felt like this dude today.... kinda. (pic. I took on "big wed" 2005 TerraMar/Igors reef)
Got out there @ 6:15am Got a few, nice drops, some shoulders, almost tubed, then as soon as the "apostles" lined up on the cliff, sipping java and taking it in, I turned to mush. Almost made some hell-drops, almost did a great roundhouse, almost made a stellar left turn, a l m o s t.
I did however complete a perfect and spectacular over the nose pearl......
Still it was great to get out, man, it seems if I don't get at least 3-4 sessions per week( 7 day period)
I GET VERY VERY FUNKY ! !
Soooooooo it was good.
thinking Sunday will be considerably better weather, form, and speed.
surf on....
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