It's heeeeeeeeeere

Finally some good size.
Tuesday PM. in @ 4pm, out @ 730pm
Warmer water presumably from the SOUTH
A little chop but sunny and a little breeze. A big, fat swell.
Deep pits on some, sections, clean-up walls, lotsa push.
Pretty good glass off
2 kook-outs,
3 wicked drops,
5 nice steep, long rides,
2 c l o s e calls with wiped out boards
1 saved the dude. staring at me from the inside 5 yards in front of me as I stood atop a bomb
Burning paddle out and paddle back outs.
Lotsa fun, cheers, laughs, and W H O A 's
Finally some good size.
This pic. is not from today,
but one of my Favorite Pics of my son Jason