Terramar

Sunday, March 21, 2010

Surfing is getting more relaxed

Surfing is getting more relaxed these days.
I'm surfing better. Better than before the surgical disaster.
A lot of that has to do with 2 things.
A cutaway fin that good friend Dave supplied me and going to Sunday school with this guy

a couple Sundays back
Chuck, a great surfer, has the place wired and he surfs with a style that I particularly like.
Kinda hybrid long/short.
He spent about an hour sitting on the inside, instructing me, as I came to him and passed him. I was my first "lesson" ever. It was great. IT helped me out a lot.
Since that time I have never surfed so.... loose. The cut away assists.
It is coming together now
body, board and ocean.

:)

2 comments:

正碩嫌念阿彌陀佛往生西方極樂世界 said...

阿彌陀佛 無相佈施


不要吃五辛(葷菜,在古代宗教指的是一些食用後會影響性情、慾望的植
物,主要有五種葷菜,合稱五葷,佛家與道家所指有異。

近代則訛稱含有動物性成分的餐飲食物為「葷菜」,事實上這在古代是稱
之為腥。所謂「葷腥」即這兩類的合稱。 葷菜
維基百科,自由的百科全書
(重定向自五辛) 佛家五葷

在佛家另稱為五辛,五種辛味之菜。根據《楞嚴經》記載,佛家五葷為大
蒜、小蒜、興渠、慈蔥、茖蔥;五葷生啖增恚,使人易怒;熟食發淫,令
人多慾。[1]

《本草備要》註解云:「慈蔥,冬蔥也;茖蔥,山蔥也;興渠,西域菜,云
即中國之荽。」

興渠另說為洋蔥。) 肉 蛋 奶?!











念楞嚴經 *∞窮盡相關 消去無關 證據 時效 念阿彌陀佛往生西方極樂世界











我想製造自己的行為反作用力
不婚 不生子女 生生世世不當老師








log 二0.3010 三0.47710.48 五0.6990 七0.8451 .85
root 二1.414 1.41 三1.732 1.73五 2.236 2.24七 2.646
=>十3.16 π∈Q' 一點八1.34

Bill said...

yep