Terramar

Sunday, November 19, 2006

"Hey Kook, I'ma mess you up, bad!!! "

Might have to change the blog name
from; Surfing Terramar
to Surviving Terramar.
Saturday, I arrive at the "playground" about 10 am to coincide with a 2 foot tide and there are 3 cop cars, lights a flashing, in my parking spot. So I park aways down the hill,grab the gear and head off to the walk down spot. A 30 year old surfer is standing at the top of the bluff and down below on the beach are 4 cops and a life guard.
I figure "surfer down". I ask the surfer on the bluff what happened ? He says he accidentally hit one of four scuba divers ( in the middle of the surf area) The diver told him to learn to surf then cut his leash with the divers knife. Wordz were exchanged, they went to shore. At this point the (ego) injured diver pulled his knife on the surfer and told him he and his friends were gonna " f*&k him up bad" evidently at this point spear guns were pointed at the surfer. Surfer says "if you all wanna dis-arm yourselves, I'll go toe to toe with all of you."
They continue the threats, surfer goes to the top of bluff and his car and cell phones the cops.
I BELIEVE THEY ARRESTED THE DIVERS....didn't hang around, paddled out instead, got about 5 or 6 nice ones, some RIGHTS for a change. They started outside, formed a nice peak then the shoulders just jacked up as the wave got to the beach. On a couple I was trying out the rail grab, beat the close out, someday I'm gonna get tubed maneuvers.
It felt good,tight and right.

THURSDAY night went out @ 4pm ( mad rush from work to beach) got in and had a bunch of mediocre stuff........UNTIL it got dark and this creepy low fog came in.Everyone got out except myself and 1 other surfer.
Just then, wild 3 wave sets rolled in from the outside. These appeared as gray/black fat lines charging from nowhere out of the now foggy horizon.
Myself...I got 3 BIG, FAST, LONG,SWEETIES.An awesome and strange finish.
Was SuperStoked the next 24 hours.

surf on....

Sunday, November 12, 2006

Killer weekend

Friday was cool. Got in @ 630 AM and there were, to my surprise, waves and lotsa people. Oh yeah Veteran's Day, duh. Well we all got a nice Veterans day gift. Nice off shores, nice rollers, nice vibe.
My 10'2" Chris slick is sooooo perfect sometimes. Those big fat deep rollers just set this magic board free, me too ! My son showed up about 8am with a 9 foot version of the same board and we just surfed it up. We like to switch boards in the water and that makes for even more fun. It is amazing that these 2 boards are the same shape and model, but the dims are different and they behave so differently. I love both of them. I think the Slicks are a bit fragile though.
We had a great time.
Saturday was different. I was in @ 6 and out by 8. Got about 6 decent rides. Satisfying.
Sunday Jason ( my son) and I were in @ 6. Only 3 people in the water and on a Sunday?!?
OK?
We paddle out through some good sized walls and a familiar says " good luck guys, these are a little much for me" and with that he beaches himself.
OK ......So Im thinking there rollin in then it's jack, wall, CRASH. No sweat.
I say no sweat because. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
I have been out over 150 days since Jan.1st.
I know this because I grab a shell after every session.
I've done this for this reason.
12/21/05
I watched big Wednesday
I watched big Thursday.
I watched slightly smaller big Friday.
I TRIED TO GO OUT on slightly smaller again, leftover Saturday.
At the time, I was incapable of paddeling out through 4-5 tiers of white water in short intervals.
It disgusted me, my son on the shore video taping my attempts to get outside, and each failure to do so.
That day I said "no more"!
So, on average, I have surfed every other day since.
Well, today I paddled with confidence both going out and
going for some pretty jacked up A frame waves. Got lotsa good ones, steep, fast and beach walls that required getting out of in a controlled way.
My son and I ruled the break today, ruled it.
The hard work, explanations to my wife and to my work, sore shoulders, people wondering about my obsession , have been worth it. I have put myself through 11 months of training and learning and it paying off.
There is still alot to accomplish.....but Im gettin there for sure and loving every session I have.
Life is very good @ 50
very, very good.

Wednesday, November 08, 2006

About last night....

OOOOO la la.
Very tough day @ the work. Left @ 4pm for home, stripped, suited and grabed the 10'2" to go and check it out. Pure glass,4:40pm,very warm, spring suit, 2 buddies and 1 famililar in the water. Weird little peaks showed. I took 3 to adjust my position on the board then everything turned sweet. After my 2nd semi nose ride through the drained out reef, I ran ashore. stripped to my trunks and surfed into the night with a glowing ember horizon and bright stars.
Cosmic, sensuous, bitchin STOKE.
Surfing and mother ocean never cease to totally amaze me.

Thank you Mother
Thank you God
wooooooooooooooooooo