Big Daddy's Day

My son knows what I like to do.

Surfing with him will always be my favorite thing to do.
Day started out cold and gray. So some Jason/Mom waffles brightened things up.Awhile later things ended up bright blue, warm, trunks, and a bit of a swell.
Surfed for hours. Afterwards Dave came home with us and we relaxed a bit. Then Jason,Laurie, and I all watched a nice blue ray together on my sons killer high def set up. Topped off the night with a root beer float and I'm one PROUD and HAPPY dad ! !

Happy fathers day to y'all, its a great thing being a dad and surfing with your son (children).

surf on....

A BIG South on Tuesday Night

A BIG South on Tuesday Night....perfect.
Got home after a San Digey meeting for work and the $2.00 Del Mar day traffic cost me about , well, 1 hour in traffic delays.
Looked at the Tam Cam and saw the big south lines. Hmmmm ..... hit it.
In @ 6pm and proceded to get shoulder high rides . To the south the reef was booming again, it really hasn't stopped for week ++.
I got mine and some fine rides there were.
My body is still healing, it has been 1 1/2 years now ! !
Have a ways to go.
Got complimented from strangers on some rides...WOW !
I am getting closer to good as far as recovery goes.
Stoked...YEAH IM STOKED
Who woulda thought......I didnt really , thank God for family and friends.
surf on....

More Reef man, More Reef

Went out today with a newly repaired spring suit that a bud...Birke Buddy.. told me how to fix.
This time I walked with Dan to the reef, after returning his shorty loaner from yesterday.
Surfer/Wave ratio was messed up.
Went to it but didn't compete with the Main peakers and thus didn't get the quality I wanted.
But I did get to chase Alita down the face of one.
She hopped me, kinda, I might not have made the section, I dunno,
but the view was good LoL.
Got about 5 right close-outs and 1 left.
Ah the reef...... many there get surly when the wave action slows. I just wasn't in the mood today, wish my son or Dave had been there, I get strength from them to handle that scene.

I love my wife.
I love my life, my son, and my family and friends.
I love to surf.
I love the water.
I love the sun.
I love being a surfer.
God, I Thank you ! ! ! ! ! !

Reefer Madness

The reef was in full swing this morning. Got out @ 630 and things were drained at the houses and the beach, but the reef just pounds on during the whole of last week and this morn.
Last night I never made it into the water....defective shorty zipper failed, and I wasn't in the mood to trunk.
Fixed the zipper( thought I did ).
Went out today, put on the shorty suit, and" voila" the whole zipper fell of broken.
A buddy, Dan, loaned me his shorty as he wanted to go full suit, repaying some wet suit help I offered him from a weekend prior.
I walked down with him and Chuck, but as they turned to paddle out I just kept walking to the reef.
I NEVER DO THAT !
Paddled out and immediately turned on one in the middle of 20 reefers. It was G O O D.
Good wave, but more so, Good for the HEAD and SPIRIT. I will admit I never got a MAIN peak but took off whenever I knew I could get one to myself, especially if I felt others wouldn't beat their section.
This paid off well. I got 6-8 really nice ones today, coulda done better and been more aggro, coulda done a lot worse and not have had any.

Might go back out tonight, waiting on a call,
well see