Would you say it calls to you ? ?

It does to me. The ocean calls to me. I've heard others say it in print, on screen and in person.
Isn't that way cool. That the Ocean calls to us in the way it does.
Sounds screwy right ?
No.
Jason was hearing it. A favorite photo from Big Wed 12/21/05
P.S. My bad... that photo is from 12/21/05...........
hmm first day of Winter too !
It was on that day that I knew I wanted to be on a 15-20 foot wave...,
that changed who I was. It was that day that I became so permanently stoked
...

Winter Waves Today

After hearing all that talk of Gray and cold I went out this morning. Put on the suit for the first time. Cold water and air felt good. Saw Chuck and Dan get some sweet ones from outside in.
Paddled out no problems.
Paddled for about 5 waves with my friends, but the abdominal wounds were yelling at me so no stand ups today.
People were askin about my son Jason and I was missin' him out there today.
Still got stoked as some shoulder highs came through.
Good Day... no pain right now, just afterglow. I figure it'll be about a year
until I can actually "surf" again. Hell...... that's a blink of an eye really, the way time has been going for me.
I'm a HAPPY BOY...I'm a HAPPY BOY.... hey init great when things are going yer way
hey hey.......ba.. rump bump bump bada bada ba, hubba hubba hubba hubba hubba.

surf on...

WoW Just beautiful... All my friends were out

Despite 60 people spread between the beach and the reef proper... today my experience was incredible.
Didn't stand up once. Too many freakin people for my battered body to compete with.
Did see folks I haven't seen in.... well since the Disaster ( surgery).
Rick ( the drunk monkey ), Glen ( has chunks of guys like me in his stool)
Ted( hair is still perfect and dry), Paul, Paul ( snake guy), Steve,
Pat (in the Hat), Aleta, Perry, Bobby, it was like a welcome home party for me.
Solitary, lone wolf me, saying howdy and getting welcome backs from all these fine surfers.
Pure glass, sunny,clear,warm, bros and the fine wahinis', PERFECT

thank you all....... ALL of ya

surf on ...

It has been 14 days since...

I got worked 2 weeks ago..... my abdominal scarring was micro torn and something crappy happened to the mess S-1,L-5,L-4,L-3 (rods, screws,misplaced plastic spacers and erroneous bone fusion) that is now my back, when I was pitched off a closed out 4 footer 0n the inside.
Very disappointing that just THAT has hurt so long.....

I continue to dream of dropping down a 15 footer in my life.
If I think of it a certain way I cry. If I think that this will not happen now because of this botched up surgery and all that has come to pass, I get very sad and very pissed !
This is my dream, this is my passion, this is what I must try to achieve.
I will find my way to it, I will find my way there !

I intend to paddle out this Saturday and stand again.
I will surf on...

Got worked , yep, I did

So out into the sunny warmth, and glassy blue for another try...
I head out with my son
and run into Eileen (tri~athelete and ex work surf team member)
which was a pleasant surprise.
Stood up and RODE the first wave.... nice
Stood up and fell on the second wave.... cool
(only was able to stand once at last time out)
Stood up, got closed out and got Bitch Slapped HARD
I knew that was gonna happen and I have wondered how it
might affect me and my "issues".
Well It HURT and I haven't been back for 4 days .....
I figure I'll be ready for more in about 4 more.....

Everyday is better and better even if its worse as a result of things like the above..
make sense ! ?

After 8 months of a whole lotta Bad, I stand up and surf.

Last night under a clear, blue and purple canopy, bright orange sun sinking below the water line, with my son and 2 best friends with me, and watching over me in the line up, I paddled through the glass in only my trunks, caught a wave and stood up.
It was hard.
It hurt.
But not as much as my last 2 attempts. In fact it hurts no more, at all as I write.
My friends Pat and Dave, and my son Jason, were as stoked as I.
There were some A frames and peelers there last night and all got good waves.

Before my surgery( 8 months ago), Pat used to sometimes ask,
as we sat outside in the setting sun
"Bill, what the HELL are you grinning like that for?"
(some of my best sessions were with no waves at all... just the ocean, weather, and friends, you know, the sensual stuff)

Last night, all he said was,"There's that SMILE again !".
At that moment I realized that I could return to what I once loved, that it is actually possible.

Thank you Laurie for understanding, supporting, and loving me.
Thank you Jason for inspiring me, I love you for that son, and more.
Thank you Lori M. and Michelle for your endless support of myself and Laurie.
Thank you Pat and Dave for ALWAYS being there.
Thanks fellow bloggers and surfers for your well wishes and inspirations.
Thank you God and Mother Ocean !
Surf on..............I'm in.

Tried to POP ...but only POOPED

Went out Wed.Pm after work for a trunks and sunset try. Weather and water were beautiful but I could not yet pop to my feet. Still loved being in the OCean but..
Try again next week.....

ANOTHER GIANT BOWL OF
PATIENCE
PLEASE ! !

surf on...
I'm going to be there soon ! ! ! $#%@##@$% ing #$@%

Work IS good for SURFING ? ?

Well blow me down. After 8 months out of the water and work, it seems my 1st week back at work has helped strengthen my core and abdomen a little. After my pool rehab session today I feel the best yet. I was popping up off the pool floor, jumping off the pool floor, and launching off the side of that pool with virtually No incisional discomfort. SLOW and STEADY will WIN this race.
I now believe I will not only be able to paddle out again but,
WILL STAND AND SURF some time in the next 2-4 weeks. I thought for sure I had herniated or torn my abdominal wall around one of my incisions, I now believe otherwise.
I still intend to listen very carefully to my poor old body and let it tell me what to do but in the same light my body is responding to my efforts almost daily SO ........... keep a good thought and soon I should be back in action
surf on.....
I'll be there soon ! !

I'm back @ work today,,,YES ? ? ? ?

After 8 months I going back this morning to work.
F/T no mercy.
It's an intense job in the laboratory. My boss is super INTENSE,
and he likes me the same way I guess.

I am not going that way this time around.

I'm going at my speed and intensity. I have learned a few things, thank you.
It is good to have a gig when you need one, that's for sure. I am grateful for that, but I am different now and that is that.

The one thing I am really looking forward to about going back to work after what I have been through is. . . . .
It drives me straight to the water for release and relief ! ! ! !

surf on....
I'll be there in awhile

So Bill...... What's new? Are you OK ?

I'm doing well, thanks. Things are progressing along. It seems very slowly to me but everyone else says I'm ahead of the game as far as rehab goes. Right now my abdominal incisions are preventing me from "popping up" on a wave right now, as in my last post. I haven't been "out" only the one time. I have been practicing "popping up" off the floor of the gym pool to better strengthen those muscles. So I am planning another attempt. I fear that I may have an abdominal tear so I am going very slowly on things that cause pain at that area... my former stoma ( exit ) site.
I wont update the blog until I go into the ocean. I AM getting my position back at work soon and this causes me both happiness, relief, and anxiety.

more to come as I make my way back to the ocean...

surf on....
I'll be there in awhile :)

My 1st paddle out in 7 months ... Ahhhhh

It has been a full 7 months since I was in the water.
Feb. 7th, 2008 I was a 225 session a year, intermediate surfer of 6 years, finally in half assed surfing shape, surfing with my son Jason and friends, as much as possible.
Feb. 8th, 2008 I had a disaster surgery that left me unable to move for 40 some days, almost leaving this world ( against my will ) 4 times in a 5 week period. During that time it was uncertain if I would live, let alone be able to return to ANY activities I once enjoyed, such as walking. I believe injury specifics are outlined in some of my previous posts below.

Yeah

Today, Sept. 2nd, 2008 Jason and I paddled out at about 645am into warm and very glassy, clear water, blue morning skies, sunshine, dead calm winds , It was beautiful. No problems paddling out. I was able to arch and paddle, and I was afraid that that wasn't going to be possible any longer. I tried to paddle into 4 waves and managed to get up to my knees on one of those, but could get no further. My abdominal wounds/scars said NOT YET ! ! ! This was actually more than I expected to be able to do, so I am STOKED.
I now know that once my abdominal wall and ab. muscles are back 100% I will continue to surf on, and on as long as I can. The paddle out today was really miraculous considering all.
I have the amazing stoke in my belly again burning. I know what will happen as soon as I stand.
Today I was in tears afterwards, it was so good. I was aching to get in the water and it was just so good. Thank you God and Mother Earth. Thank you Laurie, my love, for bringing me back to life. Thank you Jason for inspiring me. Thank you family and friends for keeping the faith, deliberately.

I am so thankful.....
post script
WED morning ( day after ) My arms hurt.... ALOT ! ! !
surf on...

Michael Phelps I'm NOT

It has been 4 weeks since my "reconnect" surgery and I am rehabbing. TO date this has consisted of walking and working a little bit in the pool.
Walking around the house for the first week home then gradually working up to about a 2 mile walk per day with a few hills.
My abdominal wound sealed up so0 for the last week I have been in the pool at the gym doing minimal resistance rehab. I have almost no abs AGAIN and the spot where my "bag" used to be on the abdomen is still sore from the surgery.
I actually did swim for about 5 yards today.
I have far to go. I will go and get there. I want to get on my board and paddle. I will do this this week.

For those who are curious, I can't report on my back until my abdomen is healed and strong for obvious reasons.


surf on.....

onward and upward

got outta the hospital in 6 days... the operation was successful and without incident or disaster. I'm going to have about 35 staples removed from my abdomen tomorrow.
Then I will start the down the road to recovery. I expect that road to be somewhat painful and difficult and take the challenge...personally.
I expect in a year I will be close to as whole as I'm gonna get. Maybe 2-5 years to be completely over it all.
I dream of walking on the water again. Digging deep into the clear blue green warmth. Breathing that air/water mixture and having it lite my insides on fire, on FIRE.
There is so much to love in this life and I do LOVE IT, all of you and all of IT.
HA

Eeeettts time to goooo now

Yes folks I'm going back to the hospital
to get my guts put back together this coming Tuesday 7/22/08.


I will walk outta there in 4 -6 days (5 days)
and get on with living,
getting back into the water and onto my board(s),
with my son and friends at my side and my wife swimming near by.
I will inspire her to learn to surf as well.
It has been almost 6 months since my disaster surgery,
and just now I am almost feeling normal.
I have been able to go to physical therapy for the last 3 weeks. The pool workout has been really great for me and I am just getting some upper body and core muscles going right now.I started that 5 months late because of all the complications.
My wife and son got me into the ocean for the first time since Feb. and man that was a pretty cosmic feeling.
Thanks for that you guys ! !

So keep a good thought for me as I want to join you all in the ocean very soon...

HOPE

Well it has been several months since I have surfed last. Luckily my last 2 surfs we're "un-forgettable" See below 2 posts down.
I have 2 more surgeries to go and a host of other issues but
I am HOPING I will be able to go out and paddle the 10'3" around in August-September, in the warm glass, the very WARM, SUNNY, windless day, with CLEAR, GLASSY, WARM, LIVING WATER, with DOLPHINS and MY SON, and MY FRIENDS...........
I hope

hope

50 stoke-less days as of FEB 8th 2008

At my last writing I was headed into a back surgery to fix unbearable sciatic pain in my left leg.

That surgery and what has followed was nothing short of HELL.

During the surgery my large intestine ruptured, leaking bacteria, fungus,yeast, and fecal matter into my abdominal cavity,causing 5 different infectional holds in my abdomen.
This was undetected for 5 days, except by myself and my wife.
After a day or two I should have been over the severe surgical pain, with normal bowel function, and getting up to stand and take short walks.
But I was in MORE pain.
I kept hitting the push button for more I.V. pain relieving dilaudid( morphine).
In fact, I remember being told, I hit that thing 75 times in a day.
( It will only deliver 1dose per half hour ).
They thought I was abusing it, when in fact the pain of the rupture and its consequences were simply un-bearable. As my belly ballooned out and turned purple, I mystified Physicians as a CAT scan at 3 days showed nothing abnormal. By this time my stomach began to bloat and turn purple. The pain was unbearable. I just stayed in a narcotic induced dreamstate.
Day 5 post surgery is when they saw the infections and rupture on CAT scan #2.
A gastroenterologiost told my wife I was in serious trouble and an emergency Colenectomy and "clean-out" of my abdomen would have to be done.

By the 5th day it became obvious to my ace team of physicians that something was wrong.

They sliced open my belly and removed a good portion of my large intestine. Sucked out as much of the bad as they could.
I was given a colostomy bag.
My stomach couldn't handle that stress and began bleeding.... another surgery.
As I lay motionless for some weeks I got a blood clot in my lungs
About a week after my first bleed out my stomach once again began to bleed out, another surgery.
All in all I had 5 surgeries and 3 major procedures.
I lay on my back for 40 days. I lost 40% of ALL of my muscle.
I have drains coming out of my side. I have a 10 inch wound that's almost healed on my stomach along with the colostomy bag.I am still taking 3 antibiotics.
I have to go back and have back hardware removed because of infection.
I have to go back to reverse the colostomy so I can poop outta my butt again.

I figure 2 more months and the worst will be over.
I am so happy to be alive and at home,
THIS IS MY S T O K E for right now,

Surf on all , surf on.... it will be another 6 months until I get out for a paddle, maybe less. Surf on for me and all fallen surfers.

PHAT Tuesday was P E R F E C T ! ! ! !

I have had this planned for weeks, Tues thru Thurs off from work.
Why.... ?
This Friday, Feb. 8th '08'
I'm going under the knife for a disc removal in my lower back (L4-L5)
This procedure will allow me to be free to walk and stand for more than 2 min at a time without anymore excruciating pain in my legs and back.
I needed a really great, recent surf day under my belt
before I went in for this ......
and I GOT IT in A C E S ! !
Jason, my son, and I arrived in at our spot @ 10 am.
Warm, clear, offshores, glassy shoulder to head high waves ...
We had it ALL ALONE to ourselves.
It was as EPIC as I've seen in, well , a looooong time.
We just got our 10'2" nose rider back after being in the shop for 4 weeks.
Big steep drops, long, long shoulders, FOREVER rides, (and I mean almost 100 yarders), something that just doesn't happen much ! ! WoW. We were just laughing and grinning from ear to ear the whole time, time after time ! !
I got tubed for real for the first time.
" FROG HOUSED" I yelled, as it happened, as my son went over the top and out of that wave just in front of me. LoL it was just amazing. Just as many waves as we wanted, unreal amazing stuff !
It was as perfect as I could hope for.....
I love surfing with my son Jason,This day is one I can hold onto, remember clearly, use to inspire myself to get up and back into the water after my back is repaired, ASAP.
I couldn't have asked for anything more perfect and timely, for that I am forever grateful.
I am ready for the surgery now, and ready get right back to doing what I love.
soon to Surf on........

WoW what a surprise ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

At 6am it was colder 'en sh*t and I'm kinda sore and slow and dopey. Thought. " nah, not gonna go.
Looked at Tammy on surfline and couldn't get a updated camera view...arrggghhh
( and I pay for that thing ).
Looked at Surfshot and voila, as I'm scanning the reports that follow down the coast I see
GOOD - GOOD- FAIR-FAIR-GOOD-GOOD etc. etc.

I think "go, go, go while you still can, you fool".
I go
and I GOT
ALOT
I GOT ALOT of great glassy shoulder-head high stuff.
My buddy and I had the whole spot to ourselves for 2.5 hours
PERFECTION ! ! ! ! ! ! oh yeah F R O G H O U S E ! !
woo hooooo hoooooooo !!!!!!
Bingo

Ah.... just what the Dr. Ordered

In @ 645 @ warmies. Now.... this isn't some awe struck newbies acct. The EIGHT WAVE SET that came through during my paddle out was shoulder to
over Head P I P E S ......peeling. It was beautiful but scary.
I GOT THROUGH THE PADDLE OUT WITH DRY HAIR...
AAAA MAAA ZZZZING.
My buddy Dave who started 5 minutes before me wasn't as lucky. I was outside for 10 minutes before he made it out. He got owned.
So
Things were good.... got a couple of drop in's then outs.
Not ideal, but I'm not getting pummeled , as I remembered the beach bombs that came through yesterday at the same time of day.
For a change, I aggressively thought about things as the line up took on a few more people, I saw a Peak to the south of every one where there was some shoulder to the right,
instead of the closeout scene where I was currently ( along with every one else ).
Paddled to it and wham...
Big steep drop then me dancing on a steep long barreling face with my slick Classic. Now the classic has issues. Doesn't like slow fatties, its gotta have some serious push,then speed to lighten up and perform. Today was the perfect day for that board. Many great waves and rides later I was teeth from ear to ear. It really seemed I could do no wrong.
It's like I got ALL the WAVES O THE DAY. It was awesome
and I so needed that !! Why did I need it so badly? Next issue !
F R E A K I N' A W E S O M E.
Thank you God for the skill and grace to do this, on this one day !
surf on...

Yesterday was ....different ,good, but different

Sat am I was expecting semi epic conditions. Got in @ 645 and got 2 keepers right away.
Beefy outsiders, kinda slow and deep in the morning glass. Offered up some great face until the close out. I recall "almost" making the last section but not quite, if I had made it that would have qualified for an epic ride. Got a few more, but as the tide rose(fast) things shut off quick, except for some truly thundering beach walls towards warm waters. That scene was not my game yesterday, its been 12 days since my last session and I'm just about over the flu coughing thing.
As I write,I'm preparing for today's DP, and as usual, am filled with stoke and hope.

Surf on...

WeekEnd update. Back in the saddle again

Saturday was... well OK. I hadn't been in the water for 2 weeks.
Which is way too long.
Got a few waves but nothing particularly memorable.
Sunday panned out way better.
Glassy and some waves as I stood on the cliff @ 7am DP
What was amazing is that Saturday saw 25 people in the water by the time I exited 10am.
SUNDAY, I WAS ALL ALONE as far as the eye could see. Because of that fact I paddled south to Igor's reef, all ALONE. Immediately caught about 4 waves breaking outside in the SUN and Glass, beautiful. All I could figure is Saturday was such a disappointment that every one just stayed out. As I surfed I was amazed at the utter solitude, except for seals and dolphins. After an hour, I saw 1 person in at Terra Mar. That person was doing the hundred yard paddle towards Igor's and myself. Oh well, I continued to get waves. When the surfer reached me, I recognized him to be my #1 surf buddy. COOL
We surfed for another hour all alone for as far as we could see. Loooooong rights and lefts. Beautiful Glassy, sunny, aloneness in head high peaks with long bowling chest high shoulders....... AWESOME..... nice way to break a 2 week surf fast.

surf on

Saturday Fun @ Tamarack South Jetty

DP today was good. As I drove by T a Rack I saw some nice stuff breaking and only 2 guys there. Continued south to Terra mar and met up with my buddy Dave. I suggested going back up north to T a Rack
( doing what I said I would do, and surfing different spots.)
Man, when we pulled up, some sweet sets were coming thru.
Got 2 or 3 real head high takeoffs with some real PUSH to them, and some long shoulder, so did Dave.
I did my one obligatory FUBAR- kook- out, on a way late takeoff , but thankfully turned right around a grabbed a couple more keepers.
This spot has been a major psych out for me, as 3 years ago I got caught where
I had NO business to be. I had none of that hanging over me today. I'm over it, finally !
The rising tide finally began to swallow the PUSH and them the shorties came out to play.
Spent 1 1/2 hours there then David had to bail. I made a good call on that one :)
Sooooo I headed back south to home break and paddled out for some more. The waves just weren't there though. Still managed a couple insiders and had great fun with some friends in the bright sun and glass..
A nice 4 hour session in total. Got home and paid the price for taking 3 days off without my wife, then disappearing for 4 hours this morning. I have some balancing to do......
p.s. I have seen pictures of myself surfing with my mouth open as if I'm saying ooooo and David commented on it today LoL.
1)I will attempt to shut the piehole,
2)stand to the rear of the board more, when appropriate, and
3)continue to surf at varied breaks......

surf on....

Friday Dawn patrol

Got out @ 7am. Very cold air, very cold. Hung out in the truck with the heater on reluctant to put on the wet cold suit. As I sat I saw that Warm Waters Jetty was breaking with some peely right shoulders, although small. It actually looked pretty fun and only 3 were out.
Very glassy where it was breaking and the tide on the rise from 3 ft. up to 5ft.@10am.
Put that wet cold sucker on and headed out.
My first ride was pretty good. I have only surfed that wave 3 times. I felt good about going to a different spot ( classic short board spot ), none of the usual munchkins were there.
Got a few more fun rides in the 2 hours out there. The tide was rising fast and killing my spot equally as fast.
Stoked to get glass, clear skies, and a few rides.
I have realized that when I surf my best still depends largely on where I'm surfing and on which board I'm on. I know my confidence is way higher @ Terra Mar home break.
I am deliberately going to force myself into more spots to broaden my surfing abilities.
I see now that it is important to becoming the surfer I want to be.
Im also going to try hanging back more to the rear of the board instead of taking my Tahitian war dance stance in the middle of the board all the time.
So much to learn. So much to try. I'm glad for that. Longboarding is a very intricate thing, I'm stoked on that as well !

surf on...

Wed Sunshine and Glassyness

Went out @ 12noon looking at offshore conditions and pure swimming pool glass.
Immediately decided to make the 100 yard paddle to Igor's reef as it was the only thing breaking really.
Water was reasonably clear considering the weather last week and it was cool. Sun was warm.
I really wanted to get some good waves but there just wasn't much power or form , which led me right down the kook road. I managed a few OK rides but many more kook outs. That Igor's wave at the yellow houses can be a real challenge, especially when its smaller.

Going out on a DP in the morning.... we'll see.

surf on...

Sunday was C O O L

Got out early on the DP and was treated to off shores , glass and bright blue skies. It was a littletidey so the beach break 'tween Warmies and Terra Mar was my call. Got a couple, then the spot" got a little crowded very fast.
Soo I paddled south to T Mar and got maybe 6more, 3 of those were really nice, glassy walls allowing me to make some speed filled turns.

Got my fill all alone......ahhhhhhhh.

Got out and up to the cliff and after 2 min in the truck towards home I was amazed to see the foothills totally dusted out in snow..... beautiful.

Surfing and snow ........ awesome, I love it ! ! !

surf on....

2nd day of 1st winter biggy Almost Magaine Cover

Day 2 of swell.... "Almost Magazine" picks me for the Cover shoot.
It was BIGGER, maybe twice the size of day one. I figure it was a 4 tier soup bowl. The waves were outside that and coming in sets of 5-10 waves with a clean-up of 2 in each set.
Well I guess I didn't pass this test. Suited up @ 350pm. Saw my friend Pat, he was trying to get out. Against my better judgement of paddle out spots, (small rip down @ palms) I chose going out close to a buddy( the buddy thing was a good choice).
I paddled for what seemed like 30 min. and got to within one wave of outside. I simply ran out of breath and strength at the worst time. I just couldn't hang, and turned. Pat made it outside. 5min. later there was a lull. I didn't make it long enough to catch that lull. I was so close.
I took this really hard.
Gonna fix some personal habits.
Gonna cross train for cardiopulmonary.

Hell I'm stoked I went at least, better than not for sure.
There's only one choice for me,
surf on...

1st day of 1st winter biggy

Well.... with what seemed to be
the whole world joined in a conspiracy to keep me outta the water,
I made it.
Cried like a little girl to get out of work @ 3:15.
Jason and I got in the water @ 3:50
Wave sets rollin' in.
Some nice steep drops, big fat swell under the feet, great weather, niiiiiiiiice.
Had to get out 45 min later to go to a show with wifey.
It was the best 45 min I've had in awhile, oh the show was good too !
My son got a killer right, and steeeeep drops.
I think I rode 5 waves in those 45 min. but the heart was pumpin and smile was out.
Good 1st day.
tomorrow.......
surf on...

Im ready

12/21/2005 TerraMar

I've been going out 200+ sessions each year for 2 years since Big Wed. 12/21/2005 for a reason.
That reason is because during that swell, I couldn't even get outside on the paddle out.
I am 51 years old. I have been surfing for 6 years now. The first 3 years of that I don't even count as "surfing", as I only went out maybe 20 times a year.
I'm never going to be like I was @ 25-35 years old. I will never have that level of strength and endurance again.
BUT I have significantly improved my paddle power and surfing intelligence since 12/21/05, and I'm really hoping I can get a chance to try myself out in the face of what was once way above my limit.

I hope
We will see.
Surf on......
P.S. as I am typing this the news reports a seasoned kayaker spotted a 25 foot shark in La Jolla cove today, probably just a ploy top scare everybody out of the upcoming swell... GULP

We've all read the forecasts

Hopefully the weather and swell line up together.


I have not been out now for 7 days. This is not ideal in my mind. I would like to have had a couple in before this WNW swell arrives, but work and weather have not made it easy.
Work still conspires against me for this upcoming week.

Plan A:
Monday PM warm up.
Tuesday PM in
Wednesday PM in
Thursday AM DP

I hope....
we all get some
I hope....
I can meet my expectations
surf on....

Hope

I read a forecasters blurb the other day on shurfshot forecast. A possible swell showing up this coming Monday 12/03/07
THAT forecaster eluded to a swell model looking similar to the one that came on 12/21/05 and permanently changed my life( at least to date)
I remember 12/21/05. Wednesday.
I remember my frustration of not even being able to make the paddle out 3 days later
( thank youGod, for I was nowhere near ready).
This is a gallery of that swell, read through it. All of the pages of photos are great.
The comments are equally as great.
http://photos.signonsandiego.com/gallery1.5/sdbigwaves?page=1

I'm willing
I'm able
I hope

surf on

ThanksGiving WeekEnd Update

Thurs. went to the In-laws in Thousand Oaks. Lotsa food,fun, and family. No traffic or hassles. Beautiful weather. It was good to see everyone and indulge.
Fri. Did a dawn patrol and it was swamped out big time
Sat. 6am "" " " " " " " "
Sat @ 11am returned and went out in the spring suit. Alot of texture and some small sets every 15 min. Got 2 good rides outta 5 rides. Hung out with the Ted in the water and had fun.
Sun. Went in at about 630am. Glassy, high tide, close outs. Air was cold in the am, felt like Winter.
Did a long paddle south to watch the high tide waves slam the cliffs, as not alot of "ride ables" were there for me. On the paddle back caught a few. My son had showed up on the cliffs with a camera ( uggg ). I always have a little different "minds eye" view of my form than what the photos show. Always room for the improvement, hehe, shish.

Oh yeah, Im thankful very much so.

I love Thanksgiving day.
Count 'em up and think about it. Take stock in it. Its really all there is.
It's the right thing to do. Appreciate actively all the good things we have.
I try to do it daily and never loose sight of what I'm thankful for.

My wife and son, and the time we have together.
My family here now and in the great beyond, and their love for me,their guidance, and wisdom.
My home, my job and that they are close to work and Surfing.
Thank God and nature, mother ocean, the sun, the wind, and the rain.
My friends.

S U R F I N G

OK surfing. Surfing has turned my life around. It is a large part of me now. I go as much as possible. It cleanses me each and every time. IT is my fun, challenge, fear, thrill, workout that keeps me healthy in mind and body. It plugs me into nature and God directly, every time I go, every time. Each time is different. Different friends and acquaintance's, different waves,weather, and conditions. Different challenges, and different responses from my head and body and emotions. The glass, the warmth,the cold, the victory at sea, the "at one -ness". The whole thing changes and changes again, always interesting, always different.
The peace, the successes, the defeats, the chance to always improve. Hope of an epic day. Finding and epic day when you least expect it....from nowhere.
God...the water, water,water,water, and its ability to always fill me with wonder and amazement. Surfing is so sensual, it floods the senses, heart and soul.
I could go on and on, LoL and I do, for that is what this blog is. I have read alot lately about what surfing IS and whether or not it defines people.
Surfing has defined me, not the culture so much, not surfline or the crowds or any of that crap. Not the blogs I read, or the products I choose.
Surfing is what I choose to do for the reasons above. Not for any ones approval, disapproval or otherwise. It is what I love, and for THAT reason

I AM A SURFER.

Happy Thanksgiving Day

surf on...........................................................................................................................

Monday Eve

Got out with my son Jason @ 4pm. Glassy, and still s o m e size on the sets.
Cool water and air. Few people out. Got alot of waves and so did Jason.
So great going with my boy. I love that ! ! ! Its a real gift. Its "priceless"
Got lefts and rights compliments of the North Westerner. Winters comin back and just in time.
I love the way that just when Ive had enough of wetsuits the summer comes.
Just when I'm sick and tired of summer crowds and "noise" the winter comes and thins it out real good.
It's all good, ALL OF IT ! ! !

surf on........

Got size ?

Sunday morning we got some. Wow its been awhile since I've stood on anything that high. I believe Labor day was he last time I felt like that.
Got in around 7, but was missing my son. He had stayed up too late the night before, so he surfed the sheets. Bummer, I am missing him surfing with me. It seems he goes with me less and less now. Im gonna work on that, quick.
Was tempted to go a little north to WWJ, but.........the right was packed and pounding people.
Watched a single surfer ( a confirmed wave magnet and a contrary )
surfing a spot solo and observed the wave direction. Yep, winter style. Paddled south of him a bit and got a few rights. Some folks then paddled out who failed to have their big cup of shut-the-f*&k up beforethey came to surf and I paddled another 50 yds. south for the quiet.
Took awhile, but as the tide moved lower I was rewarded with some sets that had some real size, although a bit walled.
I think I handled the walls better because of my evening surf sessions last week. Surf by "feel".
Finally got a big, fat, tall ,fast right. I've been waiting for that for a long while.
Glassy,steep, high and fast. Sa weeeeet.
Looking forward to more of that, maybe with the next SantaAna's !

surf on......

Great GREAT stuff

The last 3 Nights were magic.
Pure glass, few people, warm air, and cool water with a slight offshore.
Off in the distance a silhouette of the islands against the fire red glowing band on the horizon . To the west clear skies fade from red to light blue to navy, to purple to black, the crescent moon surrounded by a few stars. This happened @ 5:20 pm
All of this, all at once, was spectacular !
THEN the W a V e S come in ! !
Shoulder + peaks, pure glass with lots of long navel sized shoulders. Rides from outside to the sand, over and over and over. A long board, soul surfers dream.
H e a v e n !

WED EVE SESSION WAS ........

Almost identical to yesterday eve. Too crowded @ Tamarack with too many short boarders on waves closing out too fast.
Went to home break where the swell has 2/3rds less size and waves but......... because all the folks were at other breaks I got my 6-8 good waves all to myself. I polled surfers from north and south of me in very crowded lineups( more than 20 per peak ) and the wave count was the same or less than mine. So.........

surf on folks, surf on

Damn you, shortboard bowling pins.

Tamarack was firing big for the first part of the arriving swell. 4 wave sets spaced 5 min between the sets, head high ++.
25 bowling pins crowed into a 10 yard takeoff spot. Not for me, I hate bowling for shorties.
Drove to Terra Mar knowing it wouldn't be as good and it wasn't. I went out.
Caught the first big wave ....... it WAS good.
In 1 hour I only saw 4 more biggies. Got all of them. In between there was NOTHING.
South to Igor's and further south were more frequent BIG FAT WALLS closing out fast.
I'm stoked, hell when Im in the water I'm ALWAYS STOKED, thank God ! !
I'm feeling good about tonight and Looking Forward to the next 3-4 days, hoping my little Private Idaho will pan out.
Hope is a wonderful thing.
Solitude is as well.

surf on........

Weekend Update

Saturday got out @ 630 and the tide was high and the push was weak. Did get a few. Paddled til I got a burn . It was functional. Functional is what I must get back to.


Sunday had higher hopes but nothing to write home about. Caught 2 right away with no one else within 100 yards of me. Warm Waters was curling. The beach was breaking real close in. A few saw my couple rides and paddled south to get some also. I saw a nice one break outside at the reef, heard a couple of ooos and ahhs from my immediate company, so I turned and made the paddle south.
I caught maybe 10 at the Igor's reef and south. One of those was a right ( rare for that spot ) where I got the longest nose trip ever. Both feet 2 inches behind the nose, the WHOLE TIME, a long time. I managed to steer from the front and was astounded by this and how it felt.
I am having breakthrough moments now, much needed after the last month of mediocre surfing.
Looking forward to this week and some decent sized stuff...I'm ready I believe !

Went out and GOT SOME

Haaaa, didnt expect that . Gray and coolish. got there @ 445 pm
No one out.
No chop either.
No wind
Saw some lines. paddle out was easy. water was WARM??.
Slow kinda SW swell sets showed.
My 2 best surfing friends showed and we had it virtually alone.
Caught about 10-12 nice loooooooong board waves. Very Very nice and un expected.
I love that ! !
Gotta keep it up 'til that Southie comes in Sun and then mid week..........

surf on.........

Weekend update

Saturday

Nada, zero, zilch, nothing.
There at 6am, looked 40 min. for a sign of rideable waves, saw none and split.
A drag, as I was still buzzin' from Friday's rekindled stoke.

Sunday

Scarce, rare, lean, and far between.
There at 6am, saw a few, WarmWaters looked like something was happening, but I chose to surf alone and south.
Caught one pretty quick. It was good enough to bring a couple surfers CLOSER to me, bah.
However on my next ride I got covered ! !
I wasn't expecting that. First time I think.
Dropped in on a left that came slightly outside and was riding low in the wave. I thought, "I'm not gonna make the section", so I tucked and stuck it out.
Then just when I thought I had made the section, I felt the thin lip of the wave hitting my back and outside shoulder and could hear it as well. I noticed the curl of the wave just in front of my face and the steepness of the small shoulder past that.
Cool, very cool. It's a step forward for sure. There is so much I look forward to with surfing.

surf on......

Bingo, BINGO ! I got B I N G O ! ! ! !

This Pic is of my Son on the cliff @ TerraMar
This story is about him really and what he does for his very proud Dad.

Finally, I got some of what I needed, whew ! I have been in a surf funk.
Tonight my son kinda talked me into going after work, I was going to repeat recent history and blow it off and then the little light came on and shone through." Don't do that again Bill, remember how you felt when you blew him off last time ?"
We went to our break and the line up was clogged on the inside with grommets on the short stuff. My immediate inclination was to go north or south of the crowd (packed paddle paranoia), then the little light came on again and shone through "Let your son choose, he is not in the funk you are in. "
I paddled out directly into the crowd, following my Son.
I turned on the first wave immediately, stood, stood down would be hoppers(2), and cut back on the snake(1), turned again and stepped to the nose arched back and rode.......ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh !

Got another 8-10 nice outsiders. Took "my" waves appropriately and came out cleansed and re-born from the funky monkey week of , well.... crap everything.
Thank you SON, you are my little light when things go dark, I did see it and follow it this time.

surf on.......

Yes....we went out today, a little guilty, a little NOT

Despite the fire situation, my son snuck out at 2-3 this afternoon.
He reports B A M ! ! !
Way, way outside fatso's , on the big board. Just what he needed after 3 weeks-o-nuthin.
He rated his session as one his of top ten surf's. Probably an 8

I got out for 1 hour about 5 pm caught 2 good waves ( not the waves of the day ) There were of course outrages Santa Ana offshores, smoke, and coughing on the paddle out .
I rate mine a 3.75
I want an additional 4.25 added to that. S o o n Please.


surf on.........

Would'a, Should'a, Could'a ,I got work to do

Friday, my son Jason says hey lets go. Well..."it's already 415 pm, the sun will be in our eyes, the internet cam doesn't LOOK that good, my back is a litttle sore and I want the epidural I got the day before to have a chance" etc., etc., etc.
So I talk us out of it. Why, why would I (<==== DUMB ) bail on any session with my son ? MiStAkE ! I missed time with with son. Friends and cohorts claim near EPIC for Friday eve.
Saturday, I, who wakes at 5 am, doink around until 7 and miss the best part of the morning according to the line up. Tough paddle out and some late drop fat ones. Got a small handful and was satisfied. As I was leaving the tide was changing and I suspect it got better.
Sunday, I, who wakes at 5 am, doink around until 7 and I wait until 9am so the tide can start to drop. Jason and I go and its tough paddle out with strong southern current. Oh there are big ones out there but hard to get unless perfectly in "the" spot for the peak and a paddle battle to get the drop. Then its all do it right and get out clean OR ELSE boooooom !
Jason 2.......Dad 1...... got home and looked at "surfshot".com and the pictures from dawn patrol showed incredible waves at the break of dawn.
MY HEAD, MY TIMING, and MY INSTINCTS are in need of an adjustment.
post script
I will make repair now.
1) Dominate at work so as to get out earlier for more late afternoon sessions.
2) Lose the 20 lbs. I've managed to gain back and get a new wet suit upon reaching that goal.
3) Never turn down an offer to surf it up with my son.
4) Get a little more confident so I don't shy from a paddle battle to get the waves.

surf on ..........................

Wrong board-wrong tide oh well, trust yer instincts is the lesson I will take home.

This morning I arrived about a half hour later than I should have.
T-Mar WAS breaking but...... fatties lookin to break then shrinking until a little too close on the inside for a 10 ft. + board.
.
"TerraMirage" or "TerraMush" as some have said. I knew I should have brought my cali-classic Chris Slick with a trifin set up.....damn.!

Well I did my best (probably) and really got about 5 decent rides in 2 hours. I just cant take off REAL LATE on that board. The tide came up fast and killed it.

still stoked, as always, and thankful to the powers that be for giving this gift to my son and I.
Maybe I'll go back out now with a different board and a DIFFERENT TIDE.
Surf on, and on, and on.

Saturday I came, I saw, I went, IT was GOOD? ? ? !

Friday looked awful on the surfline Tamarack Cam ( just up the road from where I generally surf ). Saturdays cam 615am, showed a little better. At 430am Saturday I finished watching this Machado interview www.surfline.com/video/going_off/ video,
so I went EXPECTING CRAP up front. Maybe some victory at sea, which I enjoyed last winter at times. 0,o
7am Saturday I paddle out through sorta big NNW wind swell. A four or five tier,
( whitewater steps ) paddle out with a strong south parallel pull. My first semi winter like swell TEST. Waves were about shoulder/head ht. on the takeoff peaks, maybe 3-5 seconds apart on the sets and those in between. Warm water still.
After getting outside, I sat catching my breath, then turned on one, had a late great drop and an adrenaline pumping right. Because I thought it was gonna be crap so I let my wife a note saying I would be home by 830. Well stayed in til 10 am, had a few really great rides
I always have a good-great time "going", close to 200 times since Jan.
Glad I went......
As I write this on Sunday Am at 5 am Im goin again EXPECTING CRAP.

surf on

fire it up

Finally..............................W a V e S

Last night I went out, reluctantly just to paddle, as I always do when there are no waves and
B O I N G...... the reef was jackin up on THE O U T S I D E, HEAD HIGH, outside sets.
Did I say O U T S I D E S E T S......yep I did. big fat, breaking outside with lotsa shoulder and push.

All this in the middle of a 5.5ft high tide......

For a period of 45 min. we were all ( only 5 peeps out) hootin,hollerin, grinnin, SURFIN.

Bring it on.......
Surf on..................

O~B~S~E~S~S~E~D ?

Am I OBSESSED ?

obsession (countable and uncountable; plural obsessions)

1. a compulsive or irrational preoccupation
2. an unhealthy fixation

Oh, maybe so, doesn't really matter.
I've had 147 sessions since Jan 07, 50 of those were with my son, Jason.

The last few weeks have been interesting, A mix of small and frustrating, big and fun, lotsa smooth warm glass, no wet suits ANYMORE for a long time,(the no wetsuit thing is huge for me and my son)

2 nights back Jason and I had a great evening session in trunks, more the next day, and more again. His board rash was so bad he couldn't go this morning. I have been getting compliments now on my turns,cutbacks and other moves........VERY GRATIFYING ! ! !

Not that I HAVE to have that to surf, but it fuels my fire for sure. Instills confidence to move forward with the skills.

I am so looking forward to about 4 months of trunks and hopefully a few B i g swells.

Surfing leads me to HOPE.

I will go tommorow before work...thats in @ 5AM and ot at 6:15

surf on all of you, surf on.

THAT was cool !

Nice PMer tonight ! Kinda some texture but...
Trunks
Nice DROPS
Really warm( yes, actually WARM ) waters.
Got 2 rights at the TM reef that were, well G O O D.
Steep and long enough to do some long board dancing.
Everyone catching some, every one laughing.
O yes, and surfin it up with Jason, my son, is always good. Especially when he compliments me on the gnarly drops and stuff.

Summer, summer,
S U M M E R

surf on.....

People are killing our friends, murdering them.

http://www.10news.com/news/13512308/detail.html#
Isn't this just a shinning example of how wonderful the human race is.
Shooting Dolphins in the head.
I hope I have the good fortune to run into those folks.
Please let me happen upon them knowingly.

The Way we like IT

Tonight was fun. 5-8pm
TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS
Warm and glassy
Clear and looking at the reef under the board, watching the fish as I glide.
Effortless paddles and long smooth glides.
Pumping a 10 footer up and down and up and down. Cutbacks, and roundhouse's
Blue green water.
Occasional shoulder+ pits, and shoulders to dance on.
Good friends and good vibes.
Sun, sun, sun.
Stoke, stoke, stoke.

Surf on and on and on and on.

The locals are back

Photos courtesy of Ted, thats TerraMar Ted, a surf bro.

Are you a "Tube Dodger"? He's NOT

Find yourelf dodging the occasional tube? I certainly hope not !! But if you do...
Watch and enjoy.... by clicking the link below

http://www.surfline.com/video/video_player/video_player_640.cfm?id=5863

Remember Big Wednesday "05" ?

This is a series of great photos from So Cal. on that wonderful, wonderful day.
Scroll through them all and check the comments
Really priceless memories and laughs. Enjoy !!
http://photos.signonsandiego.com/gallery1.5/sdbigwaves/SMHbigsurf250296x005

Saturday 5/19/07 Thanks Doc

Went out this morning to keep my arms and spirit in shape, just to spend some time in the water.
I am used to going out 4 to 6times a week now,
2-weekend DP's, and the rest after work sessions.
Last time out was Monday. S u r p r i s e ! ! !
This morning I expected glass, fog, semi cold red tide water, and ZERO waves. I showed later than usual and found lots of the regulars standing on the cliff. I deliberately put my wetsuit on at home so I wouldn't back out of going in for lack of waves. I parked and ran to the water without looking at the conditions.
Well it was small, but there were waves. I probably stood 15-20 times in my 2 hours and 6-8 of those were full and satisfying rides. JUST WHAT THE DOCTOR ORDERED !!
Going out again tomorrow and really looking forward to the next predicted SSW
and a loooooong
5 day weekend starting this Thursday
surf on....

S u r p r i s e ! ! !

Wow...I know I didn't expect to see any real waves today, but.....SURPRISE

0630 am glassy,gray,cooler,no winds, peaks, some shoulders, nice drops, few people.

Surfed with Chuck today( below, in the wet suit) which is always a treat. Man that guy can hunt down the hot spots @ Terra mar. Chuck is always funny, fun to hang with, and a good surfer. I always learn when I watch him.
Good day today. Yesterday was a paddle out for a fallen surfer who passed on from a type of lymphoma @ 42 years old........

Surf hard, well, and often. Do something fun each day.
Surf on....

Took it All off

Monday night the suit came off in the last 45 min.
PERFECT WEATHER
GLASS
Cool Rides
Ted ( lives in a line-up house ) cranked up the beach boy tunes,
we sang the Sun to sleep.
Tuesday night, surfing Son Jason and I, in @ 4pm ish
trunks only ! ! ! !
PERFECT WEATHER
GLASS
some GOOD WAVES and SWEET RIDES
Good VIBES
GREAT TIMES....... SUMMER IS SO CLOSE NOW



surf on.......suit off.......

I WANT TO TAKE OFF MY SUIT

Today SUNDAY was almost summer like. ( took this shot @ Wind N' Sea today)

Medium, semi off shore winds slapping spray in the face. Blowing my SON and I south. Some pretty good waves coming Thur @ T-Mar.
Jason got a few goodies, so did I, but also got 2 late drops and consequent kook bottom turns, which I did recover from nicely and actually squeezed out pretty fair rides ( improving :) )

It's always GREAT to SURF WITH MY SON.

I went in without boots ( my feet always get cold ).
Boots off was good.....
Now I want the damn suit off...it gets so old. It's so constrictive, restrictive, and de-sensitizing.
Its like a full body condom.........

I Saw Wind and Sea today......what a beautiful beach and wave.

I'm going to take a surf trip there before summer break and the mega crowds that
I'm sure must be there...maybe a mid-weeker.

Gonna make the cover of ALMOST magazine

felt like this dude today.... kinda.
(pic. I took on "big wed" 2005 TerraMar/Igors reef)

Got out there @ 6:15am Got a few, nice drops, some shoulders, almost tubed, then as soon as the "apostles" lined up on the cliff, sipping java and taking it in, I turned to mush. Almost made some hell-drops, almost did a great roundhouse, almost made a stellar left turn, a l m o s t.
I did however complete a perfect and spectacular over the nose pearl......

Still it was great to get out, man, it seems if I don't get at least 3-4 sessions per week( 7 day period)
I GET VERY VERY FUNKY ! !

Soooooooo it was good.
thinking Sunday will be considerably better weather, form, and speed.

surf on....