PHAT Tuesday was P E R F E C T ! ! ! !

I have had this planned for weeks, Tues thru Thurs off from work.
Why.... ?
This Friday, Feb. 8th '08'
I'm going under the knife for a disc removal in my lower back (L4-L5)
This procedure will allow me to be free to walk and stand for more than 2 min at a time without anymore excruciating pain in my legs and back.
I needed a really great, recent surf day under my belt
before I went in for this ......
and I GOT IT in A C E S ! !
Jason, my son, and I arrived in at our spot @ 10 am.
Warm, clear, offshores, glassy shoulder to head high waves ...
We had it ALL ALONE to ourselves.
It was as EPIC as I've seen in, well , a looooong time.
We just got our 10'2" nose rider back after being in the shop for 4 weeks.
Big steep drops, long, long shoulders, FOREVER rides, (and I mean almost 100 yarders), something that just doesn't happen much ! ! WoW. We were just laughing and grinning from ear to ear the whole time, time after time ! !
I got tubed for real for the first time.
" FROG HOUSED" I yelled, as it happened, as my son went over the top and out of that wave just in front of me. LoL it was just amazing. Just as many waves as we wanted, unreal amazing stuff !
It was as perfect as I could hope for.....
I love surfing with my son Jason,This day is one I can hold onto, remember clearly, use to inspire myself to get up and back into the water after my back is repaired, ASAP.
I couldn't have asked for anything more perfect and timely, for that I am forever grateful.
I am ready for the surgery now, and ready get right back to doing what I love.
soon to Surf on........

WoW what a surprise ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

At 6am it was colder 'en sh*t and I'm kinda sore and slow and dopey. Thought. " nah, not gonna go.
Looked at Tammy on surfline and couldn't get a updated camera view...arrggghhh
( and I pay for that thing ).
Looked at Surfshot and voila, as I'm scanning the reports that follow down the coast I see
GOOD - GOOD- FAIR-FAIR-GOOD-GOOD etc. etc.

I think "go, go, go while you still can, you fool".
I go
and I GOT
ALOT
I GOT ALOT of great glassy shoulder-head high stuff.
My buddy and I had the whole spot to ourselves for 2.5 hours
PERFECTION ! ! ! ! ! ! oh yeah F R O G H O U S E ! !
woo hooooo hoooooooo !!!!!!
Bingo

Ah.... just what the Dr. Ordered

In @ 645 @ warmies. Now.... this isn't some awe struck newbies acct. The EIGHT WAVE SET that came through during my paddle out was shoulder to
over Head P I P E S ......peeling. It was beautiful but scary.
I GOT THROUGH THE PADDLE OUT WITH DRY HAIR...
AAAA MAAA ZZZZING.
My buddy Dave who started 5 minutes before me wasn't as lucky. I was outside for 10 minutes before he made it out. He got owned.
So
Things were good.... got a couple of drop in's then outs.
Not ideal, but I'm not getting pummeled , as I remembered the beach bombs that came through yesterday at the same time of day.
For a change, I aggressively thought about things as the line up took on a few more people, I saw a Peak to the south of every one where there was some shoulder to the right,
instead of the closeout scene where I was currently ( along with every one else ).
Paddled to it and wham...
Big steep drop then me dancing on a steep long barreling face with my slick Classic. Now the classic has issues. Doesn't like slow fatties, its gotta have some serious push,then speed to lighten up and perform. Today was the perfect day for that board. Many great waves and rides later I was teeth from ear to ear. It really seemed I could do no wrong.
It's like I got ALL the WAVES O THE DAY. It was awesome
and I so needed that !! Why did I need it so badly? Next issue !
F R E A K I N' A W E S O M E.
Thank you God for the skill and grace to do this, on this one day !
surf on...

Yesterday was ....different ,good, but different

Sat am I was expecting semi epic conditions. Got in @ 645 and got 2 keepers right away.
Beefy outsiders, kinda slow and deep in the morning glass. Offered up some great face until the close out. I recall "almost" making the last section but not quite, if I had made it that would have qualified for an epic ride. Got a few more, but as the tide rose(fast) things shut off quick, except for some truly thundering beach walls towards warm waters. That scene was not my game yesterday, its been 12 days since my last session and I'm just about over the flu coughing thing.
As I write,I'm preparing for today's DP, and as usual, am filled with stoke and hope.

Surf on...

WeekEnd update. Back in the saddle again

Saturday was... well OK. I hadn't been in the water for 2 weeks.
Which is way too long.
Got a few waves but nothing particularly memorable.
Sunday panned out way better.
Glassy and some waves as I stood on the cliff @ 7am DP
What was amazing is that Saturday saw 25 people in the water by the time I exited 10am.
SUNDAY, I WAS ALL ALONE as far as the eye could see. Because of that fact I paddled south to Igor's reef, all ALONE. Immediately caught about 4 waves breaking outside in the SUN and Glass, beautiful. All I could figure is Saturday was such a disappointment that every one just stayed out. As I surfed I was amazed at the utter solitude, except for seals and dolphins. After an hour, I saw 1 person in at Terra Mar. That person was doing the hundred yard paddle towards Igor's and myself. Oh well, I continued to get waves. When the surfer reached me, I recognized him to be my #1 surf buddy. COOL
We surfed for another hour all alone for as far as we could see. Loooooong rights and lefts. Beautiful Glassy, sunny, aloneness in head high peaks with long bowling chest high shoulders....... AWESOME..... nice way to break a 2 week surf fast.

surf on

Saturday Fun @ Tamarack South Jetty

DP today was good. As I drove by T a Rack I saw some nice stuff breaking and only 2 guys there. Continued south to Terra mar and met up with my buddy Dave. I suggested going back up north to T a Rack
( doing what I said I would do, and surfing different spots.)
Man, when we pulled up, some sweet sets were coming thru.
Got 2 or 3 real head high takeoffs with some real PUSH to them, and some long shoulder, so did Dave.
I did my one obligatory FUBAR- kook- out, on a way late takeoff , but thankfully turned right around a grabbed a couple more keepers.
This spot has been a major psych out for me, as 3 years ago I got caught where
I had NO business to be. I had none of that hanging over me today. I'm over it, finally !
The rising tide finally began to swallow the PUSH and them the shorties came out to play.
Spent 1 1/2 hours there then David had to bail. I made a good call on that one :)
Sooooo I headed back south to home break and paddled out for some more. The waves just weren't there though. Still managed a couple insiders and had great fun with some friends in the bright sun and glass..
A nice 4 hour session in total. Got home and paid the price for taking 3 days off without my wife, then disappearing for 4 hours this morning. I have some balancing to do......
p.s. I have seen pictures of myself surfing with my mouth open as if I'm saying ooooo and David commented on it today LoL.
1)I will attempt to shut the piehole,
2)stand to the rear of the board more, when appropriate, and
3)continue to surf at varied breaks......

surf on....

Friday Dawn patrol

Got out @ 7am. Very cold air, very cold. Hung out in the truck with the heater on reluctant to put on the wet cold suit. As I sat I saw that Warm Waters Jetty was breaking with some peely right shoulders, although small. It actually looked pretty fun and only 3 were out.
Very glassy where it was breaking and the tide on the rise from 3 ft. up to 5ft.@10am.
Put that wet cold sucker on and headed out.
My first ride was pretty good. I have only surfed that wave 3 times. I felt good about going to a different spot ( classic short board spot ), none of the usual munchkins were there.
Got a few more fun rides in the 2 hours out there. The tide was rising fast and killing my spot equally as fast.
Stoked to get glass, clear skies, and a few rides.
I have realized that when I surf my best still depends largely on where I'm surfing and on which board I'm on. I know my confidence is way higher @ Terra Mar home break.
I am deliberately going to force myself into more spots to broaden my surfing abilities.
I see now that it is important to becoming the surfer I want to be.
Im also going to try hanging back more to the rear of the board instead of taking my Tahitian war dance stance in the middle of the board all the time.
So much to learn. So much to try. I'm glad for that. Longboarding is a very intricate thing, I'm stoked on that as well !

surf on...

Wed Sunshine and Glassyness

Went out @ 12noon looking at offshore conditions and pure swimming pool glass.
Immediately decided to make the 100 yard paddle to Igor's reef as it was the only thing breaking really.
Water was reasonably clear considering the weather last week and it was cool. Sun was warm.
I really wanted to get some good waves but there just wasn't much power or form , which led me right down the kook road. I managed a few OK rides but many more kook outs. That Igor's wave at the yellow houses can be a real challenge, especially when its smaller.

Going out on a DP in the morning.... we'll see.

surf on...

Sunday was C O O L

Got out early on the DP and was treated to off shores , glass and bright blue skies. It was a littletidey so the beach break 'tween Warmies and Terra Mar was my call. Got a couple, then the spot" got a little crowded very fast.
Soo I paddled south to T Mar and got maybe 6more, 3 of those were really nice, glassy walls allowing me to make some speed filled turns.

Got my fill all alone......ahhhhhhhh.

Got out and up to the cliff and after 2 min in the truck towards home I was amazed to see the foothills totally dusted out in snow..... beautiful.

Surfing and snow ........ awesome, I love it ! ! !

surf on....

2nd day of 1st winter biggy Almost Magaine Cover

Day 2 of swell.... "Almost Magazine" picks me for the Cover shoot.
It was BIGGER, maybe twice the size of day one. I figure it was a 4 tier soup bowl. The waves were outside that and coming in sets of 5-10 waves with a clean-up of 2 in each set.
Well I guess I didn't pass this test. Suited up @ 350pm. Saw my friend Pat, he was trying to get out. Against my better judgement of paddle out spots, (small rip down @ palms) I chose going out close to a buddy( the buddy thing was a good choice).
I paddled for what seemed like 30 min. and got to within one wave of outside. I simply ran out of breath and strength at the worst time. I just couldn't hang, and turned. Pat made it outside. 5min. later there was a lull. I didn't make it long enough to catch that lull. I was so close.
I took this really hard.
Gonna fix some personal habits.
Gonna cross train for cardiopulmonary.

Hell I'm stoked I went at least, better than not for sure.
There's only one choice for me,
surf on...

1st day of 1st winter biggy

Well.... with what seemed to be
the whole world joined in a conspiracy to keep me outta the water,
I made it.
Cried like a little girl to get out of work @ 3:15.
Jason and I got in the water @ 3:50
Wave sets rollin' in.
Some nice steep drops, big fat swell under the feet, great weather, niiiiiiiiice.
Had to get out 45 min later to go to a show with wifey.
It was the best 45 min I've had in awhile, oh the show was good too !
My son got a killer right, and steeeeep drops.
I think I rode 5 waves in those 45 min. but the heart was pumpin and smile was out.
Good 1st day.
tomorrow.......
surf on...

Im ready

12/21/2005 TerraMar

I've been going out 200+ sessions each year for 2 years since Big Wed. 12/21/2005 for a reason.
That reason is because during that swell, I couldn't even get outside on the paddle out.
I am 51 years old. I have been surfing for 6 years now. The first 3 years of that I don't even count as "surfing", as I only went out maybe 20 times a year.
I'm never going to be like I was @ 25-35 years old. I will never have that level of strength and endurance again.
BUT I have significantly improved my paddle power and surfing intelligence since 12/21/05, and I'm really hoping I can get a chance to try myself out in the face of what was once way above my limit.

I hope
We will see.
Surf on......
P.S. as I am typing this the news reports a seasoned kayaker spotted a 25 foot shark in La Jolla cove today, probably just a ploy top scare everybody out of the upcoming swell... GULP

We've all read the forecasts

Hopefully the weather and swell line up together.


I have not been out now for 7 days. This is not ideal in my mind. I would like to have had a couple in before this WNW swell arrives, but work and weather have not made it easy.
Work still conspires against me for this upcoming week.

Plan A:
Monday PM warm up.
Tuesday PM in
Wednesday PM in
Thursday AM DP

I hope....
we all get some
I hope....
I can meet my expectations
surf on....

Hope

I read a forecasters blurb the other day on shurfshot forecast. A possible swell showing up this coming Monday 12/03/07
THAT forecaster eluded to a swell model looking similar to the one that came on 12/21/05 and permanently changed my life( at least to date)
I remember 12/21/05. Wednesday.
I remember my frustration of not even being able to make the paddle out 3 days later
( thank youGod, for I was nowhere near ready).
This is a gallery of that swell, read through it. All of the pages of photos are great.
The comments are equally as great.
http://photos.signonsandiego.com/gallery1.5/sdbigwaves?page=1

I'm willing
I'm able
I hope

surf on

ThanksGiving WeekEnd Update

Thurs. went to the In-laws in Thousand Oaks. Lotsa food,fun, and family. No traffic or hassles. Beautiful weather. It was good to see everyone and indulge.
Fri. Did a dawn patrol and it was swamped out big time
Sat. 6am "" " " " " " " "
Sat @ 11am returned and went out in the spring suit. Alot of texture and some small sets every 15 min. Got 2 good rides outta 5 rides. Hung out with the Ted in the water and had fun.
Sun. Went in at about 630am. Glassy, high tide, close outs. Air was cold in the am, felt like Winter.
Did a long paddle south to watch the high tide waves slam the cliffs, as not alot of "ride ables" were there for me. On the paddle back caught a few. My son had showed up on the cliffs with a camera ( uggg ). I always have a little different "minds eye" view of my form than what the photos show. Always room for the improvement, hehe, shish.

Oh yeah, Im thankful very much so.

I love Thanksgiving day.
Count 'em up and think about it. Take stock in it. Its really all there is.
It's the right thing to do. Appreciate actively all the good things we have.
I try to do it daily and never loose sight of what I'm thankful for.

My wife and son, and the time we have together.
My family here now and in the great beyond, and their love for me,their guidance, and wisdom.
My home, my job and that they are close to work and Surfing.
Thank God and nature, mother ocean, the sun, the wind, and the rain.
My friends.

S U R F I N G

OK surfing. Surfing has turned my life around. It is a large part of me now. I go as much as possible. It cleanses me each and every time. IT is my fun, challenge, fear, thrill, workout that keeps me healthy in mind and body. It plugs me into nature and God directly, every time I go, every time. Each time is different. Different friends and acquaintance's, different waves,weather, and conditions. Different challenges, and different responses from my head and body and emotions. The glass, the warmth,the cold, the victory at sea, the "at one -ness". The whole thing changes and changes again, always interesting, always different.
The peace, the successes, the defeats, the chance to always improve. Hope of an epic day. Finding and epic day when you least expect it....from nowhere.
God...the water, water,water,water, and its ability to always fill me with wonder and amazement. Surfing is so sensual, it floods the senses, heart and soul.
I could go on and on, LoL and I do, for that is what this blog is. I have read alot lately about what surfing IS and whether or not it defines people.
Surfing has defined me, not the culture so much, not surfline or the crowds or any of that crap. Not the blogs I read, or the products I choose.
Surfing is what I choose to do for the reasons above. Not for any ones approval, disapproval or otherwise. It is what I love, and for THAT reason

I AM A SURFER.

Happy Thanksgiving Day

surf on...........................................................................................................................

Monday Eve

Got out with my son Jason @ 4pm. Glassy, and still s o m e size on the sets.
Cool water and air. Few people out. Got alot of waves and so did Jason.
So great going with my boy. I love that ! ! ! Its a real gift. Its "priceless"
Got lefts and rights compliments of the North Westerner. Winters comin back and just in time.
I love the way that just when Ive had enough of wetsuits the summer comes.
Just when I'm sick and tired of summer crowds and "noise" the winter comes and thins it out real good.
It's all good, ALL OF IT ! ! !

surf on........

Got size ?

Sunday morning we got some. Wow its been awhile since I've stood on anything that high. I believe Labor day was he last time I felt like that.
Got in around 7, but was missing my son. He had stayed up too late the night before, so he surfed the sheets. Bummer, I am missing him surfing with me. It seems he goes with me less and less now. Im gonna work on that, quick.
Was tempted to go a little north to WWJ, but.........the right was packed and pounding people.
Watched a single surfer ( a confirmed wave magnet and a contrary )
surfing a spot solo and observed the wave direction. Yep, winter style. Paddled south of him a bit and got a few rights. Some folks then paddled out who failed to have their big cup of shut-the-f*&k up beforethey came to surf and I paddled another 50 yds. south for the quiet.
Took awhile, but as the tide moved lower I was rewarded with some sets that had some real size, although a bit walled.
I think I handled the walls better because of my evening surf sessions last week. Surf by "feel".
Finally got a big, fat, tall ,fast right. I've been waiting for that for a long while.
Glassy,steep, high and fast. Sa weeeeet.
Looking forward to more of that, maybe with the next SantaAna's !

surf on......

Great GREAT stuff

The last 3 Nights were magic.
Pure glass, few people, warm air, and cool water with a slight offshore.
Off in the distance a silhouette of the islands against the fire red glowing band on the horizon . To the west clear skies fade from red to light blue to navy, to purple to black, the crescent moon surrounded by a few stars. This happened @ 5:20 pm
All of this, all at once, was spectacular !
THEN the W a V e S come in ! !
Shoulder + peaks, pure glass with lots of long navel sized shoulders. Rides from outside to the sand, over and over and over. A long board, soul surfers dream.
H e a v e n !

WED EVE SESSION WAS ........

Almost identical to yesterday eve. Too crowded @ Tamarack with too many short boarders on waves closing out too fast.
Went to home break where the swell has 2/3rds less size and waves but......... because all the folks were at other breaks I got my 6-8 good waves all to myself. I polled surfers from north and south of me in very crowded lineups( more than 20 per peak ) and the wave count was the same or less than mine. So.........

surf on folks, surf on