Terramar

Sunday, September 16, 2012

Surfing Subjectivity: part 1

Surfing is an amazing thing really. It is incredible that I can go out on a day, today, that looks horrible
( Windy, gray, chop, cold misty air  with infrequent lines and waves that are "junky and funk filled ) and have as much fun, or  even more than on a "beautiful" day, warm, clear, calm, glass, with waves, 
(Ah yes, today was the polar opposite of yesterdays MORNING weather conditions)
Some days have big outside waves and its great
Some days have no waves at all to speak of, very few rides, and IT'S great too.
To me that is special

I wonder if this is in part, due to my lack of 
1) Surfing experience,
2) Physical condition
    and yes,
3) Skill.
 Meaning that if I were a lot better, and skilled with experience I would run into days that weren't  as fun because condition expectations were higher?
I know and surf with some that are upset when they ( or I ) miss a single wave. I understand how missing many waves is frustrating.... but a single wave ?

Anyways, today I was in trunks @ 6AM and it was a horrible looking( Windy, gray, chop,  with infrequent lines and waves that are "junky and funk filled ) day.
However I got 4 really fun waves, considering the adversity of conditions and only 3 people were out in it.
I enjoyed the camaraderie of a "crappy day"with a friend and a new friend.
I enjoyed the waves and longer rides than I am used to

I ENJOYED this (crappy) day

I love surfing.
I am forever grateful.