Wow...I know I didn't expect to see any real waves today, but.....SURPRISE
0630 am glassy,gray,cooler,no winds, peaks, some shoulders, nice drops, few people.
Surfed with Chuck today( below, in the wet suit) which is always a treat. Man that guy can hunt down the hot spots @ Terra mar. Chuck is always funny, fun to hang with, and a good surfer. I always learn when I watch him.
Good day today. Yesterday was a paddle out for a fallen surfer who passed on from a type of lymphoma @ 42 years old........
Surf hard, well, and often. Do something fun each day.
Surf on....
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