Terramar

Saturday, June 22, 2013

Swami's Surfing on Summer Solstice


Sweet ! 
First day of Summer !
I always request this day off
Bingo 
Got in a double surf on my favorite day, in perfect weather!
#45
Swami's swell conditions weren't sooo great, but
I did get to surf with my favorite surf buddy,Jason !
Laurie came too and we had a great beach day in the warm waters and sun.
Got some nice peaky drops and shoulders.
Did my Glad to get that outta the way kooky sled ride.
Then got a handful of nice stuff. So did my son.
Hope he knows how proud of him I am !
I have only surfed Swami's 4 times before.
I can say this.
The line up has a great vibe to it.

NICE DAY !

Wednesday, June 12, 2013

You-ness, Me-ness, Us-ness, We-nes,..... sickness ? Nah !

As we share the water we are a perfect mirror image
Almost an exact match
Old, beat up, disaster surgeries, stitched back together, and almost functional

Most notably however , we love the water and can still do it.

surf on...

Saturday, June 08, 2013

So.Cal. Big South Surfing Swell or bust

The much anticipated Big South shows up.......  so selectively
Today, session 42, was a good one for me. Needed it !
THIS is probably the smallest wave of this day

(#42 of the year 2013 ?  a pitiful number really )
0510AM

This swell was coming in 16 second intervals at about 205 degrees and the sets were all there were.
It was glassy, calm and flat as a lake in between head high sets.

Got a nice long left shoulder all glassy and kinda fast.
Got a Big Drop to the right that formed a great head high wall that I sped down
marveling at the speed and size of the wave the whole way.
That one put a big  shit eatin' grin on my face.
Dropped a big close out to the bottom then got lunch served up
( later in the morning, while bending down to pick up and load my board into the car, about a half of a water glass of warm sea water poured out of one nostril, mmmmmmmm !)
The reef was getting it in spades, a lot of close outs but so big and THUNDERING
I'm glad I stayed at the houses today .
Only 5 people to the reefs 20 at 545am
I am riding the white board now that the big blue has been given a death sentence by Ding King
Once I am up on it I can move it better. Once I am up she's good.
Getting up is a bit harder but I'm getting it.
Yesterday I snuck out at 510 am to sneak in a pre work surf.
I rarely get pissed surfing but I got pissed yesterday.
Went to the reef knowing I had about 1 hour in the water the rush off to work.
20 people there.
Finally get a left and right as I stand a shorter board comes from the inside and makes the wave I'm on.
Yeah happens everywhere but this one got to me because, well, it did.
After polling a dawn patrol buddy, I find out what I suspected, and that was " well he was closest to the peak.
Blah blah blah, yada yada yada, I give him, the snake,  the full finger and go, pissed.
So
I completely snake my dawn patrol buddies parking spot this morning and laughed my ass off over it.
As I slid into the spot( just like that snake did to me yesterday at the reef ) I heard this AAAAHHHHHH!!!!!
then he lit his wheels up in reverse and backed down the road the wrong way into a spot .
I thought I was gonna bust a gut.
I am a very bad man.

Surf on