Wed Sunshine and Glassyness

Went out @ 12noon looking at offshore conditions and pure swimming pool glass.
Immediately decided to make the 100 yard paddle to Igor's reef as it was the only thing breaking really.
Water was reasonably clear considering the weather last week and it was cool. Sun was warm.
I really wanted to get some good waves but there just wasn't much power or form , which led me right down the kook road. I managed a few OK rides but many more kook outs. That Igor's wave at the yellow houses can be a real challenge, especially when its smaller.

Going out on a DP in the morning.... we'll see.

surf on...

Sunday was C O O L

Got out early on the DP and was treated to off shores , glass and bright blue skies. It was a littletidey so the beach break 'tween Warmies and Terra Mar was my call. Got a couple, then the spot" got a little crowded very fast.
Soo I paddled south to T Mar and got maybe 6more, 3 of those were really nice, glassy walls allowing me to make some speed filled turns.

Got my fill all alone......ahhhhhhhh.

Got out and up to the cliff and after 2 min in the truck towards home I was amazed to see the foothills totally dusted out in snow..... beautiful.

Surfing and snow ........ awesome, I love it ! ! !

surf on....

2nd day of 1st winter biggy Almost Magaine Cover

Day 2 of swell.... "Almost Magazine" picks me for the Cover shoot.
It was BIGGER, maybe twice the size of day one. I figure it was a 4 tier soup bowl. The waves were outside that and coming in sets of 5-10 waves with a clean-up of 2 in each set.
Well I guess I didn't pass this test. Suited up @ 350pm. Saw my friend Pat, he was trying to get out. Against my better judgement of paddle out spots, (small rip down @ palms) I chose going out close to a buddy( the buddy thing was a good choice).
I paddled for what seemed like 30 min. and got to within one wave of outside. I simply ran out of breath and strength at the worst time. I just couldn't hang, and turned. Pat made it outside. 5min. later there was a lull. I didn't make it long enough to catch that lull. I was so close.
I took this really hard.
Gonna fix some personal habits.
Gonna cross train for cardiopulmonary.

Hell I'm stoked I went at least, better than not for sure.
There's only one choice for me,
surf on...

1st day of 1st winter biggy

Well.... with what seemed to be
the whole world joined in a conspiracy to keep me outta the water,
I made it.
Cried like a little girl to get out of work @ 3:15.
Jason and I got in the water @ 3:50
Wave sets rollin' in.
Some nice steep drops, big fat swell under the feet, great weather, niiiiiiiiice.
Had to get out 45 min later to go to a show with wifey.
It was the best 45 min I've had in awhile, oh the show was good too !
My son got a killer right, and steeeeep drops.
I think I rode 5 waves in those 45 min. but the heart was pumpin and smile was out.
Good 1st day.
tomorrow.......
surf on...

Im ready

12/21/2005 TerraMar

I've been going out 200+ sessions each year for 2 years since Big Wed. 12/21/2005 for a reason.
That reason is because during that swell, I couldn't even get outside on the paddle out.
I am 51 years old. I have been surfing for 6 years now. The first 3 years of that I don't even count as "surfing", as I only went out maybe 20 times a year.
I'm never going to be like I was @ 25-35 years old. I will never have that level of strength and endurance again.
BUT I have significantly improved my paddle power and surfing intelligence since 12/21/05, and I'm really hoping I can get a chance to try myself out in the face of what was once way above my limit.

I hope
We will see.
Surf on......
P.S. as I am typing this the news reports a seasoned kayaker spotted a 25 foot shark in La Jolla cove today, probably just a ploy top scare everybody out of the upcoming swell... GULP

We've all read the forecasts

Hopefully the weather and swell line up together.


I have not been out now for 7 days. This is not ideal in my mind. I would like to have had a couple in before this WNW swell arrives, but work and weather have not made it easy.
Work still conspires against me for this upcoming week.

Plan A:
Monday PM warm up.
Tuesday PM in
Wednesday PM in
Thursday AM DP

I hope....
we all get some
I hope....
I can meet my expectations
surf on....

Hope

I read a forecasters blurb the other day on shurfshot forecast. A possible swell showing up this coming Monday 12/03/07
THAT forecaster eluded to a swell model looking similar to the one that came on 12/21/05 and permanently changed my life( at least to date)
I remember 12/21/05. Wednesday.
I remember my frustration of not even being able to make the paddle out 3 days later
( thank youGod, for I was nowhere near ready).
This is a gallery of that swell, read through it. All of the pages of photos are great.
The comments are equally as great.
http://photos.signonsandiego.com/gallery1.5/sdbigwaves?page=1

I'm willing
I'm able
I hope

surf on

ThanksGiving WeekEnd Update

Thurs. went to the In-laws in Thousand Oaks. Lotsa food,fun, and family. No traffic or hassles. Beautiful weather. It was good to see everyone and indulge.
Fri. Did a dawn patrol and it was swamped out big time
Sat. 6am "" " " " " " " "
Sat @ 11am returned and went out in the spring suit. Alot of texture and some small sets every 15 min. Got 2 good rides outta 5 rides. Hung out with the Ted in the water and had fun.
Sun. Went in at about 630am. Glassy, high tide, close outs. Air was cold in the am, felt like Winter.
Did a long paddle south to watch the high tide waves slam the cliffs, as not alot of "ride ables" were there for me. On the paddle back caught a few. My son had showed up on the cliffs with a camera ( uggg ). I always have a little different "minds eye" view of my form than what the photos show. Always room for the improvement, hehe, shish.

Oh yeah, Im thankful very much so.

I love Thanksgiving day.
Count 'em up and think about it. Take stock in it. Its really all there is.
It's the right thing to do. Appreciate actively all the good things we have.
I try to do it daily and never loose sight of what I'm thankful for.

My wife and son, and the time we have together.
My family here now and in the great beyond, and their love for me,their guidance, and wisdom.
My home, my job and that they are close to work and Surfing.
Thank God and nature, mother ocean, the sun, the wind, and the rain.
My friends.

S U R F I N G

OK surfing. Surfing has turned my life around. It is a large part of me now. I go as much as possible. It cleanses me each and every time. IT is my fun, challenge, fear, thrill, workout that keeps me healthy in mind and body. It plugs me into nature and God directly, every time I go, every time. Each time is different. Different friends and acquaintance's, different waves,weather, and conditions. Different challenges, and different responses from my head and body and emotions. The glass, the warmth,the cold, the victory at sea, the "at one -ness". The whole thing changes and changes again, always interesting, always different.
The peace, the successes, the defeats, the chance to always improve. Hope of an epic day. Finding and epic day when you least expect it....from nowhere.
God...the water, water,water,water, and its ability to always fill me with wonder and amazement. Surfing is so sensual, it floods the senses, heart and soul.
I could go on and on, LoL and I do, for that is what this blog is. I have read alot lately about what surfing IS and whether or not it defines people.
Surfing has defined me, not the culture so much, not surfline or the crowds or any of that crap. Not the blogs I read, or the products I choose.
Surfing is what I choose to do for the reasons above. Not for any ones approval, disapproval or otherwise. It is what I love, and for THAT reason

I AM A SURFER.

Happy Thanksgiving Day

surf on...........................................................................................................................

Monday Eve

Got out with my son Jason @ 4pm. Glassy, and still s o m e size on the sets.
Cool water and air. Few people out. Got alot of waves and so did Jason.
So great going with my boy. I love that ! ! ! Its a real gift. Its "priceless"
Got lefts and rights compliments of the North Westerner. Winters comin back and just in time.
I love the way that just when Ive had enough of wetsuits the summer comes.
Just when I'm sick and tired of summer crowds and "noise" the winter comes and thins it out real good.
It's all good, ALL OF IT ! ! !

surf on........

Got size ?

Sunday morning we got some. Wow its been awhile since I've stood on anything that high. I believe Labor day was he last time I felt like that.
Got in around 7, but was missing my son. He had stayed up too late the night before, so he surfed the sheets. Bummer, I am missing him surfing with me. It seems he goes with me less and less now. Im gonna work on that, quick.
Was tempted to go a little north to WWJ, but.........the right was packed and pounding people.
Watched a single surfer ( a confirmed wave magnet and a contrary )
surfing a spot solo and observed the wave direction. Yep, winter style. Paddled south of him a bit and got a few rights. Some folks then paddled out who failed to have their big cup of shut-the-f*&k up beforethey came to surf and I paddled another 50 yds. south for the quiet.
Took awhile, but as the tide moved lower I was rewarded with some sets that had some real size, although a bit walled.
I think I handled the walls better because of my evening surf sessions last week. Surf by "feel".
Finally got a big, fat, tall ,fast right. I've been waiting for that for a long while.
Glassy,steep, high and fast. Sa weeeeet.
Looking forward to more of that, maybe with the next SantaAna's !

surf on......

Great GREAT stuff

The last 3 Nights were magic.
Pure glass, few people, warm air, and cool water with a slight offshore.
Off in the distance a silhouette of the islands against the fire red glowing band on the horizon . To the west clear skies fade from red to light blue to navy, to purple to black, the crescent moon surrounded by a few stars. This happened @ 5:20 pm
All of this, all at once, was spectacular !
THEN the W a V e S come in ! !
Shoulder + peaks, pure glass with lots of long navel sized shoulders. Rides from outside to the sand, over and over and over. A long board, soul surfers dream.
H e a v e n !

WED EVE SESSION WAS ........

Almost identical to yesterday eve. Too crowded @ Tamarack with too many short boarders on waves closing out too fast.
Went to home break where the swell has 2/3rds less size and waves but......... because all the folks were at other breaks I got my 6-8 good waves all to myself. I polled surfers from north and south of me in very crowded lineups( more than 20 per peak ) and the wave count was the same or less than mine. So.........

surf on folks, surf on

Damn you, shortboard bowling pins.

Tamarack was firing big for the first part of the arriving swell. 4 wave sets spaced 5 min between the sets, head high ++.
25 bowling pins crowed into a 10 yard takeoff spot. Not for me, I hate bowling for shorties.
Drove to Terra Mar knowing it wouldn't be as good and it wasn't. I went out.
Caught the first big wave ....... it WAS good.
In 1 hour I only saw 4 more biggies. Got all of them. In between there was NOTHING.
South to Igor's and further south were more frequent BIG FAT WALLS closing out fast.
I'm stoked, hell when Im in the water I'm ALWAYS STOKED, thank God ! !
I'm feeling good about tonight and Looking Forward to the next 3-4 days, hoping my little Private Idaho will pan out.
Hope is a wonderful thing.
Solitude is as well.

surf on........

Weekend Update

Saturday got out @ 630 and the tide was high and the push was weak. Did get a few. Paddled til I got a burn . It was functional. Functional is what I must get back to.


Sunday had higher hopes but nothing to write home about. Caught 2 right away with no one else within 100 yards of me. Warm Waters was curling. The beach was breaking real close in. A few saw my couple rides and paddled south to get some also. I saw a nice one break outside at the reef, heard a couple of ooos and ahhs from my immediate company, so I turned and made the paddle south.
I caught maybe 10 at the Igor's reef and south. One of those was a right ( rare for that spot ) where I got the longest nose trip ever. Both feet 2 inches behind the nose, the WHOLE TIME, a long time. I managed to steer from the front and was astounded by this and how it felt.
I am having breakthrough moments now, much needed after the last month of mediocre surfing.
Looking forward to this week and some decent sized stuff...I'm ready I believe !

Went out and GOT SOME

Haaaa, didnt expect that . Gray and coolish. got there @ 445 pm
No one out.
No chop either.
No wind
Saw some lines. paddle out was easy. water was WARM??.
Slow kinda SW swell sets showed.
My 2 best surfing friends showed and we had it virtually alone.
Caught about 10-12 nice loooooooong board waves. Very Very nice and un expected.
I love that ! !
Gotta keep it up 'til that Southie comes in Sun and then mid week..........

surf on.........

Weekend update

Saturday

Nada, zero, zilch, nothing.
There at 6am, looked 40 min. for a sign of rideable waves, saw none and split.
A drag, as I was still buzzin' from Friday's rekindled stoke.

Sunday

Scarce, rare, lean, and far between.
There at 6am, saw a few, WarmWaters looked like something was happening, but I chose to surf alone and south.
Caught one pretty quick. It was good enough to bring a couple surfers CLOSER to me, bah.
However on my next ride I got covered ! !
I wasn't expecting that. First time I think.
Dropped in on a left that came slightly outside and was riding low in the wave. I thought, "I'm not gonna make the section", so I tucked and stuck it out.
Then just when I thought I had made the section, I felt the thin lip of the wave hitting my back and outside shoulder and could hear it as well. I noticed the curl of the wave just in front of my face and the steepness of the small shoulder past that.
Cool, very cool. It's a step forward for sure. There is so much I look forward to with surfing.

surf on......

Bingo, BINGO ! I got B I N G O ! ! ! !

This Pic is of my Son on the cliff @ TerraMar
This story is about him really and what he does for his very proud Dad.

Finally, I got some of what I needed, whew ! I have been in a surf funk.
Tonight my son kinda talked me into going after work, I was going to repeat recent history and blow it off and then the little light came on and shone through." Don't do that again Bill, remember how you felt when you blew him off last time ?"
We went to our break and the line up was clogged on the inside with grommets on the short stuff. My immediate inclination was to go north or south of the crowd (packed paddle paranoia), then the little light came on again and shone through "Let your son choose, he is not in the funk you are in. "
I paddled out directly into the crowd, following my Son.
I turned on the first wave immediately, stood, stood down would be hoppers(2), and cut back on the snake(1), turned again and stepped to the nose arched back and rode.......ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh !

Got another 8-10 nice outsiders. Took "my" waves appropriately and came out cleansed and re-born from the funky monkey week of , well.... crap everything.
Thank you SON, you are my little light when things go dark, I did see it and follow it this time.

surf on.......

Yes....we went out today, a little guilty, a little NOT

Despite the fire situation, my son snuck out at 2-3 this afternoon.
He reports B A M ! ! !
Way, way outside fatso's , on the big board. Just what he needed after 3 weeks-o-nuthin.
He rated his session as one his of top ten surf's. Probably an 8

I got out for 1 hour about 5 pm caught 2 good waves ( not the waves of the day ) There were of course outrages Santa Ana offshores, smoke, and coughing on the paddle out .
I rate mine a 3.75
I want an additional 4.25 added to that. S o o n Please.


surf on.........

Would'a, Should'a, Could'a ,I got work to do

Friday, my son Jason says hey lets go. Well..."it's already 415 pm, the sun will be in our eyes, the internet cam doesn't LOOK that good, my back is a litttle sore and I want the epidural I got the day before to have a chance" etc., etc., etc.
So I talk us out of it. Why, why would I (<==== DUMB ) bail on any session with my son ? MiStAkE ! I missed time with with son. Friends and cohorts claim near EPIC for Friday eve.
Saturday, I, who wakes at 5 am, doink around until 7 and miss the best part of the morning according to the line up. Tough paddle out and some late drop fat ones. Got a small handful and was satisfied. As I was leaving the tide was changing and I suspect it got better.
Sunday, I, who wakes at 5 am, doink around until 7 and I wait until 9am so the tide can start to drop. Jason and I go and its tough paddle out with strong southern current. Oh there are big ones out there but hard to get unless perfectly in "the" spot for the peak and a paddle battle to get the drop. Then its all do it right and get out clean OR ELSE boooooom !
Jason 2.......Dad 1...... got home and looked at "surfshot".com and the pictures from dawn patrol showed incredible waves at the break of dawn.
MY HEAD, MY TIMING, and MY INSTINCTS are in need of an adjustment.
post script
I will make repair now.
1) Dominate at work so as to get out earlier for more late afternoon sessions.
2) Lose the 20 lbs. I've managed to gain back and get a new wet suit upon reaching that goal.
3) Never turn down an offer to surf it up with my son.
4) Get a little more confident so I don't shy from a paddle battle to get the waves.

surf on ..........................