Just keep it coming

Click pic' for a view of some glassy ass GLASS from Fridays morning session !

After last nights sesh, I was stoked I had arranged for Friday off about 3 days back.
Damn I'm getting better at calling the days off....
In @ 7am out @ 1130am.
Glass..not crowded..some big fat stuff AGAIN
Seems best in the high tide....albeit a bit mushy, enough size to crank it up though.

3 different people described 3 separate waves I rode as "waves-of-the-day !! L O L
That felt good ! ! ! !

Did get a hundred yarder....face the whole way, chesty,
overhead on the peak !

It was one of those mornings.................woooooooo hooooooooo

God its good to be alive and so stoked......
it's soooo good.
Thanks
Thanks for this precious, precious gift.

surf on....

Well... today was just kinda EPIC ! ! ! ! !

HIGHLY RECOMMEND THE POSSIBILITY OF CHECKING IT OUT TOMORROW
POSSIBLY PLAYING A LITTLE HOOKIE
My own, little, home break finally wakes up with
a perfect swell direction, depth, and interval.
5-6 tiered, long, far, BURNING paddle out..the kind where you might never get out..

BIG FAT JAAAAACKING CRUMBLING JAAAAAAACKING STEEP BEAUTIFUL
IN SETS OF 5 AND MORE BREAKING WAY FAR OUT THEN FARTHER STILL

EXHAUSTING PADDLE OUTS/BACKS AND COMPLETELY SATISFYING
COMPLETELY
A W E S O M E ! !

surf on...and on and on and on and......

Tues PM is all GOOD..mostly

Tuesday's session was what I've been waiting for for what seems to be a long time.
Warm, glassy, fat west swell.
Made a mad dash from work at 330 pm, arranged to meet my son and was surprised to see almost perfect conditions.
First 3 were great and pretty long. Then things slowed a bit with occasional rides for all. Some of those were great rides. My son had a couple good ones then ended up slicing a flap of skin off his hand with the fin. Went in and bandaged him up. Went back out til 730 pm.
During the last hour I stripped the wet sit off down to the waist so I could feel the water on my arms and torso. SWEET
I CANT WAIT TO GET OUTTA THAT DAMN SUIT...... I WANT TO TRUNK IT SOOOO BAD !!!!

anywho.....it was good. Looking forward to the rest of the week and hopefully this Friday off.....

surf on

It's heeeeeeeeeere

Finally some good size.
Tuesday PM. in @ 4pm, out @ 730pm
Warmer water presumably from the SOUTH
A little chop but sunny and a little breeze. A big, fat swell.
Deep pits on some, sections, clean-up walls, lotsa push.
Pretty good glass off
2 kook-outs,
3 wicked drops,
5 nice steep, long rides,
2 c l o s e calls with wiped out boards
1 saved the dude. staring at me from the inside 5 yards in front of me as I stood atop a bomb
Burning paddle out and paddle back outs.
Lotsa fun, cheers, laughs, and W H O A 's
Finally some good size.
This pic. is not from today,
but one of my Favorite Pics of my son Jason