Terramar

Saturday, May 05, 2012

Trying things a bit differently at Home Break

On a Thursday night my boss was kind and agreed to give me the next day off.
So yesterday, Friday morning it was kinda hooky like, and a great little Am surf to boot.
Just quiet, glassy, peaks scattered about. Just a few others out. 
I was going right  90% the time, even though the lefts are better and more frequent.
I know I want to surf front and back side, but it is really a treat to go front side and right at.

When I go right the drops,the speed, the form, the turns and the experience always seem better,
my exit.....well lets just say that I "can Exit" a right with a little class and style.
Blah blah blah....I'm loving just going right the last few times and plan on a lot more of just that.
This morning Saturday was a repeat  got in a 0600....  got some great rights and the rest of the early Dawn Patrol crew is goofy...so   yeah!  I get all the rights I want.. no pressure.

Look forward tomorrow, Sunday Am 0545 in the water
Maybe trunks very soon too, as the water is seriously warming.

surf on...