nice redemption sessions

After Sunday's ..... well after Sunday I was treated to an after work/evening surf with my son.

Wed.
I snuck outta work at 3 and got out and in the water by 330
There was some surf and the weather was perfecto.
We each got some glassy rides and saw our friend Don...groovy dude and good surfer.
Sat.
Waited until 10 am to go out cuz the tide was @ 6 feet. That was a mistake as I was told by a few. Paddled out to mostly peaks without shoulder, but managed to get a couple decent right shoulders out of it. Weather was great and I was satisfied.

so far so good
we'll see what Sunday brings

Welcome Winter Waves ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Saturday's dawn patrol began in the water @ 6am
with a wetsuit(first time since march)
Dave and I got a few although they were kinda tough to get into.
Had some nice winter rights on the smaller board and was moving around pretty well.
Sunday's dawn patrol began in the water @ 6 am,

Today it would be very very different for me ! !
I got "worked" on my paddle out,
more "worked" than I care to be "worked". I got "worked" for 10 min.
I was exhausted when finally got outside.
The sets that came through early on were beautiful. Big sets.
Big, glassy, deep green 2-3 wave sets way outside.
Big and glassy with spray blowing back from the peaks.
Some had great long shoulders. Some were close out BOMBS.

BEAUTIFUL

The first set a guy handed to me,
but I was still recovering from the paddle out.
The second set I would back out of,
still too tired.
The third set I relinquished to an another,
who rode it fine, fast, and furious to the right for a good 50 yards.
The fourth set he and I both paddled for. He was to my left.
I backed out thinking he was going right again,
but
he did go left, as a courtesy, I am sure.
Missed another.
Miscommunication.
On the big stuff especially, I am uncomfortable with 2 or 3 of us dropping close, in one wave.
I don't like to worry about the other folk should I mess up on a bad close out.
I don't like to worry about the other folk should they mess up a bad close out.
To make it worse, I got SUPPED twice from 1 SUP.
From 15 yards further out than Frikin OAHU. Supper's gack !!
We should segregate ourselves a bit in my humble O
To make my VERY Long story a bit shorter,
today I surfed
like a puss.

Luckily there will be more semi epic days, and opportunities, God willing!

surf on

Trick or treat.......

T R E A T
It is funny how we all perceive the same "thing" differently.

As I was walking towards the beach today, Sunday, with Laurie and Jason I saw a couple of friends. One was just signaling in the distance to get out of the water as if it wasn't good.
My other friend said as long as your hear to just paddle around it will be OK.
What I saw was...
1)My wife Laurie had joined me, a rarity and always pleasant experience, despite the fact that it takes "longer" to get ready and go.It is so good to have her share this thing.
2) I was getting a rare chance ( nowadays ) to surf with my son Jason.
3) Air temp about 75. Sun bright and very warm on the skin.
Very clear blue green water. I see the eel grass swaying in the swell below me, lots of fish, exposed winter reef and sand bars.
4) Trunks still, yeah the water is cool, but with no wind and bright sun, it rocks.
5) Small little waves rolled in. Jason and I both caught a good amount and rode faces into 3 feet of water.
Jason had a couple really nice waves.
I had a couple more, but I am in better practice right now.

It was a wonderful day. My son was proud of me. My wife was proud of me.
WE were together in midst of a beautiful day.
I felt like royalty, standing up in knee high waves the color of.... well, you know.

surf on...

Beautiful, tropic Monday PM and I get......

SCHOOLED

Kinda flat looking. I decide to go in anyways even though my "buds" bailed on me before I got there.
Got to know a long time T Mar local and got a wave or 2. After Paul SR. split, there came 2 GREAT surfers whom I love to watch.
Along with them, came some swell as the tide changed.
These two would catch every bump or roller that came through, and rode em well and were very stoked on the weather, conditions and vibe. I was super stoked on the conditions and the dolphin pods around us. I got a couple, and then I started a real fun thing.
I started to F* up everything I did.
It was funny actually.
I got owned, and I am the one who ownethed myself.
Then Chuck came out and I proceeded to miss virtually every wave I went for.
As I was getting out I thought "aaahhhhh it's lunch recess at last."

No worries.
I get that sorta thing, it is actually what keeps me so stoked, in a way.
Sheesh, just yesterday I was.........

surf on ...

Sunday AM....... I GET MY 1st SHACK !

The Photo is of Chuck. Chuck has Terramar wired.


Chuck and I start the paddle out together and as we are timing the waves to get out

We are floatingbetween Paul and the beach, as he is getting tubed, beautifully tubed.
Paul is in the photo below.. NOT"the tube" but Paul, none the less.

As Chuck and I watch him come out of the green room he raises his hands in a victory "touchdown" kinda thing.
I was stoked just watching him in that pipe so close up, from the inside.
As I paddled by him I was kidding and said, "Oh I thought you were on your SUP"
He just smiled and said ,"Nah, this day is all about the Tube Fest"
Well.... he was right
and the time was finally right for little old me !

I caught a few nice outside to inside speeders and watched others gettin' covered and then coming out. There was some great surfing goin on this morning.
** THEN I got an outside right, stayed with it to the inside, started speeding up then squatted down and dug my hand into the face...
next thing I know, all I can see is white water, and I am in and covered up, but still flyin down the face. After a few seconds I came out, could see the shoulder again, stood and flipped over the back side of the wave. S T O K E D ! !
Chuck saw it, AND a woman happened to be taking pictures
of the only guy out there in TRUNKS (yours truly of course), so I may get a shot of that.
Anyways, it's etched in my head and heart forever.
1st good cover up ! !
hell yeah

surf on...

Friday night , Saturday Morning, and Life

Friday night and Saturday Morning were good.
PM surfing was with my son.
It is ALWAYS good surfing with my son.
JASON+FRIENDS+WAVES+TRUNKS+NATURE+EXERCISE=G O O D

Surfing with Jason is an integral part of the whole scene for me, although that has been changing, as all things must, I suppose? We surf together less and less. I dot think that will be the case for very long and I look forward to retirement and surfing often with him and his family if I am so fortunate and blessed.
These last 2 years have had a lot of changes for me and my family.
Yes, there were some good changes.
Most notably were the strengthening of my relationship with the love of my life, Laurie.
Also the addition of "friends" into my life.
Plus the building relationship with GOD and nature.
There were other ones that weren't so good, but I fight them physically and mentally everyday. Family, friends, God, and mother ocean will get me through the bad ones.

Saturday AM was good. Got out with my friends Dave and Pat although the waves were hard to get into I seem to be surfing well and better than before.
We had fun as usual.

Wed Pm was nice stuff.....

High tailed it from work to home.
Home to break. 5pm
Wife.
Friends.
Waves,waist to shoulder stuff.
Trunks.

Many waves , rights and lefts.
Good rides were had by all.
I had many more waves than a typical session..... AGAIN !.
Sunset
Green Flash
Dinner

Repeat...... if lucky

surf on....

Saturday PM very surprising and prolific

Saturday PM was very surprising and prolific.

Did not do a dawn patrol as the high tide scene was in effect.
Worked around the house trying
to earn a "get out in the water" pass
to go afternoon surfing at the tide pull out.
Well...
this worked out fine ! ! !
My better half, Laurie, went with me, brought a chair and sat and watched me surf long enough to actually see me get 5-8 waves.
This only took about 15 minuets.
I would get many, many more this VERY FOGGY afternoon.
NO ONE WAS THERE.... well let me clarify this to crystal,
there were 3 other people, spread out with 20 yards between us
and a proliferation of super glassy, frequent, shoulder high waves coming through.
TRUNKS
I had no rest time between long lefts and rights.
It was simply AMAZING.
Laurie then went for a walk while I spent myself surfing in virtual solitude.
I mean solitude.
I mean spent myself.
The fog-mist was so thick, I think no one figured it would be good.
Maybe they couldn't see anything on the cameras,
or... maybe it was just my turn.
Oh Yeah, I stood feet together,on the nose,diving board style,
at the top 3/4's of a shoulder high wave and
just rode it....
rode it long and good.
I am proud and humbled at once.
I am now surfing better than before the --------------------------->
nightmarish surgical, near death, sooo set-back, bullshit #*$^@ crap ! !
Haaaa
Thank you God.
Thank you all that helped me and are still helping me get through this !
surf on

Friday Pm ..............not as LARGE

but I had a good time.
1) My son JASON was with me in the water.
2) Other friends were there as well.
3) THE WEATHER AND SURFACE CONDITIONS were perfect.
4) T R U N K S
5) I caught several pretty good rides on both boards. This was the first time I have been on the small single for quite awhile and that was nice.
6) I actually out surfed most the crowd :)

THURSDAY PM WAS.....L A R G E

Got out after work and in about 4:30 or 5 pm.
Decided to go with the big board as I was not confident about my abilities to paddle out so well yet.
TRUNKS as it was still warm and I didn't need the restraint of anything on my shoulders ...
With the tide coming in fast and high I had to wait a bit in the soup, then made it out with only a few "dive for life's" on the way.
I sat waaaaay the hell outside,
with BIG ROLLING SWELLS passing under myself,
Pat, David and Kyle.
Those big fat swells slap a permagrin on me like nothing else really.
It's wild.
I let 2 waves go that I should have gone for.
one cuz someone else next to me was going for it
( I don't wanna eat anything other than dinner tonight )
and missed the other just shooting the shit with a friend.
( There are always more, right ? ),
After some time. the next "Bill" wave came through about a minuet after I was pondering all the obstacles there would be on the inside, if I did get a fast big one.
Oh well...... From far, far outside
I went, dropped far, stood, rode up and down the face, moving fast through the short boarders strewn the length of the wave....
I was laughing out loud the whole way,
had a great ride into 2 inches of water,
stepped off, and called it a night.
BINGO ! !
hope you all got some too
surf on

Last night I dreamed of BiGWavES

Going front side, doin mean rail grabs to get out of the late take offs.
Going back side, doin mean pig dogs to get thru and around the white water and onto the steep shoulders.
Dropping down the peak, cutting deep bottom turns and slowly standing on the way down the line.

I am hoping the forecasters are right, that the shape is there, and that my arms and body are strong enough now, just to get the opportunity.

I used to go out without too much concern,
pre surgical crap------>
Now thing are a little different for me, but I won't ever give up
getting back to square 1.

we'll see
surf on...

After work sessions, did I even go to work?

Wednesday PM
After work sessions, did I even go to work?
That's how it still is.
I don't even remember work immediately as I enter the water.
For another 5-8 years ( God willing I'll retire to a less stressful scene ) I hope that's how it will be. I won't even remember work immediately as I enter the water.
It's like playing hooky, its like a big washing machine for my brain, 5 minuets in and it's like all the troubles of the day are GONE, POOF, VANISHED, nuthin left but water, sun, waves, flying,
yep ......
Last night got calls that there were some waves at super low tide around 5 pm. I figure the in push will offer some up. It Did !
David says Pat says, so Dave is hoping for a repeat of the night before when were all in the water until 715 pm and its dark.
Kyle was there.

Wasn't quite so good but....we got some

yep ......

surf on

Frequent sets of 5-8 or more waves........................HHJJ

WoW, the first taste of winter like swell, cept for the warmness
When is the last time we had that?
I cant remember.
Beautiful sunset, water temp and conditions.
There have been some BIG nice days this year, but this is the first I have been in a consistent wave scenario in awhile.
David,Pat and I really had a good time tonight. Lotsa waves, with some punch and shoulder on some of 'em. Very few people in the water. We even saw "The Green Flash", big, bright and just as sure as I type this blog, astounding.
Surfed into the dark.
This was just one of those GREAT after work sessions.

one for the books
Happy happy joy joy,
LoL
surf on.......................

Whether Report (knot sew) Suite

Was hoping for the AM glass(not predicted)and the predicted swell, but no. White caps,wind, and victory at sea conditions starting up.
Sometimes yeah, but not this AM.

surf on

Im all about the Happy Happy Joy Joy.......... so if ya dont like it, suck it.................. LoL

I could NOT RESIST my own commentary on the state of being in the water.

Dawn patrol looked bad so I went home ehhhh
I figured the tide pull out/approaching swell combination would be good around 12 noon if the wind stayed off. Ooohhhh I got one right for a change.
Friends waved me to the reef but it didn't look too good yet ....but a beautiful day for sure. Then it turned on and Kyle, Pat, David, and I had the place to ourselves for about 40 minuets. Got some good stuff. It was nice to be out in the bright sun and warm water, midday. I practically never do that with Dawn Patrol and after work sunset surfs.

Tuesday's PM Surf was killed by the tide, but

I was warm, without human company, and I found myself in amazement while in the water catching a few swells.

Why was Sunday's Super Slick Session Sick ?

Because I have a great big






surfboard
that loves the glass.
Sometimes that board truly rules Ted's spot despite that
I am the one surfing on it LoL
Got out at about dark o'clock, trunks and ZERO air movement.
Water temp seemed up again.
There were 3 people in at Ted's.
Squat, Greg, and myself.
Alone.
Waves came through,
and we each got 'em.
Alone
Glassy ones, that got pushy on the inside.
Rights and lefts.
It took about a half hour for anyone else to get out.
I enjoyed this morning's session.
It was clean, quiet, glassy, and super glide(y)

Surf, surf ,and surfy surf.

Today's DP was nice, but slow. My in Laws, whom I love dearly, were in town and I didn't want to spend too much time away this morning and didn't.
In at 6am TRUNKS, out at 8 a little on the cool side.
4 -6waves
I did get "vague de la journée", so I was told.
A nice, outside solo that Aleta and I both paddled for, smiling.
She goes left I go right.
Thought I might get get frog housed ( LoL )- so I dug my right arm into the face and it slowed me, too much, probably.
Ahhh oh wel, it still was a great ride and got the compliments that I evidently (and secretly) need.
When they come it DOES, feel good.

Was out last Wednesday Pm after work and that was good too.
I actually had some really long shouldered lefts and was moving the big stick around pretty well for me.
Saw a new friend I have made at Terramar whom I haven't seen in awhile.
Kyle was injured about 2 months ago during some big surf when a ditched board cut his calf, literally right to the bone, for about what looks to be 9 inches or so. He took 3 layers of stitches and 2 months recovery, because someone let loose their board in a large set.
I really try to hold on these days. I learned a good lesson from his misfortune.
It was good to see him okay and back in the water again.
I know the feeling of being forced out of the water for periods of time too.
Kyle makes some super fine wood boards check this out http://karmasurfboards.com/home

SURFING is the LIFE for me

surf on ...

Saturday AM

Got out pretty early today 0630
Coulda got out @ 6 but didn't sleep well....work dreams YIKES ! !
Got a few nice ones as the tide turned and came up.
Nice, warm and glassy as we like it. Trunks if course.
Crowds came in fast this morning, probably cuz they saw me styling away on those smooth, long shoulders, uh huh !
Was catching rights after a few early lefts, so as not to get too tangled up with the others.
This worked out nicely.
I have never considered myself to be a great horizon set spotter but, I did ,and paddled away south and out to it ..... bam wave-o-the-day action for moi. A left,got a good drop, no one else was prepared, and much to my amazement, no one stood up on me ( shoulder hopped ) or otherwise.
Believe me that is rare around these parts, in these conditions, on weekend days, with those surfers.....LoL.
The return paddle out was rewarding too.
Got some more rights as the tide filled in and then got out by 820.
Sunday Im gonna get in at 6 and go directly to the reef as it looked( almost always does ) better.

It was a good surf morning.
I did, however, miss surfing with Jason and "the Dave".

surf on...

Sunday's swell was , well, swell

Better than Saturday
Sunday Swell was there but ...
Wind was on it immediately,I put on the spring suit up in the lot then took it off as soon as I got 2 toes in the ocean, so trunks in the wind...
Paddled outside and got a pretty nice left .
After that I would watch some friends get a few outside EPIC lefts. Head high drops and shoulders.
Most of the outside stuff would wall and closeout badly some with not so nice outcomes.
I avoided that scene... just wasn't in the mood to chance some smack downs today, so I stayed well within myself. After a bit it dawned on me that most all of the outside stuff was too closed out to get into and I picked up on the Terramar experts being inside and taking r i g h t s. Did the same and was feeling it. My rights were nice reasonably long, allowing me to get into the nose area several times.
Not what I truly wanted, that is to say I would have preferred some of those "better" rides ,but no worries, I like that I can surf at all.
I will

surf on...

I Paddled alot !

A funny "pre" windswell( ??) was on and coming on Saturday morning.
It was tough getting into any of the beach breakers for me and my long board.
I paddled to the reef , turned back n paddled to warmwater (hot water) maybe 78 degrees ?
Paddled back to Ted's and caught a few then rode one in.
As I stood on the cliff changing I saw some lines in the glass .

Finer still ! ! !

Friday it was Jason and I again.... I was hoping for less crowds and instead of thinking about who I don't want to hit, maybe I could concentrate on my board, myself and dancing on the WAVE.

Bingo. Got what I wanted and so did Jason
We each had some very good ones and it was sweet.
I love surfing sunsets and the last two didn't let us down.
Surfing with my son is always so fulfilling. I hope to do this until I'm gone from this earth

I am feeling more"normal" again.
It's been a awhile.
For sure it has been awhile.

Saturday's AM dawn patrol was great.
I got 2 GREAT waves ! !
Just the ones I hoped would show... fat, fast, and outside every one else.
As I was riding the sweet spot on best of those, I saw Alita, sitting on the shoulder way in front of me, with a pretty big " nice one Bill" grin on her face ...... like it, and, as I continued, some one else who was facing me as I was coming down the line fast was taking pretend camera shots of me, ya know?
I like it like that sometimes I need that once in awhile, not always but once in awhile its really good to get that stuff from your peers.

Sunday afternoon I got a couple in the super hot 100 degree weather and nice refreshing glass.
What a great week of surfing ! ! ! !

I have had at least 10 sessions in a row without missing any days....


I am just about back to good! I am so close now !
Thank God, family, and friends for that.
THANK YOU ! ! !

I usually don't whine....

I usually don't whine....but the crowds were a bit heavy today.
The swell improved as predicted....
I have got into a great forecaster by the way.
http://socalforecast.blogspot.com/
Big fatties were rolling in from the outside again, but this time there were more spots showing than just the reef. Unfortunately, there were a lot of short boarders, long boarders, body boarders, and sups all mixed in and spread wide.
All of these working the same spot, when there are pretty good sized outside sets sweeping through,just doesn't work well.
My son was there and that was a treat. WE shared boards and both got a couple of very good rides.I really enjoy seeing him get some, as I know he does for his old dad. Although I do admit, when I surf, I don't feel old at all. I feel like I'm a kid for sure.
I wish I didn't have to spend the majority of this day dodging sponges and insiders.

This is about stoke and stoked I am.
The waves were, well , some of 'em were epic.
The water quality and temp were epic.
Weather epic.
Friends and family, yep, epic.
Sweet ! !

Surf on

Tuesday swell so, so.........but

Tuesday swell so, so.........but

the water/weather was super fine. Got calls from both surf buddies saying go, although with slightly different reports. I have been out 5 days in a row and Im sore.I cannot resist it.
Brought a different board, and(after trying out a cutaway fin on the big board),it took me a few waves to get into any kinda of grove. We gort some rides in the bright sun and warm glass. THE highlight was watching Pat in the Hat take a 8 foot straight down, late take off. It was just epic really. He didnt make the bottom turn but that was just a HELL DROP, one I appreciate. He came out fine, maybe some parts were bruised, but man what a sight. I didn't want to get out of the water last eve.

It is just so fine right now, so fine. I am hoping for a repeat and in trunks in the water at sundown and beyond Maybe some of that cosmic canopy action, after the sun sinks below the horizon. Maybe...when the sky looks like this

Monday , more, more please. Thank you !!!

Monday Swell.........................Monday garden.

This swell has been nice. This swell has aloha.

"THE SOUTH" is here alright, though it does require patience, at least when Surfing Terra Mar. Since my set back I have only dreamed of dropping down big faces, in warm water, but in the last month my dreams have come true. I can. I do. I will. Made some good drops today. Got a couple of nice shoulders. My shoulders and back are sore , but in a good way.
This is what surfing is about for me and some of my closest friends.
Slipping through an all encompassing, silky,blue green warmth. Life everywhere around you.
All the senses are on full alert,and in full use, every one of 'em.
Sight, smell, touch, taste. Sound, thought, cunning. Being a hunter,being social, being primal, competition, fear, elation, exhilaration.
Joy, envy, pride,anticipation,etc. etc fill in the rest.
It just goes on and on if you let it.
It is so amazing.
I know this is very, well ,very something that may be thought of as over the top.
You know what though, it's not. It is exactly that and much more.
It is the most amazing of things. To receive this gift is the best thing.

I love the stoke. The ocean and it's power and beauty.

I am lost in it.
I am found in it.

surf on

Sunday night....... not too shabby

As promised a return to the reef for Sunday PM.
As I was ready to paddle out a large 7 wave outside set came crashing in. It was impressive.
Stoked, I got on the board and put myself to the far south of the break hoping to avoid the 4-5 person take offs on the left side of the peak.
After 15 minuets an outside set came,each wave bigger and breaking 5 yards further out than it's predecessor. On the 4th or 5th I turned and picked up a peak and a right. Several people on the inside but I stayed high and fast and the shoulder held.
Having replaced the 10' Standard FU fin with Daves 7" cutaway and side bites, the board was much more responsive than usual but still held me in on the face of some of the more powerful rides. I am really liking the different fin config's.
My right tonight was borderline epic and
I'm a happy boy ....

Surf on...... enjoy this nice swell and the warm ocean ! !

Sunday AM was better

After the blown out Saturday night surf (was still fun)
Sunday morning panned out just like I thought except for the 60 people in the water part.

Very glassy and trunkable. Spaced apart long interval biggish swell.
Dave got me up and there early enough to where we each caught some long fun lefts, some rights, and some steep, big drops as well.

Then the stampede came and things got a little dangerous on the big stuff, so after 2 hours we were out and are hopeful for the evening session with no wind and no peeps.
We will see.

All and all it was just what the Doctor ordered.

surf on...

S-a-tur-day ...... night !

Sat. night THE SOUTH swell shows up, as well as some blossoms at home.
Sat morn all dressed up and no where to surf.
Hopes were high but no real swell except for a very blown, wall-o-junk at Tammy, with 20 surfers all not on it, but trying.

W E N T H O M E
I almost NEVER GO HOME...

Nice day with Laurie and Lori and Geila. Saw Jason at work, which gives me pleasure to see my son working his way into his own life.
Went back out at 5pm and the swell was showing much better now. Dave and I had a great exercise, caught a few good keepers each, meeting out there @ 6 Sun morn.
IF THE WIND STAYS AWAY
IT'S GONNA BE GOOD ! ! !

Stoke on ! ....

Mornin' there Guillermo

Woke up ...got outta bed ...
looked out the window and scratched my head.....
Took a peek at the flowers... and had a cup.....
and looking up........ I noticed I was late
Headed out... to surf the glass...
ran with my board... across the grass....
Flopped into the sea..... all warm and green....
Got my first wave .....and went into a dream....
Ahhhhhhhhhhh......Ahhhhhhhh Ahhhhhh Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
Ahhhhh Ahhhh Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh
Ahhhhha Ahhhhh Ahhhhhhhhhhh
OK whatever that eh?
Spent 3 hours in, and saw the first swell from Guillermo.
Maybe go back for more if the wind stays off.
Sunday will be good too....
Maybe Jason and Emily will show up.

Nice, Nice, Nice
surf on...

Guillermo may be visiting on Saturday

Hoping to see a little south swell this weekend.
Guillermo may be peeking in your window.
Hope so !

Wax, rinse, repeat. Sun 08.09.09

IN at 6:45 am. Trunks. Cool, tropical, feel to the air.
Again not many people.
Perfect glass.
Fast got into a few lefts, and was feeling it right away. The swell was up from yesterday.
My board is performing very well with the smaller fin.
Really got into some nice fast ones, outside in, then would play on a few insides.
Got a little crowded and I got out. It was perfect

surf on...

Saturday 08.08.09

Saturday @6:45am. Looks weak and scattered.
Dave showed in the lot and I changed the fin on my big stick.
Went from a stock 10" ( it's a a 10'3'board,the yellow ) to a stock 8".
Funny but the paddle out was not as easy as it looked to be. No one else was out cuz it was looking like no waves. After a 15 min. wait a set of Souths came through and met some WNW (?) wind swell and bam, I'm in the peak and get a screamin left.
The board is amazingly more responsive cause of the fin change, and I am moving her around like never before. Got a couple more lefts and a right, David did the same.
The sun appeared,the crowds appeared,the tide appeared, the waves and us disappeared.

As I write, the Sunday morning coffee is almost done and I'm headed back out to rinse and repeat ( if possible ).

surf on....

Was surfing last night any good?

( OK,Picture is not last night,but Jason showing nice form! )
The original blog name 5 years ago was " surfing with my son."
"We" totally learned this together almost lock step. We both have a lifetime of surfing to do, and learn about.
We went out last evening, walked down to the reef and paddled into what were the weirdest waves I have been in, in awhile. Lots of peaks, then disappearing peaks, some with shoulder, some without. Jason was more comfortable than I, as he was getting decent length of ride on either board (we switch). In several waves, I would get up and not stay in front of the wave enough, lose momentum, then the wave would pass under me and vanish.
That is a very frustrating wave for me.
When I do get the chance to surf with my son, which is not that often anymore, I like to surf well.
I like him to see me surf well for a lot of reasons, as a father would, specifically because of the circumstances of the last 2 years and my rather miraculous recovery and return to the ocean.
I remember 1 year ago, post surgical nightmare, bobbing in the ocean with my son, still unable to stand up, and getting really frustrated. I remember wanting to get a single wave so bad.
I remember looking around and seeing my son want me to just get a nice, single wave.
I then DID get up, on a wave, on my own....... for him. It was when I realized I wanted it more For him, more than for myself, I was able to go through the pain, and just do it.
It was one of the single, most proud moments of my life.
From that point we ( family, friends, and I ) realized I could heal
and make a run at getting back to good !
So, was surfing last night any good?
No, surfing last night, with Jason, was GREAT ! !