it's always good.

Its been 13 days since I don't know when..............Glad I got out last night

13 days of no surf = grumpage
Glad I got out last night. Put my suit on after I got home from work so there would be little excuse once I arrived at Terramar. Ran down the cliff and off into the sun and subsequent set(s), both waves and sun.....
As usual all the work crap was gone immediately. Waist to shoulder stuff came through of which I stood on about 6 times. I thought that it was odd not being in head high++ stuff with power on it.

Surfed OK considering conditions and inconsistent sessions over the last weeks.

The water was coldish but the sun was out and it felt GOOD to be in it.

After 10 more sunsets at 6 the 11th will be at 7PM
DAYLIGHT SAVINGS TIME Sun.03/14/10 = work bummer eraser for me. Finally I will be able to wash away my cares in the ocean after work whenever I want...

surf on....

WED PM was one to remember...

After Tuesdays stoke and
the realization of why work seems soooo hard to me now ( my lack of after work surfing), I decided for a repeat bliss out.
( Oh yeah, Daylight Savings Time starts Sunday, March 14th.. sunset is 7 pm )
There is my cure for what ails me !
anyways...
Got there but there was a coastal mystery fog, no sunny clear skies like the day before.
Was to meet Dave and his truck was there... but no Dave.
I saw the reef was going considerably better so I made the paddle south on the newly modified
Clear board.
Dave was there with 20 others however he was south at the "right". The right is OK, but the left usually is much better....usually.
Glass, clear water, shoulder to higher PEELING RIGHT waves that ran 20-50 yards with shoulder and clear glass faces. I had the right board and made every one effortlessly it seemed. These weren't the heart thumping waves of the last months that are a challenge just to drop into and get out of, that I have been doing because of timing issues ( and trying to go big)
Nope.
These were easy sweet rides.
After maybe 5 and long ( big grin ) paddle backs... Dave, I, and the others saw a few dolphins real close doing some great air tricks, landing on their backs etc....
anyways I take off on a beautiful shoulder high, glass face and there, 1 foot under me the whole way( 30 yards ), is a 9 foot dolphin looking right up at me and cris crossing under my board for the entire ride ! ! I have seen that sort of thing before, but not this long and clearly.
In fact as I rode by some folks on the shoulder of this cruiser wave, I was pointing down at the dolphin and just laughing.
My paddle back was interrupted by several people who asked "did you see that?" and holy moly kinda of comments. Wow....just wow !

It was nothing short of spectacular ! !

Will the pure amazement of this thing ever cease ? I think not.
I have been out probably 1500 times in the relatively short amount of time I have been surfing
( 8 years) I suspect my stoke to last
until I leave this earth maybe(hopefully, at least ) 30 years or so from now.
surf on....

Tuesday PM was ..... well it's what I needed.

Now I remember what gets me through "certain Days".
It is being able to get into the water after "certain activities" at the end of the day.
Thank God it's staying lighter longer now. Brought the board to work. Was due to hit it at 4 and sure as the sun rises, I got caught into staying later, as per usual.....but
I did get to the waters edge at 450 and paddled out into a great scenario.
Glass, shoulder high and +, rising tide from a low and a tidal push, sunset, dolphins few people,
and
FINALLY SOME SHAPE ! ! !
I took the side bites of my long board from Mondays thing and just had the single cutaway on it.
My board and I were dancing for a change. Up and down the lines
It was perfection !
Many many waves, all to myself !
So much fun I forgot myself.
So much ...
thanks

surf on...

Mondays blues

continued.......
After that paddle Dave and I sat outside and laughed for awhile. It was good to overcome the situation, to fight for it. I am speaking of the fact we almost weren't able to make it out.

THE morning was so beautiful , Clear skies with the sunrising on us in the pure deep green glassy water and BIG ,long interval swells.
After a few minutes to catch my breath I said, "OK all dressed up and nowhere to go"
Almost every wave was a jack up, close out mostly due to the tide and huge amount of water in front of them. I stood up on 3-4 waves in an hours time and could not drop down the face for the off shores holding me back.
Some of those closeouts would release a 20 foot high shower of water on us of the top and to the back side of the peak and as they closed out. It was like some pointing a fire hose up into the air and getting showered with it after the waves went by.
I have been in that before but not to that extreme.

Dave tried for one ,and I think he couldn't drop. He got caught inside as a clean up set came through. He was done and waited for the right ride straight in.
After he got back up the cliff to his truck ,and changed, he waited, for me. I was almost alone in the water where I was. I was trying to find a shoulder to grab. Nope. A good hour went by and I knew the tide would soon be a t a 6 foot apex and the situation was becoming increasingly dangerous. I was tired form the paddle out and all the paddling to maneuver and then get over clean up sets without getting caught . I was looking for a way in. I tried going in a bit closer to get some smaller waves but would miss those due to the high tide jack and warble thing then have to scratch back outside and over the sets.
Did this a couple times the the inevitable clean up mother, thankfully broke way the hell out there and I got an E ticket ride in on a 4-5 foot wall of white that rocketed me, on my belly, full blast all the way up onto the stones.
Thanks for waiting Dave.
Thanks for the opportunity, survival skills, all that beauty, and pure exhilaration, God !
surf on....

Mondays Paddle Out

Mondays paddle out was amazing. The tide was at about 3 feet and coming up fast mixed in with some big boy waves. The amount of water in front of strong deep swell causes the waves to jack up a lot here at Terramar. Add in the strong off shores and you got some big walls, standing high and closing out.
Dave and I attempted to paddle out into a "flattened area".... hahaha that was funny.
"Let's wait for the lull" hahaha that was funnier.
We got sucked 100 yards south( thankfully) into a channel area we know of, but could not get to on foot this AM, past "5 Palms". We had wanted to go there but there was no access 'cuz of the large waves and high tide... just cobblestones, boulders and ankle breaker reef exposures under the surface.
We then advanced out only to get beat up more form a series of sets.
I wanted to get out so bad.
After floating in the soup midway out in the impact zone of the common waves I was ready to turn back.
Dave just said "One More Time"
The waves came and beat on us and then there it was.....
our chance....

(to be continued)

Sunday was for Lovers

Laurie and I spent the day our way.
We ended up on top the cliffs in Torrey Pines.
True love is not surfing on an afternoon like this to spend it with your sweetheart.
We ended up watching what we thought was a rescue and turned out to be a retrieval of some poor 20 year old girls lifeless body who had fallen off the cliff.
I was a somber moment to say the least.
We have a different view of life and death now after my ordeal.
Life is so fleeting sometimes. Snap the fingers and gone.
I am so thankful for all the beauty and love that surrounds me.
Love is beautiful

surf on...

SAT ur Day was A O K

Saw the beautiful morning glass on the cameras but held off and out for a dropping 10-11am tide,
and Voila, wind is on it.

Oh well ,paddled out with Dave and met Pat and Kyle out there too. Not too many others were out.
Brought my tighty whitey 9'6" with a tri fin cutaway set up.
Paddling seemed soooo slooooow compared to the huge glide machine I'm so used to now.( 10'3").
Despite the wind and the odd bump and difficult nature of these waves, I feel I surfed them well.
Last time out in the bigness I was a little disappointed in myself for playing too safe and not getting to the bottom of any of the waves, even though most every opportunity was a closeout.
This time I told myself, do the full drop and bottom turn to the sweet spot and try to haul ass.
I was pleased with the results.

As I write this (Sunday, Valentines Day, 6:42 AM, glassy on cameras)
I have again, with great anxiousness, backed out of dawn patrol due to the tide situation...... might be a bad call. I have made many and will again, we'll see.

Surf on...

Snap Crackle Pop ....... big waves

SATURDAY's dawn patrol proved interesting.
0615.
Didn't really linger on the visual check scene, purposefully. Suited up and made my way down with a guy I've seen a lot but we've spoken twice. Big dude, good surfer,and he's in
TRUNKS !?!. I'm one upped again
Ok. anyways. its glassy I know it's big and there is an immediate lull and off we go, with out incident, a dry hair paddle out on a big day. Cool.
The sets start coming. Good size shoulder to head. Lotsa walled up thumpers.
I do get 3 nice big waves with shoulders. In that time frame the tide has gone from 4 to 6 feet.
0730 Time to get out.
Hmmmmm... how to get out? Waited very patiently until the shore break wave looked right picked me up and "put" me onto the hamburger patty sized cobble stone beach. The hurty when you walk on em or get sucked back over em kind of stones. It was short but sweet.
SUNDAY Psych out
dawn patrol didn't happen with a 7 foot tide and 8-10 foot faces. A friend, Squaticus Maximus, paddled out 2 min. before my arrival. I would have gone out with him by my side but instead as I was headed down to take off I noticed he was the only one out there, and all the other locals( so many, so much better than I ) were not gonna go.
Took me 5 minutes to psych out ( hate it )
Said I'll come back at lower tide.
Came back at 1230 4' tide and dropping and p
addled into a big wall o water wonderland. Dave and a friend from my work, Eileen made it out easily enough for the conditions. Then the big sets started in.
Eileen got several 8-10 footers. I was very happy to see that. Dave got a great left.
I got a few big ins and outs but nothing long enough to really get super stoked about.
Did count 4 broken and lost boards and subsequent "swim backs" and 2 broken boards in the short time I was out.
I LOVE BIG SURF....I never quite feel so alive as when I'm in it.
I LOVE BIG WAVES....

surf on

Saturday / Sunday proved too much

Too much sewage.
Too many back to backs for this old dude to make it out.
Too much for all the locals to accompany me.


Sunday I gave it a go just me and the surf
no one else, except my love Laurie who is always with me in my heart.
Got half way out and gave up not because of weakness, but I just didn't feel right without SOMEBODY else in the water under those conditions....
It has something to do with almost dying 3 or 4 times in the hospital and not wanting to leave my wife and son. There ! I mean at least with a friend or two there would be some hope of surviving a tragedy out there,
Ah well.... I gave it a go and tested the water and myself.

surf on....

I dreamed of it last night

I dreamed that I was looking out the window of a second story burger place on Oahu but it overlooked Terramar. I was trying to get a cup of coffee from a hyperactive little dude behind the counter who wouldn't count my loose change and get my coffee. Sooo I counted it for him as I was sneaking peeks of the huge blue green surf behind me out the window.
All I could think was get my coffee I gotta get out there. Then I woke up,0530.

Made coffee and I am looking at Swamis on surflines HD cam thinking all I wanna do
was get my coffee, I gotta get out there. But I am sitting here.
0638 It's getting lighter now.
get my coffee, I gotta get out there.
0641 I see some dude in the water at Swamis, he gets up on a fairly organized head high wave. Couple of up n downs and then it flops on him, shooting god knows what straight into his sinuses.
0643 It's getting lighter now.
get my coffee, I gotta get out there.
Being restricted from surfing everyday SUCKS, that's what I hate about Winter. I can't get out from work in time to get into the water afterwards.
I want to go N O W ! ! !

I know, I know exactly what you ( anyone who reads this, if anyone ) are thinking.
0648 It's getting lighter now.
get my coffee, I gotta get out there.
0649
0650

Sunday was my day

After Friday and Saturday's inconsistency in wave delivery and my own abilities for those days, I get a good one on Sunday.
THE swell is coming on quite a bit bigger, with better shape and frequency.
Not too many people were out @ 645. My surf buddy Dave decided he wasn't in.
So as I am walking down, another friend, Squat, joins me and suggests we paddle out in a channel he knows of down the way a bit.
Jim is an experienced surfer and literally has surfed Terramar, for what I believe is every day for the last, well, MANY years.
So..... I take him up on his offer and wisdom. It was a great help, as I can get a bit squirreled
during paddle outs on big days. Made it out without events or issues in a rather relaxed way.
Paddled to just south of Ted's house and Jim just kept going North toward warm waters. We stayed about 150 yards apart and watched each other a bit.
Large waves would come through in 5 wave sets.
Few people were where I was.
I don't like sharing drops much when things get big, so this was good.
OK, so I get a couple great rights and a few lefts. The speed was pretty amazing on these waves.THE SIZE was great too....head high faces.
I chose high lines and middle of the board positioning for speed.
I did choose my 10'3" even though the inside part of these waves Sunday were nasty closeouts. I made this decision based on the thought that I would be able to get into the waves on the outside and much earlier than with other boards, or for that matter people. It gave me an undeniable edge making it easier for me to hand pick better shaped waves.
This worked perfectly on this day
I did surf well and I felt great about the whole thing.
I am working my way towards my goal again.
The photo below is the first photo of me surfing. My son took it.
It has special meaning to me as well.
It is me

I put it here as I am beginning to feel like "me" again.
I am leaving behind the surgical tragedy of almost 2 years ago and
once again improving my surfing abilities.

surf on...

Friday PM / Sat AM 01/08-09/2010

Friday had to race all day at work and then had to race to the ocean. In the water at 345pm. It was cleansing and some bigness was rolling beneath my friends and I.
Gone are the days where this was an everyday occurrence after work. My boss has moved me inland and to a place where afterwork sessions in winter are almost impossible .
Much has changed since 02/08/08.

Saturday proved to be pretty good as well. Got out a bit late for DP but had a few good rides.

Happy New Year......c'ya 09

Old business

12/20/09-Sunday Surfing with my son. He is off from school and work.I see him get some good ones.
It's been so long since we've spent much time together, in the water or out.
I tell myself this is the natural order of things,but I don't like it.
It is good to be surfing with my son again.

12/25/07-Friday-Christmas- Jesus Christ' birthday
and an observed Holiday from Surfing for myself.

12/26/09-Saturday Hyped WNW swell not in yet, at least not for our dawn patrol.
Jason, his friend Todd,and I are virtually skunked in 38 degree air and 53 degree water. Everywhere we go, waves are not.

12/27/09-Sunday The Hyped WNW swell is on, but the walls are nasty closeouts,
Jason,Dave and I, and many others watch from the cliffs

and psych out !

I get a bad feeling from this. I hate psych outs, although I do rely heavily on intuition. This one pissed me a little. Ah well that's the way she goes.

12/28/09-Monday psych out redemption. After work I hustle to get out and into the line up by 4pm.
I want some big stuff, and big stuff there was that night. A lot of in and outs for myself. Nice big close outs but it's good to feel power underneath you. Stay up high, go for a little ride, then out over the back before the wall comes down.
Took some crap from a good surfer, but he's such a loud little shit though.
He can't shut up and can't help it really.
Oh well, I backed him off as much as I should have, I suppose. I mean I am 53 and he's all of 15 or something. He's gonna be a great surfer one day.
Oh yeah.... !
That evening Dave and I were waiting for some waves with shoulders when 10 yards further out, a single 10foot rogue wave plows through. Dave is about 5 yards better than I and he somehow punches through the top 3/4 of this thing...
I, on the other hand, do NOT.
I am smacked hard off the board as I try to get over it.
I am driven down as my board is being picked up and taken over the falls.
I cannot tell up from down and the the board yanks me towards the beach maybe 7-10 yards.
I figure it out ,and come up for air.
WOW, that was a doozie.
I have taken some good ones, but this one really had some juice on it ! !
It's funny, but that is exactly what I needed.
You know what I mean?
Dave and I finally got a wave with some shoulder to it and rode it in.
It was a good night for us both.
That was the finish of 09

Mid Decemmmmburrrrr, Christmas and going into the 2010 do over.

Got to get out with Jason on a few days before Christmas as school is giving him a break. No more trunks now for awhile I suppose. A week ago Ted was beckoned from his 2nd story deck by my son and a friend an he bolted out in trunks. I of course was stuck at work. When I heard that one I got bent. One of those recent Santa Ana days mid morning small waves but trunkin it.....ahhhh.
Jason,his buddy Todd and I tried on Saturday, in the cold but really could'nt snag anything. THere was a pre-swell 20 minutes apart wave that would show up but that was it.
Later that day, more came thru but I was Christmasing with the family, a good thing.
Sunday am we go out too cold too closed out, alida,pat went I grossed about it all day.
so Monday was gonna be an early out of work or should I say get outta work on time for a change day. Paddled out with Dave @ 345 and witnessed some true power under and "over" me. SMart ass kid and a great couple 6 foot in and outs a 10 foot thumper that sent me under and backwards about 10 yards wondering which way was up. Finally a nice head and shoulder ride in with Dave. We laughed about it and finished well

Merry Christmas to All

Very Cool Wednesday PM session

This has been an interesting
few weeks for me. I have been struggling with work in setting up a new specimen collection office for a large San Diego Medical Laboratory. I designed it from the ground up.
First time for that.
All eyes on me.
Finally we opened and it is going great on day 4.
However, LOTSA STRESS leading up to this, and not much surf time, which is a tough combo.
The weekends have been ok with a few really good sessions sparsely mixed in. Notably, witnessing my son Jason getting some great stuff and riding well. Myself getting more waves per session than usual .
Tonight was a hoot.

Very stressed and ready to go, I raced out at 4;30 pm and paddled into some very large sets.
Stoked, I waited for the right set and picked an overhead right that got my heart a pumping.Ride an ever increasing shoulder for a bit, turned as it was about to close out , and rode in into 1 foot of water and hopped of at 5;20 pm. PERFECTION.
Just what we ordered........ ah big waves of winter.
Gonna be a fun week if the weather holds.

surf on

nice redemption sessions

After Sunday's ..... well after Sunday I was treated to an after work/evening surf with my son.

Wed.
I snuck outta work at 3 and got out and in the water by 330
There was some surf and the weather was perfecto.
We each got some glassy rides and saw our friend Don...groovy dude and good surfer.
Sat.
Waited until 10 am to go out cuz the tide was @ 6 feet. That was a mistake as I was told by a few. Paddled out to mostly peaks without shoulder, but managed to get a couple decent right shoulders out of it. Weather was great and I was satisfied.

so far so good
we'll see what Sunday brings

Welcome Winter Waves ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Saturday's dawn patrol began in the water @ 6am
with a wetsuit(first time since march)
Dave and I got a few although they were kinda tough to get into.
Had some nice winter rights on the smaller board and was moving around pretty well.
Sunday's dawn patrol began in the water @ 6 am,

Today it would be very very different for me ! !
I got "worked" on my paddle out,
more "worked" than I care to be "worked". I got "worked" for 10 min.
I was exhausted when finally got outside.
The sets that came through early on were beautiful. Big sets.
Big, glassy, deep green 2-3 wave sets way outside.
Big and glassy with spray blowing back from the peaks.
Some had great long shoulders. Some were close out BOMBS.

BEAUTIFUL

The first set a guy handed to me,
but I was still recovering from the paddle out.
The second set I would back out of,
still too tired.
The third set I relinquished to an another,
who rode it fine, fast, and furious to the right for a good 50 yards.
The fourth set he and I both paddled for. He was to my left.
I backed out thinking he was going right again,
but
he did go left, as a courtesy, I am sure.
Missed another.
Miscommunication.
On the big stuff especially, I am uncomfortable with 2 or 3 of us dropping close, in one wave.
I don't like to worry about the other folk should I mess up on a bad close out.
I don't like to worry about the other folk should they mess up a bad close out.
To make it worse, I got SUPPED twice from 1 SUP.
From 15 yards further out than Frikin OAHU. Supper's gack !!
We should segregate ourselves a bit in my humble O
To make my VERY Long story a bit shorter,
today I surfed
like a puss.

Luckily there will be more semi epic days, and opportunities, God willing!

surf on

Trick or treat.......

T R E A T
It is funny how we all perceive the same "thing" differently.

As I was walking towards the beach today, Sunday, with Laurie and Jason I saw a couple of friends. One was just signaling in the distance to get out of the water as if it wasn't good.
My other friend said as long as your hear to just paddle around it will be OK.
What I saw was...
1)My wife Laurie had joined me, a rarity and always pleasant experience, despite the fact that it takes "longer" to get ready and go.It is so good to have her share this thing.
2) I was getting a rare chance ( nowadays ) to surf with my son Jason.
3) Air temp about 75. Sun bright and very warm on the skin.
Very clear blue green water. I see the eel grass swaying in the swell below me, lots of fish, exposed winter reef and sand bars.
4) Trunks still, yeah the water is cool, but with no wind and bright sun, it rocks.
5) Small little waves rolled in. Jason and I both caught a good amount and rode faces into 3 feet of water.
Jason had a couple really nice waves.
I had a couple more, but I am in better practice right now.

It was a wonderful day. My son was proud of me. My wife was proud of me.
WE were together in midst of a beautiful day.
I felt like royalty, standing up in knee high waves the color of.... well, you know.

surf on...

Beautiful, tropic Monday PM and I get......

SCHOOLED

Kinda flat looking. I decide to go in anyways even though my "buds" bailed on me before I got there.
Got to know a long time T Mar local and got a wave or 2. After Paul SR. split, there came 2 GREAT surfers whom I love to watch.
Along with them, came some swell as the tide changed.
These two would catch every bump or roller that came through, and rode em well and were very stoked on the weather, conditions and vibe. I was super stoked on the conditions and the dolphin pods around us. I got a couple, and then I started a real fun thing.
I started to F* up everything I did.
It was funny actually.
I got owned, and I am the one who ownethed myself.
Then Chuck came out and I proceeded to miss virtually every wave I went for.
As I was getting out I thought "aaahhhhh it's lunch recess at last."

No worries.
I get that sorta thing, it is actually what keeps me so stoked, in a way.
Sheesh, just yesterday I was.........

surf on ...

Sunday AM....... I GET MY 1st SHACK !

The Photo is of Chuck. Chuck has Terramar wired.


Chuck and I start the paddle out together and as we are timing the waves to get out

We are floatingbetween Paul and the beach, as he is getting tubed, beautifully tubed.
Paul is in the photo below.. NOT"the tube" but Paul, none the less.

As Chuck and I watch him come out of the green room he raises his hands in a victory "touchdown" kinda thing.
I was stoked just watching him in that pipe so close up, from the inside.
As I paddled by him I was kidding and said, "Oh I thought you were on your SUP"
He just smiled and said ,"Nah, this day is all about the Tube Fest"
Well.... he was right
and the time was finally right for little old me !

I caught a few nice outside to inside speeders and watched others gettin' covered and then coming out. There was some great surfing goin on this morning.
** THEN I got an outside right, stayed with it to the inside, started speeding up then squatted down and dug my hand into the face...
next thing I know, all I can see is white water, and I am in and covered up, but still flyin down the face. After a few seconds I came out, could see the shoulder again, stood and flipped over the back side of the wave. S T O K E D ! !
Chuck saw it, AND a woman happened to be taking pictures
of the only guy out there in TRUNKS (yours truly of course), so I may get a shot of that.
Anyways, it's etched in my head and heart forever.
1st good cover up ! !
hell yeah

surf on...

Friday night , Saturday Morning, and Life

Friday night and Saturday Morning were good.
PM surfing was with my son.
It is ALWAYS good surfing with my son.
JASON+FRIENDS+WAVES+TRUNKS+NATURE+EXERCISE=G O O D

Surfing with Jason is an integral part of the whole scene for me, although that has been changing, as all things must, I suppose? We surf together less and less. I dot think that will be the case for very long and I look forward to retirement and surfing often with him and his family if I am so fortunate and blessed.
These last 2 years have had a lot of changes for me and my family.
Yes, there were some good changes.
Most notably were the strengthening of my relationship with the love of my life, Laurie.
Also the addition of "friends" into my life.
Plus the building relationship with GOD and nature.
There were other ones that weren't so good, but I fight them physically and mentally everyday. Family, friends, God, and mother ocean will get me through the bad ones.

Saturday AM was good. Got out with my friends Dave and Pat although the waves were hard to get into I seem to be surfing well and better than before.
We had fun as usual.

Wed Pm was nice stuff.....

High tailed it from work to home.
Home to break. 5pm
Wife.
Friends.
Waves,waist to shoulder stuff.
Trunks.

Many waves , rights and lefts.
Good rides were had by all.
I had many more waves than a typical session..... AGAIN !.
Sunset
Green Flash
Dinner

Repeat...... if lucky

surf on....

Saturday PM very surprising and prolific

Saturday PM was very surprising and prolific.

Did not do a dawn patrol as the high tide scene was in effect.
Worked around the house trying
to earn a "get out in the water" pass
to go afternoon surfing at the tide pull out.
Well...
this worked out fine ! ! !
My better half, Laurie, went with me, brought a chair and sat and watched me surf long enough to actually see me get 5-8 waves.
This only took about 15 minuets.
I would get many, many more this VERY FOGGY afternoon.
NO ONE WAS THERE.... well let me clarify this to crystal,
there were 3 other people, spread out with 20 yards between us
and a proliferation of super glassy, frequent, shoulder high waves coming through.
TRUNKS
I had no rest time between long lefts and rights.
It was simply AMAZING.
Laurie then went for a walk while I spent myself surfing in virtual solitude.
I mean solitude.
I mean spent myself.
The fog-mist was so thick, I think no one figured it would be good.
Maybe they couldn't see anything on the cameras,
or... maybe it was just my turn.
Oh Yeah, I stood feet together,on the nose,diving board style,
at the top 3/4's of a shoulder high wave and
just rode it....
rode it long and good.
I am proud and humbled at once.
I am now surfing better than before the --------------------------->
nightmarish surgical, near death, sooo set-back, bullshit #*$^@ crap ! !
Haaaa
Thank you God.
Thank you all that helped me and are still helping me get through this !
surf on

Friday Pm ..............not as LARGE

but I had a good time.
1) My son JASON was with me in the water.
2) Other friends were there as well.
3) THE WEATHER AND SURFACE CONDITIONS were perfect.
4) T R U N K S
5) I caught several pretty good rides on both boards. This was the first time I have been on the small single for quite awhile and that was nice.
6) I actually out surfed most the crowd :)

THURSDAY PM WAS.....L A R G E

Got out after work and in about 4:30 or 5 pm.
Decided to go with the big board as I was not confident about my abilities to paddle out so well yet.
TRUNKS as it was still warm and I didn't need the restraint of anything on my shoulders ...
With the tide coming in fast and high I had to wait a bit in the soup, then made it out with only a few "dive for life's" on the way.
I sat waaaaay the hell outside,
with BIG ROLLING SWELLS passing under myself,
Pat, David and Kyle.
Those big fat swells slap a permagrin on me like nothing else really.
It's wild.
I let 2 waves go that I should have gone for.
one cuz someone else next to me was going for it
( I don't wanna eat anything other than dinner tonight )
and missed the other just shooting the shit with a friend.
( There are always more, right ? ),
After some time. the next "Bill" wave came through about a minuet after I was pondering all the obstacles there would be on the inside, if I did get a fast big one.
Oh well...... From far, far outside
I went, dropped far, stood, rode up and down the face, moving fast through the short boarders strewn the length of the wave....
I was laughing out loud the whole way,
had a great ride into 2 inches of water,
stepped off, and called it a night.
BINGO ! !
hope you all got some too
surf on

Last night I dreamed of BiGWavES

Going front side, doin mean rail grabs to get out of the late take offs.
Going back side, doin mean pig dogs to get thru and around the white water and onto the steep shoulders.
Dropping down the peak, cutting deep bottom turns and slowly standing on the way down the line.

I am hoping the forecasters are right, that the shape is there, and that my arms and body are strong enough now, just to get the opportunity.

I used to go out without too much concern,
pre surgical crap------>
Now thing are a little different for me, but I won't ever give up
getting back to square 1.

we'll see
surf on...

After work sessions, did I even go to work?

Wednesday PM
After work sessions, did I even go to work?
That's how it still is.
I don't even remember work immediately as I enter the water.
For another 5-8 years ( God willing I'll retire to a less stressful scene ) I hope that's how it will be. I won't even remember work immediately as I enter the water.
It's like playing hooky, its like a big washing machine for my brain, 5 minuets in and it's like all the troubles of the day are GONE, POOF, VANISHED, nuthin left but water, sun, waves, flying,
yep ......
Last night got calls that there were some waves at super low tide around 5 pm. I figure the in push will offer some up. It Did !
David says Pat says, so Dave is hoping for a repeat of the night before when were all in the water until 715 pm and its dark.
Kyle was there.

Wasn't quite so good but....we got some

yep ......

surf on

Frequent sets of 5-8 or more waves........................HHJJ

WoW, the first taste of winter like swell, cept for the warmness
When is the last time we had that?
I cant remember.
Beautiful sunset, water temp and conditions.
There have been some BIG nice days this year, but this is the first I have been in a consistent wave scenario in awhile.
David,Pat and I really had a good time tonight. Lotsa waves, with some punch and shoulder on some of 'em. Very few people in the water. We even saw "The Green Flash", big, bright and just as sure as I type this blog, astounding.
Surfed into the dark.
This was just one of those GREAT after work sessions.

one for the books
Happy happy joy joy,
LoL
surf on.......................

Whether Report (knot sew) Suite

Was hoping for the AM glass(not predicted)and the predicted swell, but no. White caps,wind, and victory at sea conditions starting up.
Sometimes yeah, but not this AM.

surf on

Im all about the Happy Happy Joy Joy.......... so if ya dont like it, suck it.................. LoL

I could NOT RESIST my own commentary on the state of being in the water.

Dawn patrol looked bad so I went home ehhhh
I figured the tide pull out/approaching swell combination would be good around 12 noon if the wind stayed off. Ooohhhh I got one right for a change.
Friends waved me to the reef but it didn't look too good yet ....but a beautiful day for sure. Then it turned on and Kyle, Pat, David, and I had the place to ourselves for about 40 minuets. Got some good stuff. It was nice to be out in the bright sun and warm water, midday. I practically never do that with Dawn Patrol and after work sunset surfs.

Tuesday's PM Surf was killed by the tide, but

I was warm, without human company, and I found myself in amazement while in the water catching a few swells.

Why was Sunday's Super Slick Session Sick ?

Because I have a great big






surfboard
that loves the glass.
Sometimes that board truly rules Ted's spot despite that
I am the one surfing on it LoL
Got out at about dark o'clock, trunks and ZERO air movement.
Water temp seemed up again.
There were 3 people in at Ted's.
Squat, Greg, and myself.
Alone.
Waves came through,
and we each got 'em.
Alone
Glassy ones, that got pushy on the inside.
Rights and lefts.
It took about a half hour for anyone else to get out.
I enjoyed this morning's session.
It was clean, quiet, glassy, and super glide(y)

Surf, surf ,and surfy surf.

Today's DP was nice, but slow. My in Laws, whom I love dearly, were in town and I didn't want to spend too much time away this morning and didn't.
In at 6am TRUNKS, out at 8 a little on the cool side.
4 -6waves
I did get "vague de la journée", so I was told.
A nice, outside solo that Aleta and I both paddled for, smiling.
She goes left I go right.
Thought I might get get frog housed ( LoL )- so I dug my right arm into the face and it slowed me, too much, probably.
Ahhh oh wel, it still was a great ride and got the compliments that I evidently (and secretly) need.
When they come it DOES, feel good.

Was out last Wednesday Pm after work and that was good too.
I actually had some really long shouldered lefts and was moving the big stick around pretty well for me.
Saw a new friend I have made at Terramar whom I haven't seen in awhile.
Kyle was injured about 2 months ago during some big surf when a ditched board cut his calf, literally right to the bone, for about what looks to be 9 inches or so. He took 3 layers of stitches and 2 months recovery, because someone let loose their board in a large set.
I really try to hold on these days. I learned a good lesson from his misfortune.
It was good to see him okay and back in the water again.
I know the feeling of being forced out of the water for periods of time too.
Kyle makes some super fine wood boards check this out http://karmasurfboards.com/home

SURFING is the LIFE for me

surf on ...

Saturday AM

Got out pretty early today 0630
Coulda got out @ 6 but didn't sleep well....work dreams YIKES ! !
Got a few nice ones as the tide turned and came up.
Nice, warm and glassy as we like it. Trunks if course.
Crowds came in fast this morning, probably cuz they saw me styling away on those smooth, long shoulders, uh huh !
Was catching rights after a few early lefts, so as not to get too tangled up with the others.
This worked out nicely.
I have never considered myself to be a great horizon set spotter but, I did ,and paddled away south and out to it ..... bam wave-o-the-day action for moi. A left,got a good drop, no one else was prepared, and much to my amazement, no one stood up on me ( shoulder hopped ) or otherwise.
Believe me that is rare around these parts, in these conditions, on weekend days, with those surfers.....LoL.
The return paddle out was rewarding too.
Got some more rights as the tide filled in and then got out by 820.
Sunday Im gonna get in at 6 and go directly to the reef as it looked( almost always does ) better.

It was a good surf morning.
I did, however, miss surfing with Jason and "the Dave".

surf on...

Sunday's swell was , well, swell

Better than Saturday
Sunday Swell was there but ...
Wind was on it immediately,I put on the spring suit up in the lot then took it off as soon as I got 2 toes in the ocean, so trunks in the wind...
Paddled outside and got a pretty nice left .
After that I would watch some friends get a few outside EPIC lefts. Head high drops and shoulders.
Most of the outside stuff would wall and closeout badly some with not so nice outcomes.
I avoided that scene... just wasn't in the mood to chance some smack downs today, so I stayed well within myself. After a bit it dawned on me that most all of the outside stuff was too closed out to get into and I picked up on the Terramar experts being inside and taking r i g h t s. Did the same and was feeling it. My rights were nice reasonably long, allowing me to get into the nose area several times.
Not what I truly wanted, that is to say I would have preferred some of those "better" rides ,but no worries, I like that I can surf at all.
I will

surf on...

I Paddled alot !

A funny "pre" windswell( ??) was on and coming on Saturday morning.
It was tough getting into any of the beach breakers for me and my long board.
I paddled to the reef , turned back n paddled to warmwater (hot water) maybe 78 degrees ?
Paddled back to Ted's and caught a few then rode one in.
As I stood on the cliff changing I saw some lines in the glass .

Finer still ! ! !

Friday it was Jason and I again.... I was hoping for less crowds and instead of thinking about who I don't want to hit, maybe I could concentrate on my board, myself and dancing on the WAVE.

Bingo. Got what I wanted and so did Jason
We each had some very good ones and it was sweet.
I love surfing sunsets and the last two didn't let us down.
Surfing with my son is always so fulfilling. I hope to do this until I'm gone from this earth

I am feeling more"normal" again.
It's been a awhile.
For sure it has been awhile.

Saturday's AM dawn patrol was great.
I got 2 GREAT waves ! !
Just the ones I hoped would show... fat, fast, and outside every one else.
As I was riding the sweet spot on best of those, I saw Alita, sitting on the shoulder way in front of me, with a pretty big " nice one Bill" grin on her face ...... like it, and, as I continued, some one else who was facing me as I was coming down the line fast was taking pretend camera shots of me, ya know?
I like it like that sometimes I need that once in awhile, not always but once in awhile its really good to get that stuff from your peers.

Sunday afternoon I got a couple in the super hot 100 degree weather and nice refreshing glass.
What a great week of surfing ! ! ! !

I have had at least 10 sessions in a row without missing any days....


I am just about back to good! I am so close now !
Thank God, family, and friends for that.
THANK YOU ! ! !

I usually don't whine....

I usually don't whine....but the crowds were a bit heavy today.
The swell improved as predicted....
I have got into a great forecaster by the way.
http://socalforecast.blogspot.com/
Big fatties were rolling in from the outside again, but this time there were more spots showing than just the reef. Unfortunately, there were a lot of short boarders, long boarders, body boarders, and sups all mixed in and spread wide.
All of these working the same spot, when there are pretty good sized outside sets sweeping through,just doesn't work well.
My son was there and that was a treat. WE shared boards and both got a couple of very good rides.I really enjoy seeing him get some, as I know he does for his old dad. Although I do admit, when I surf, I don't feel old at all. I feel like I'm a kid for sure.
I wish I didn't have to spend the majority of this day dodging sponges and insiders.

This is about stoke and stoked I am.
The waves were, well , some of 'em were epic.
The water quality and temp were epic.
Weather epic.
Friends and family, yep, epic.
Sweet ! !

Surf on

Tuesday swell so, so.........but

Tuesday swell so, so.........but

the water/weather was super fine. Got calls from both surf buddies saying go, although with slightly different reports. I have been out 5 days in a row and Im sore.I cannot resist it.
Brought a different board, and(after trying out a cutaway fin on the big board),it took me a few waves to get into any kinda of grove. We gort some rides in the bright sun and warm glass. THE highlight was watching Pat in the Hat take a 8 foot straight down, late take off. It was just epic really. He didnt make the bottom turn but that was just a HELL DROP, one I appreciate. He came out fine, maybe some parts were bruised, but man what a sight. I didn't want to get out of the water last eve.

It is just so fine right now, so fine. I am hoping for a repeat and in trunks in the water at sundown and beyond Maybe some of that cosmic canopy action, after the sun sinks below the horizon. Maybe...when the sky looks like this