Saturday / Sunday proved too much

Too much sewage.
Too many back to backs for this old dude to make it out.
Too much for all the locals to accompany me.


Sunday I gave it a go just me and the surf
no one else, except my love Laurie who is always with me in my heart.
Got half way out and gave up not because of weakness, but I just didn't feel right without SOMEBODY else in the water under those conditions....
It has something to do with almost dying 3 or 4 times in the hospital and not wanting to leave my wife and son. There ! I mean at least with a friend or two there would be some hope of surviving a tragedy out there,
Ah well.... I gave it a go and tested the water and myself.

surf on....

I dreamed of it last night

I dreamed that I was looking out the window of a second story burger place on Oahu but it overlooked Terramar. I was trying to get a cup of coffee from a hyperactive little dude behind the counter who wouldn't count my loose change and get my coffee. Sooo I counted it for him as I was sneaking peeks of the huge blue green surf behind me out the window.
All I could think was get my coffee I gotta get out there. Then I woke up,0530.

Made coffee and I am looking at Swamis on surflines HD cam thinking all I wanna do
was get my coffee, I gotta get out there. But I am sitting here.
0638 It's getting lighter now.
get my coffee, I gotta get out there.
0641 I see some dude in the water at Swamis, he gets up on a fairly organized head high wave. Couple of up n downs and then it flops on him, shooting god knows what straight into his sinuses.
0643 It's getting lighter now.
get my coffee, I gotta get out there.
Being restricted from surfing everyday SUCKS, that's what I hate about Winter. I can't get out from work in time to get into the water afterwards.
I want to go N O W ! ! !

I know, I know exactly what you ( anyone who reads this, if anyone ) are thinking.
0648 It's getting lighter now.
get my coffee, I gotta get out there.
0649
0650

Sunday was my day

After Friday and Saturday's inconsistency in wave delivery and my own abilities for those days, I get a good one on Sunday.
THE swell is coming on quite a bit bigger, with better shape and frequency.
Not too many people were out @ 645. My surf buddy Dave decided he wasn't in.
So as I am walking down, another friend, Squat, joins me and suggests we paddle out in a channel he knows of down the way a bit.
Jim is an experienced surfer and literally has surfed Terramar, for what I believe is every day for the last, well, MANY years.
So..... I take him up on his offer and wisdom. It was a great help, as I can get a bit squirreled
during paddle outs on big days. Made it out without events or issues in a rather relaxed way.
Paddled to just south of Ted's house and Jim just kept going North toward warm waters. We stayed about 150 yards apart and watched each other a bit.
Large waves would come through in 5 wave sets.
Few people were where I was.
I don't like sharing drops much when things get big, so this was good.
OK, so I get a couple great rights and a few lefts. The speed was pretty amazing on these waves.THE SIZE was great too....head high faces.
I chose high lines and middle of the board positioning for speed.
I did choose my 10'3" even though the inside part of these waves Sunday were nasty closeouts. I made this decision based on the thought that I would be able to get into the waves on the outside and much earlier than with other boards, or for that matter people. It gave me an undeniable edge making it easier for me to hand pick better shaped waves.
This worked perfectly on this day
I did surf well and I felt great about the whole thing.
I am working my way towards my goal again.
The photo below is the first photo of me surfing. My son took it.
It has special meaning to me as well.
It is me

I put it here as I am beginning to feel like "me" again.
I am leaving behind the surgical tragedy of almost 2 years ago and
once again improving my surfing abilities.

surf on...

Friday PM / Sat AM 01/08-09/2010

Friday had to race all day at work and then had to race to the ocean. In the water at 345pm. It was cleansing and some bigness was rolling beneath my friends and I.
Gone are the days where this was an everyday occurrence after work. My boss has moved me inland and to a place where afterwork sessions in winter are almost impossible .
Much has changed since 02/08/08.

Saturday proved to be pretty good as well. Got out a bit late for DP but had a few good rides.

Happy New Year......c'ya 09

Old business

12/20/09-Sunday Surfing with my son. He is off from school and work.I see him get some good ones.
It's been so long since we've spent much time together, in the water or out.
I tell myself this is the natural order of things,but I don't like it.
It is good to be surfing with my son again.

12/25/07-Friday-Christmas- Jesus Christ' birthday
and an observed Holiday from Surfing for myself.

12/26/09-Saturday Hyped WNW swell not in yet, at least not for our dawn patrol.
Jason, his friend Todd,and I are virtually skunked in 38 degree air and 53 degree water. Everywhere we go, waves are not.

12/27/09-Sunday The Hyped WNW swell is on, but the walls are nasty closeouts,
Jason,Dave and I, and many others watch from the cliffs

and psych out !

I get a bad feeling from this. I hate psych outs, although I do rely heavily on intuition. This one pissed me a little. Ah well that's the way she goes.

12/28/09-Monday psych out redemption. After work I hustle to get out and into the line up by 4pm.
I want some big stuff, and big stuff there was that night. A lot of in and outs for myself. Nice big close outs but it's good to feel power underneath you. Stay up high, go for a little ride, then out over the back before the wall comes down.
Took some crap from a good surfer, but he's such a loud little shit though.
He can't shut up and can't help it really.
Oh well, I backed him off as much as I should have, I suppose. I mean I am 53 and he's all of 15 or something. He's gonna be a great surfer one day.
Oh yeah.... !
That evening Dave and I were waiting for some waves with shoulders when 10 yards further out, a single 10foot rogue wave plows through. Dave is about 5 yards better than I and he somehow punches through the top 3/4 of this thing...
I, on the other hand, do NOT.
I am smacked hard off the board as I try to get over it.
I am driven down as my board is being picked up and taken over the falls.
I cannot tell up from down and the the board yanks me towards the beach maybe 7-10 yards.
I figure it out ,and come up for air.
WOW, that was a doozie.
I have taken some good ones, but this one really had some juice on it ! !
It's funny, but that is exactly what I needed.
You know what I mean?
Dave and I finally got a wave with some shoulder to it and rode it in.
It was a good night for us both.
That was the finish of 09

Mid Decemmmmburrrrr, Christmas and going into the 2010 do over.

Got to get out with Jason on a few days before Christmas as school is giving him a break. No more trunks now for awhile I suppose. A week ago Ted was beckoned from his 2nd story deck by my son and a friend an he bolted out in trunks. I of course was stuck at work. When I heard that one I got bent. One of those recent Santa Ana days mid morning small waves but trunkin it.....ahhhh.
Jason,his buddy Todd and I tried on Saturday, in the cold but really could'nt snag anything. THere was a pre-swell 20 minutes apart wave that would show up but that was it.
Later that day, more came thru but I was Christmasing with the family, a good thing.
Sunday am we go out too cold too closed out, alida,pat went I grossed about it all day.
so Monday was gonna be an early out of work or should I say get outta work on time for a change day. Paddled out with Dave @ 345 and witnessed some true power under and "over" me. SMart ass kid and a great couple 6 foot in and outs a 10 foot thumper that sent me under and backwards about 10 yards wondering which way was up. Finally a nice head and shoulder ride in with Dave. We laughed about it and finished well

Merry Christmas to All

Very Cool Wednesday PM session

This has been an interesting
few weeks for me. I have been struggling with work in setting up a new specimen collection office for a large San Diego Medical Laboratory. I designed it from the ground up.
First time for that.
All eyes on me.
Finally we opened and it is going great on day 4.
However, LOTSA STRESS leading up to this, and not much surf time, which is a tough combo.
The weekends have been ok with a few really good sessions sparsely mixed in. Notably, witnessing my son Jason getting some great stuff and riding well. Myself getting more waves per session than usual .
Tonight was a hoot.

Very stressed and ready to go, I raced out at 4;30 pm and paddled into some very large sets.
Stoked, I waited for the right set and picked an overhead right that got my heart a pumping.Ride an ever increasing shoulder for a bit, turned as it was about to close out , and rode in into 1 foot of water and hopped of at 5;20 pm. PERFECTION.
Just what we ordered........ ah big waves of winter.
Gonna be a fun week if the weather holds.

surf on

nice redemption sessions

After Sunday's ..... well after Sunday I was treated to an after work/evening surf with my son.

Wed.
I snuck outta work at 3 and got out and in the water by 330
There was some surf and the weather was perfecto.
We each got some glassy rides and saw our friend Don...groovy dude and good surfer.
Sat.
Waited until 10 am to go out cuz the tide was @ 6 feet. That was a mistake as I was told by a few. Paddled out to mostly peaks without shoulder, but managed to get a couple decent right shoulders out of it. Weather was great and I was satisfied.

so far so good
we'll see what Sunday brings

Welcome Winter Waves ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Saturday's dawn patrol began in the water @ 6am
with a wetsuit(first time since march)
Dave and I got a few although they were kinda tough to get into.
Had some nice winter rights on the smaller board and was moving around pretty well.
Sunday's dawn patrol began in the water @ 6 am,

Today it would be very very different for me ! !
I got "worked" on my paddle out,
more "worked" than I care to be "worked". I got "worked" for 10 min.
I was exhausted when finally got outside.
The sets that came through early on were beautiful. Big sets.
Big, glassy, deep green 2-3 wave sets way outside.
Big and glassy with spray blowing back from the peaks.
Some had great long shoulders. Some were close out BOMBS.

BEAUTIFUL

The first set a guy handed to me,
but I was still recovering from the paddle out.
The second set I would back out of,
still too tired.
The third set I relinquished to an another,
who rode it fine, fast, and furious to the right for a good 50 yards.
The fourth set he and I both paddled for. He was to my left.
I backed out thinking he was going right again,
but
he did go left, as a courtesy, I am sure.
Missed another.
Miscommunication.
On the big stuff especially, I am uncomfortable with 2 or 3 of us dropping close, in one wave.
I don't like to worry about the other folk should I mess up on a bad close out.
I don't like to worry about the other folk should they mess up a bad close out.
To make it worse, I got SUPPED twice from 1 SUP.
From 15 yards further out than Frikin OAHU. Supper's gack !!
We should segregate ourselves a bit in my humble O
To make my VERY Long story a bit shorter,
today I surfed
like a puss.

Luckily there will be more semi epic days, and opportunities, God willing!

surf on

Trick or treat.......

T R E A T
It is funny how we all perceive the same "thing" differently.

As I was walking towards the beach today, Sunday, with Laurie and Jason I saw a couple of friends. One was just signaling in the distance to get out of the water as if it wasn't good.
My other friend said as long as your hear to just paddle around it will be OK.
What I saw was...
1)My wife Laurie had joined me, a rarity and always pleasant experience, despite the fact that it takes "longer" to get ready and go.It is so good to have her share this thing.
2) I was getting a rare chance ( nowadays ) to surf with my son Jason.
3) Air temp about 75. Sun bright and very warm on the skin.
Very clear blue green water. I see the eel grass swaying in the swell below me, lots of fish, exposed winter reef and sand bars.
4) Trunks still, yeah the water is cool, but with no wind and bright sun, it rocks.
5) Small little waves rolled in. Jason and I both caught a good amount and rode faces into 3 feet of water.
Jason had a couple really nice waves.
I had a couple more, but I am in better practice right now.

It was a wonderful day. My son was proud of me. My wife was proud of me.
WE were together in midst of a beautiful day.
I felt like royalty, standing up in knee high waves the color of.... well, you know.

surf on...

Beautiful, tropic Monday PM and I get......

SCHOOLED

Kinda flat looking. I decide to go in anyways even though my "buds" bailed on me before I got there.
Got to know a long time T Mar local and got a wave or 2. After Paul SR. split, there came 2 GREAT surfers whom I love to watch.
Along with them, came some swell as the tide changed.
These two would catch every bump or roller that came through, and rode em well and were very stoked on the weather, conditions and vibe. I was super stoked on the conditions and the dolphin pods around us. I got a couple, and then I started a real fun thing.
I started to F* up everything I did.
It was funny actually.
I got owned, and I am the one who ownethed myself.
Then Chuck came out and I proceeded to miss virtually every wave I went for.
As I was getting out I thought "aaahhhhh it's lunch recess at last."

No worries.
I get that sorta thing, it is actually what keeps me so stoked, in a way.
Sheesh, just yesterday I was.........

surf on ...

Sunday AM....... I GET MY 1st SHACK !

The Photo is of Chuck. Chuck has Terramar wired.


Chuck and I start the paddle out together and as we are timing the waves to get out

We are floatingbetween Paul and the beach, as he is getting tubed, beautifully tubed.
Paul is in the photo below.. NOT"the tube" but Paul, none the less.

As Chuck and I watch him come out of the green room he raises his hands in a victory "touchdown" kinda thing.
I was stoked just watching him in that pipe so close up, from the inside.
As I paddled by him I was kidding and said, "Oh I thought you were on your SUP"
He just smiled and said ,"Nah, this day is all about the Tube Fest"
Well.... he was right
and the time was finally right for little old me !

I caught a few nice outside to inside speeders and watched others gettin' covered and then coming out. There was some great surfing goin on this morning.
** THEN I got an outside right, stayed with it to the inside, started speeding up then squatted down and dug my hand into the face...
next thing I know, all I can see is white water, and I am in and covered up, but still flyin down the face. After a few seconds I came out, could see the shoulder again, stood and flipped over the back side of the wave. S T O K E D ! !
Chuck saw it, AND a woman happened to be taking pictures
of the only guy out there in TRUNKS (yours truly of course), so I may get a shot of that.
Anyways, it's etched in my head and heart forever.
1st good cover up ! !
hell yeah

surf on...

Friday night , Saturday Morning, and Life

Friday night and Saturday Morning were good.
PM surfing was with my son.
It is ALWAYS good surfing with my son.
JASON+FRIENDS+WAVES+TRUNKS+NATURE+EXERCISE=G O O D

Surfing with Jason is an integral part of the whole scene for me, although that has been changing, as all things must, I suppose? We surf together less and less. I dot think that will be the case for very long and I look forward to retirement and surfing often with him and his family if I am so fortunate and blessed.
These last 2 years have had a lot of changes for me and my family.
Yes, there were some good changes.
Most notably were the strengthening of my relationship with the love of my life, Laurie.
Also the addition of "friends" into my life.
Plus the building relationship with GOD and nature.
There were other ones that weren't so good, but I fight them physically and mentally everyday. Family, friends, God, and mother ocean will get me through the bad ones.

Saturday AM was good. Got out with my friends Dave and Pat although the waves were hard to get into I seem to be surfing well and better than before.
We had fun as usual.

Wed Pm was nice stuff.....

High tailed it from work to home.
Home to break. 5pm
Wife.
Friends.
Waves,waist to shoulder stuff.
Trunks.

Many waves , rights and lefts.
Good rides were had by all.
I had many more waves than a typical session..... AGAIN !.
Sunset
Green Flash
Dinner

Repeat...... if lucky

surf on....

Saturday PM very surprising and prolific

Saturday PM was very surprising and prolific.

Did not do a dawn patrol as the high tide scene was in effect.
Worked around the house trying
to earn a "get out in the water" pass
to go afternoon surfing at the tide pull out.
Well...
this worked out fine ! ! !
My better half, Laurie, went with me, brought a chair and sat and watched me surf long enough to actually see me get 5-8 waves.
This only took about 15 minuets.
I would get many, many more this VERY FOGGY afternoon.
NO ONE WAS THERE.... well let me clarify this to crystal,
there were 3 other people, spread out with 20 yards between us
and a proliferation of super glassy, frequent, shoulder high waves coming through.
TRUNKS
I had no rest time between long lefts and rights.
It was simply AMAZING.
Laurie then went for a walk while I spent myself surfing in virtual solitude.
I mean solitude.
I mean spent myself.
The fog-mist was so thick, I think no one figured it would be good.
Maybe they couldn't see anything on the cameras,
or... maybe it was just my turn.
Oh Yeah, I stood feet together,on the nose,diving board style,
at the top 3/4's of a shoulder high wave and
just rode it....
rode it long and good.
I am proud and humbled at once.
I am now surfing better than before the --------------------------->
nightmarish surgical, near death, sooo set-back, bullshit #*$^@ crap ! !
Haaaa
Thank you God.
Thank you all that helped me and are still helping me get through this !
surf on

Friday Pm ..............not as LARGE

but I had a good time.
1) My son JASON was with me in the water.
2) Other friends were there as well.
3) THE WEATHER AND SURFACE CONDITIONS were perfect.
4) T R U N K S
5) I caught several pretty good rides on both boards. This was the first time I have been on the small single for quite awhile and that was nice.
6) I actually out surfed most the crowd :)

THURSDAY PM WAS.....L A R G E

Got out after work and in about 4:30 or 5 pm.
Decided to go with the big board as I was not confident about my abilities to paddle out so well yet.
TRUNKS as it was still warm and I didn't need the restraint of anything on my shoulders ...
With the tide coming in fast and high I had to wait a bit in the soup, then made it out with only a few "dive for life's" on the way.
I sat waaaaay the hell outside,
with BIG ROLLING SWELLS passing under myself,
Pat, David and Kyle.
Those big fat swells slap a permagrin on me like nothing else really.
It's wild.
I let 2 waves go that I should have gone for.
one cuz someone else next to me was going for it
( I don't wanna eat anything other than dinner tonight )
and missed the other just shooting the shit with a friend.
( There are always more, right ? ),
After some time. the next "Bill" wave came through about a minuet after I was pondering all the obstacles there would be on the inside, if I did get a fast big one.
Oh well...... From far, far outside
I went, dropped far, stood, rode up and down the face, moving fast through the short boarders strewn the length of the wave....
I was laughing out loud the whole way,
had a great ride into 2 inches of water,
stepped off, and called it a night.
BINGO ! !
hope you all got some too
surf on

Last night I dreamed of BiGWavES

Going front side, doin mean rail grabs to get out of the late take offs.
Going back side, doin mean pig dogs to get thru and around the white water and onto the steep shoulders.
Dropping down the peak, cutting deep bottom turns and slowly standing on the way down the line.

I am hoping the forecasters are right, that the shape is there, and that my arms and body are strong enough now, just to get the opportunity.

I used to go out without too much concern,
pre surgical crap------>
Now thing are a little different for me, but I won't ever give up
getting back to square 1.

we'll see
surf on...

After work sessions, did I even go to work?

Wednesday PM
After work sessions, did I even go to work?
That's how it still is.
I don't even remember work immediately as I enter the water.
For another 5-8 years ( God willing I'll retire to a less stressful scene ) I hope that's how it will be. I won't even remember work immediately as I enter the water.
It's like playing hooky, its like a big washing machine for my brain, 5 minuets in and it's like all the troubles of the day are GONE, POOF, VANISHED, nuthin left but water, sun, waves, flying,
yep ......
Last night got calls that there were some waves at super low tide around 5 pm. I figure the in push will offer some up. It Did !
David says Pat says, so Dave is hoping for a repeat of the night before when were all in the water until 715 pm and its dark.
Kyle was there.

Wasn't quite so good but....we got some

yep ......

surf on