Monday, September 02, 2013

69 is Devine.... been waiting 3 weeks for some, and

 session # 69 of the year comes through.
 After 3 weeks of very small surf...ankle to knee surf, we get a swell in the water on
LABOR DAY WEEKEND, crowds too, but none-the-less a fun sized swell.

Friday night after a, well,  a week of workstration, I am alone at home and decide to "go out you fool".
 It was 100 degrees and the water was probably 70. Humidity at 90 I would say
Despite the high tide there were a few bouncy waves to ride. Bouncy from the water rebounding off the cliff at the reef. The kind of waves that jack up with the reverse swell then the wave takes you on a little elevator ride up and down until finally it breaks. Like a rodeo, really.
Anyways the relief and release form the work week was so very much appreciated by myself that I got really stoked about the promised swell and end of the West Coast August Drought.
Saturday morning I arrive at Terramar at  Zero Dark Thirty to a full parking area. Wow.
So I trunk up and go right to the reef as its actually breaking there...
W A V E S are again in San Diego after virtually nothing for so  long. I mean really I am driven to "the reef" (without hesitation) from drought conditions for so long.
Most of the time at the reef the better surfers get most of the waves.
Now I love to surf but I know my abilities and although I over step them, rather frequently too I hope, in an effort to improve and aspire to my dreams of surfing, I am realistic enough to realize, well the reality of the situation. Which is why I choose to surf north of the reef most always.
The wave is less critical and certainly the people who surf there at " the houses" are less critical as well.
 Anyways this Saturday like a starving Hyena I venture straight into the pride of Lyons and guess what?
They were all in seemingly THE WRONG SPOT
I was evidently in THE RIGHT SPOT !!
Yay me !
It was like
Bill 12  
Reef PRO's 2   and there were about 20 reef PRO's by 630am
Had a good reef day.
This great day carried over into Sunday and Monday even though my count dropped dramatically.
Still was super stoked
Still am super stoked
Lost my reef inhibitions finally
Poof !

despite crowds

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