Click pic' for a view of some glassy ass GLASS from Fridays morning session !After last nights sesh, I was stoked I had arranged for Friday off about 3 days back.
Damn I'm getting better at calling the days off....
In @ 7am out @ 1130am.
Glass..not crowded..some big fat stuff AGAIN
Seems best in the high tide....albeit a bit mushy, enough size to crank it up though.
3 different people described 3 separate waves I rode as "waves-of-the-day !! L O L
That felt good ! ! ! !
Did get a hundred yarder....face the whole way, chesty,
overhead on the peak !
It was one of those mornings.................woooooooo hooooooooooverhead on the peak !
God its good to be alive and so stoked......
it's soooo good.
Thanks
Thanks for this precious, precious gift.
surf on....
1 comment:
few years back I had it like that all by myself. Everybody paddled in for work and I said f@*# it I'm staying out, I'll be late for work.
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