Saturday, September 07, 2013

Surf, Sit Down (on that board), and Shut up #75

This week I was fortunate enough to grab 3 days off after the Labor Day Holiday.
Wed,Thurs, and Friday, and get back to surfing with my son, Jason.

He reminded me (again) that I have no exit skill or even strategy after I finish a wave.

Basically for 10 years,
 I have been riding a wave to its ( or my own ) conclusion and then stepping, shooting, or otherwise JF Kooking off the board.
Ugly for sure. Definitely subtracts most any style points I can rack up during a ride
I've  known it but never cared, save a handful of times , to try to correct that.
So with my son's encouragement I will work on this in earnest. 
Well in the last four days of surfing I have at least sat down on the board at the end of the ride probably 30% after all waves I've stood on.
Doesn't sound like much, but wow, it is a lot better.

Mostly flat again these last days,1-3's, but the conditions,  weather and water have been insanely good for surfing.
I have loved surfing for days in a row and with my boy.
 Keeps me fired up and STOKED despite some very funky other aspects in my life.
 So for me it's gonna be SURF, SIT DOWN,  SHUT UP

I'm stoked

surf on...

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Hey, that's one of my sayings "JFK".

The lone guy on the hill.