Wednesday, March 12, 2014

Surfing at Terramar is changing...................... for me, in a very good way. "It's a way of looking at that wave and saying, "Hey bud, let's party!"

I'm getting even more stoked these days.
Soo stoked I had to quote the infamous Jeff .Spicoli.

The last 2 larger swells that have rolled through, have allowed me to start to break out of a performance plateau .
I am feeling the power of the wave more and understanding how I need to respond to changes in the waves as I ride .

I am so joyous while surfing its kinda weird !

I remember while learning to snow ski some 30 years ago, what it felt like to go from doing a "stem Christie" one ski at a time turn, to doing a parallel fluid turn.
It was all of a sudden, and profound.
Well this last 2 weeks has not been as sudden of a change as that was,  but it is changing for me in a good way. A way that raises my daring and confidence to a higher level.
To quote Jeff Spicoli "It's a way of looking at that wave and saying, "Hey bud, let's party!"
I like it... A LOT ! !

Surf on

Sunday, February 02, 2014

Best surf at Terramar that I can remember !

The much hyped swell lived up to its expectation for myself and many others I surf with . The weather over the last 10 days was SPECTACULAR.

Warm off shores, clear skies ,warm water(60-62),
 glass, glass, and more GLASS !
Waves, Waves, and more Waves ~~~ ,
 Nice ones !!
The swell arrived Sunday 1/20/14, 2 weeks ago.
 I surfed after work Monday ,Tuesday and Wednesday, these were days I would load my board into the convertible and park it at work. At the ending bell I just run out to the car and drive to Terramar. As always, I am filled with anticipation and to an extent butterflies in this situation.
When the swell is so hyped, I can't help but wonder If my relatively out of shape and quickly changing, aging body, is up to the paddle out?
This swell was filled with lulls and not too much other swell in the water. That made the paddle out pretty easy .The waves came in sets, the kind where each successive wave breaks further and further out, making every one scratch to get over and out.
So odd to be way outside on a 10 foot board right next to someone on a 5 foot board. Makes it hard to judge who will get into the wave first.
I was so impressed how every one behaved themselves. Mon Tues and Wed. were great!! Lots of people in the water but I got mine.
Sat morning dawn patrol was a different story.
4 dawn patrols out, myself and 3 others. It stayed that way for an hour and a half! Extraordinary.
Beautiful, big waves!
Pure glass, quiet, punchy, nice drops !
Good shoulders,
Super, super stoked !
I rode some rights long and fast.
Sunday was more of the same but the wave was a bit different shape. Better in some respects....just beautiful stuff. I recall saying to my friends " hey guys look around, this may be as good as it gets".
 I have never been so stoked !
Each day before the paddle out, while waiting for the sunrise on the cliff,
I felt like I was a kid on Christmas day with the promise of some great gift or some thing.....
Got out again the next Monday and Wednesday for more spectacular conditions. Wednesday  evening I surfed in a line up of TWO... myself and another.
I asked James for some tips on how I might improve. We talked about me and my form in that I should stand taller with an arch with a more aggressive stance and work the wave more, possibly staying to the back of the board more consistantly,
rather than always running to the nose. This was my conclusion as well. We agreed that the one who has the most fun is the best surfer....but in a real way I decided to try this advice on the last two ultra long rights and it worked. Stood on the rear steering with the nose out of the water.
It worked well and I felt good about that.
So stoked on the week and a half of epic weather, conditions and beautiful waves.
 As I write this, the month of January is now over and the epic weather and surf combo is over too.
I have 16 days of surfing in this year.
 That will be a week and a half of surfing I will never forget.  I hope !

Saturday, January 11, 2014

Dawn Patrol .. how beautiful can it get

Today was surf # 6 in 2014.  This morning was different in that
lines were in the water.

Only myself and one other paddled out for "Dawn Patrol"(so far)
In 30 minutes here is what we found..
A swell in the water, enough  to tumble  on the paddle out.
Stayed out of each others hair for the first part of the surf.
Solitude.................... Quiet
The swell started to come, sets in a row.
We are alone in the ocean as far as the eye could see, catching any waves that were desired.I may have missed one or two by this time but had 8-10 in the bag very quickly.
I was taking mostly rights... at a left hand break
I was making nice drops and bottom turns and breaking with my inside hand to try to get covered in the waves where it was appropriate.
Fun ......................... FUN
Sunrise began waking up the sky
Super clear Skies ,light blue dawn skies,
just a couple of pink and orange wispy clouds in the sunrise
Super clear water......
Dolphins............a lot of them
Rolled right off the board and dove right down to greet one that was only about a foot out of reach.
I was answered back with a bit of dolphin dialog, haunting and beautiful as he swam by.
Super glassy water... glass and solitude are what I get up so early for.
Caught many knee to waist waves in the first part of the Dawn Patrol....
Many waves....  some of them split between the only two surfers in the water, right and left.
I was actually overcome with stoke and joy.
Stoke... Joy .
So nice !
After the solitude a couple of other Dawn Patrols came .
Now 4 were in the water .
Only 4
Still so good.
Dawn patrol is a GOOD group.
Got a few more, and so did every one else. Good times !

Got out at 7:45AM and headed up the the cliff.
I am so fortunate and very thankful
very thankful ! !

surf on

Friday, January 10, 2014

Here comes the BiG StuFF.. u u u f f f

This year has seen not much of any thing from the winter waves I thought would have been here by now. Last "year"(2012) I recall both a November and December had some large swell. This year 2013 Nov and Dec were very tame and small. Well I have now 4 days in this New Year. 2014 and here comes the first big winter swell for Southern California. In about 10 days there is a prediction for 10 day or more of 4-10foot plus WELL ALRIGHTY THEN I'm gonna get as much as I can surf on

Saturday, January 04, 2014

SANTA I want some Big Glassy Fat Ones to surf in 2014 ....... and oh yeah .......

1/1/14 I cant get enough of it. I am hopeless to resist its call. It calls a lot ! !
It was beautiful and the FIRST SURF OF THE YEAR as in #1
Sunny Clear and COLD in the air with about 59 degree water.
Surfed some big Tides that were 7'+ in Dawn Patrol
Really not feeling the hide tide inside so much
But the conditions were so spectacular that after getting a couple waves in the tidal smackdown, I chose to float on my back in the water at 0700 AM on the first of January !
I mean clear like a swimming pool and looking at the mix of sand,rock, grass,reef ,and fishes as I float along. There is just something very cool about doing this in January .

I Love it... all that is surfing.

Happy New Year

surf on...

Sunday, December 29, 2013

Winter 's here cold n Clear ! Swell Yes... Tide NO

Incredible winter weather ! ! Clear Cold nights. Clear Sunny days.
Some days this last week were 80 degrees.
Incredible winter weather ! !

 If only some swell were here.
I remember last November -December we had some really great ones roll through.
I recall some early mornings where only a handful of surfers would paddle out, and once we got out there we had to rest for a good while before even entertaining the idea of dropping down.
Having to choose your waves carefully. Nice heart pounding ones. Big off shore sprays coming over the tops and backs of the faces sounding like a rain storm splashing the water.
I am wanting those water conditions now.
I feel like I could surf those bigger waves better than last year.....
The last 2 days of surfing haven't been so good good for me in that the tide has prevented any of the existing swell to have shape. It has been close outs with occasional open faces.
 On Saturday I mistakenly chose to take the first pre set waves that showed and seemingly missed the set waves that rolled through.
There were a couple that I could have turned on during the paddle back out, but those would have been sketchy for me.( at least in my head I was fearful of missing the drop due to being too deep and being tired. )
I am not good at the "catch a wave, then paddle out and turn on a big wave immediately, scenario, and I regret this.
I missed 2 larger set  waves that way yesterday.
It makes me question myself. Don't like that at all.
Today the tide was sooooo high at Dawnpatrol ( +6)  that there was just too much water to get a good one so I got out with a couple of shorts rides under the belt...good enough. Got out and froze my ass off getting dressed.
Because I stay in my trunks so much longer than most I really think some people enjoy seeing me cold....weird, but I get it.
 What most people don't get is that I don't do the trunks thing to make a statement,
I simply do it because I love the feeling of flowing water over my body and I don't like the restraints of any kind of garment, in or out of the water.
I have a lot of work ahead of me this year in the surf department.
Losing 30-40 pounds for starts. Exiting my waves. Surfing more   at least 150 time instead of this years 100.
Good bye 2013
 Hello  2014 and the hope of all that comes with that

Saturday, December 07, 2013

Spectacular December Sunset in the water

My trunks came off in the 3rd week of November, @,@and gave way to the dammed full 3/2
Had a Sunday ( probably surf #90 ) 11 24 13where I think I got 15 waves or more to myself at the reef.
A fellow Dawn Patroler, Mike got a lot as well
 Just us 2 out on this beautiful, glassy, clear, and empty Sunday morning.

I got so stoked on these little waves, it was cool.
 The other night, after work ( Dec. 2) , I put on my trunks again and ran into the water,
It was cold, but so reviving, yes, reviving.
In trunks under the most spectacular Sunset in December

These pictures were taken, for the most part in the DARK, after it was all over,  and they don't begin to do justice to what I was witness to .
That sunset was in full spectacle and changing by the minute for what seemed to be an hour.
I loved it.
When I found other surfers I know had experienced the same thing I got even more stoked.

So very grateful..

Sunday, September 15, 2013

Im a great Surfer.....whoa, Huh?

Hah  # 78
No, of course I am NOT a great surfer. But of course I aspire to be good, and to improve, always.
Am I stoked?
Hell yes, I am STOKED  !

I am improving. Yep .
What is astounding  is that the process takes so long, at least for me.
I have gotten a few really nice critiques/compliments over the last days. THANKS to those that do this.
It keeps ya goin' !
The waves were good this morning and the crowds were way less than the day before thanks to a party that most of the " locals " attended.
A really good day of surfing....
I'll take it   as always

surf on..

Saturday, September 14, 2013

Wow there ARE ~ ~ ~ W ~ A ~ V ~ E ~ S ~ ~ ~

 # 77 After a month of flat or really small surf mostly we all get a push from mother O.

A clean, strong 545am push for me today.
Glassy, foggy, and un-used to anything over my knees in quite some time,
The Dawn Patrol ( about 5 of us in total ) set out to the reef and the houses.
I was walking towards the reef with my friend Terry,as it was going off, and decided to stop short and surf houses instead with Mike.
So walking too far past the houses paddle out channel I think... meh, its no big deal, and paddle out.
It's been so long with out waves that I forgot you shouldn't paddle out there really as there is no channel. So I get worked a bit in W A V E S.... surprise. A GREAT SURPRISE
Made it out and then got the fastest wave Ive had in a long time. A real long time.
F u n ! !
Got a few more then it got a bit crowded by 7am > the second shift showed up about an hour early today...Can't blame 'em I suppose.

So I got out and at right about the perfect time too.
Had a really good surfer I admire greatly paddle up to me after a wave and in a really stoked way congratulate me on a great ride. I love that ! It is so rare I ever get THAT !
Made my day.

A really good morning
So glad to be on some waves with some juice again.
Super stoked !

Saturday, September 07, 2013

Surf, Sit Down (on that board), and Shut up #75

This week I was fortunate enough to grab 3 days off after the Labor Day Holiday.
Wed,Thurs, and Friday, and get back to surfing with my son, Jason.

He reminded me (again) that I have no exit skill or even strategy after I finish a wave.

Basically for 10 years,
 I have been riding a wave to its ( or my own ) conclusion and then stepping, shooting, or otherwise JF Kooking off the board.
Ugly for sure. Definitely subtracts most any style points I can rack up during a ride
I've  known it but never cared, save a handful of times , to try to correct that.
So with my son's encouragement I will work on this in earnest. 
Well in the last four days of surfing I have at least sat down on the board at the end of the ride probably 30% after all waves I've stood on.
Doesn't sound like much, but wow, it is a lot better.

Mostly flat again these last days,1-3's, but the conditions,  weather and water have been insanely good for surfing.
I have loved surfing for days in a row and with my boy.
 Keeps me fired up and STOKED despite some very funky other aspects in my life.
 So for me it's gonna be SURF, SIT DOWN,  SHUT UP

I'm stoked

surf on...

Monday, September 02, 2013

69 is Devine.... been waiting 3 weeks for some, and

 session # 69 of the year comes through.
 After 3 weeks of very small surf...ankle to knee surf, we get a swell in the water on
LABOR DAY WEEKEND, crowds too, but none-the-less a fun sized swell.

Friday night after a, well,  a week of workstration, I am alone at home and decide to "go out you fool".
 It was 100 degrees and the water was probably 70. Humidity at 90 I would say
Despite the high tide there were a few bouncy waves to ride. Bouncy from the water rebounding off the cliff at the reef. The kind of waves that jack up with the reverse swell then the wave takes you on a little elevator ride up and down until finally it breaks. Like a rodeo, really.
Anyways the relief and release form the work week was so very much appreciated by myself that I got really stoked about the promised swell and end of the West Coast August Drought.
Saturday morning I arrive at Terramar at  Zero Dark Thirty to a full parking area. Wow.
So I trunk up and go right to the reef as its actually breaking there...
W A V E S are again in San Diego after virtually nothing for so  long. I mean really I am driven to "the reef" (without hesitation) from drought conditions for so long.
Most of the time at the reef the better surfers get most of the waves.
Now I love to surf but I know my abilities and although I over step them, rather frequently too I hope, in an effort to improve and aspire to my dreams of surfing, I am realistic enough to realize, well the reality of the situation. Which is why I choose to surf north of the reef most always.
The wave is less critical and certainly the people who surf there at " the houses" are less critical as well.
 Anyways this Saturday like a starving Hyena I venture straight into the pride of Lyons and guess what?
They were all in seemingly THE WRONG SPOT
I was evidently in THE RIGHT SPOT !!
Yay me !
It was like
Bill 12  
Reef PRO's 2   and there were about 20 reef PRO's by 630am
Had a good reef day.
This great day carried over into Sunday and Monday even though my count dropped dramatically.
Still was super stoked
Still am super stoked
Lost my reef inhibitions finally
Poof !

despite crowds

Saturday, August 17, 2013

Saturdays super small Surfing Safari..... F U N ! ! # 64 sometimes good things come in small packages

Got in at 0530 with only 2 others
So flat
So quiet.

So Summer
Maybe some of the highest part of  peaks were waist or shoulder high.
Most were knee or under as I see it.
Got one then headed to the reef as houses was just too micro.
Saw Dwayne and Bill get a few knee highs so I said yeah ok
Got there and immediately glided into a nice left with a knee high face that just kinda went on.
This new board can glide so softly in smaller stuff and catches them by itself .
 I can move it around also.
I'm liking it !
Deebs came over and we had a good talk and then a few more rolled in. It was so glassy and calm the you could just paddle, stop and glide then pick up the swell. The little shoulders would bowl around slightly and these sweet micro faces would just glide ya along to the beach. We were splitting singles going left and right 
 Front and front
 It was really super FUN Super Small and peaceful
Us four and some little gliders
 Great considering no one else choose to go out at Dawn Patrol. It just looked too small
 Surf on

Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Sunday July 14, 2013 #'s 55 and 56. A two-fer

How often do you get to surf
Terramar beach,Carlsbad, California USA
A L O N E ?
 #55 Nobody on the cliff. Nobody on the beach. 
Nobody in the water,
except I
Due to a road closure for a triathlon, I parked a side street and walked into the dark sea.
Well, I do believe another Bill was in the water down at the reef.
It may as well have been a reef 2000 miles away as I couldn't see or hear anything.
I surfed some nice waves in solitude and with out concern for a single thing.
I could hear my board in the water on each wave.
The channels to the fin make a pleasing sound when the board is moving fast and I'm turning.
This new board facilitates my turning.
A great experience this morning !
#56 Sunday part deux
My son and I went out at 3pm in the broad, bright daylight.
Went to the reef out of necessity ( size can matter )
I caught a nice reef wave amongst 25 others in the line up from outside to in.
Kinda like running an obstacle course.
Jason and I caught our wave in together , only to be hopped and snaked by the PRO's at the reef.
Still, a great day together in the water together for "us".

That's what started the whole thing.

Saturday, July 13, 2013

Surf number 54

0500 Super glassy

FUN ! !

Smaller at houses than reef , but.....surfed solo for maybe 20 minutes  and had some nice
LONG face rides into the beach. Seems like since the sand redistribution last year that there is a reform on the inside that's fun.
Still getting used to the differences on the new board,
Moved the fin up an inch and I believe I like it better all the way back
A new swell coming on Wed, Eve inspired me to request
this coming Thurs and Fri. off.
I look forward to riding this board in a powerful wave.
As of now it seems a bit slow compared to the big blue and yellow,
I need to feel some power under and behind it.


Sunday, July 07, 2013

4th of July ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ Fifty first surf of the year

Bang !

My wonderful board of 7 or 8 years has split open right down the middle.
Filled with " STUFF"
I cut it open and its draining and drying.
Many specialists say just " let her go man ", but it's hard, I mean what if my wife did that when I was going thru dire straits ?

Here's what I found after years of searching for the inevitable replacement board.

 THURSDAY The Fourth of July, #51  was super small and I found I could get into a few of those in a very different way then when on the other board. This board I can paddle, let up, and let the board glide into position and tell me when to stand. That is something I could never do before and it was profoundly different and affects me in a very good way.....Yay !I choose to stay away from friends and concentrate on the board and the wave more. Got out in 2 hours and maybe 10 or so waves ridden,,, small and weak waves but caught and ridden none the less.
SATURDAY  # 52 in at 5 am alone for 30 minutes in the bigger glass. Got many rides on knee high shoulders.
The reef was waist and above, however I stayed away as to maximize the amount of waves to get on my new board. It was good !
SUNDAY, #53 got in first and was joined by my DP buddies right away.
Waves not as potent but I got more delayed takeoffs and got to feel the board under me a bit more.
I am very STOKED on this board.
Was super anxious about it and am now feeling super stoked about it.

Saturday, June 22, 2013

Swami's Surfing on Summer Solstice

Sweet ! 
First day of Summer !
I always request this day off
Got in a double surf on my favorite day, in perfect weather!
Swami's swell conditions weren't sooo great, but
I did get to surf with my favorite surf buddy,Jason !
Laurie came too and we had a great beach day in the warm waters and sun.
Got some nice peaky drops and shoulders.
Did my Glad to get that outta the way kooky sled ride.
Then got a handful of nice stuff. So did my son.
Hope he knows how proud of him I am !
I have only surfed Swami's 4 times before.
I can say this.
The line up has a great vibe to it.


Wednesday, June 12, 2013

You-ness, Me-ness, Us-ness, We-nes,..... sickness ? Nah !

As we share the water we are a perfect mirror image
Almost an exact match
Old, beat up, disaster surgeries, stitched back together, and almost functional

Most notably however , we love the water and can still do it.

surf on...

Saturday, June 08, 2013

So.Cal. Big South Surfing Swell or bust

The much anticipated Big South shows up.......  so selectively
Today, session 42, was a good one for me. Needed it !
THIS is probably the smallest wave of this day

(#42 of the year 2013 ?  a pitiful number really )

This swell was coming in 16 second intervals at about 205 degrees and the sets were all there were.
It was glassy, calm and flat as a lake in between head high sets.

Got a nice long left shoulder all glassy and kinda fast.
Got a Big Drop to the right that formed a great head high wall that I sped down
marveling at the speed and size of the wave the whole way.
That one put a big  shit eatin' grin on my face.
Dropped a big close out to the bottom then got lunch served up
( later in the morning, while bending down to pick up and load my board into the car, about a half of a water glass of warm sea water poured out of one nostril, mmmmmmmm !)
The reef was getting it in spades, a lot of close outs but so big and THUNDERING
I'm glad I stayed at the houses today .
Only 5 people to the reefs 20 at 545am
I am riding the white board now that the big blue has been given a death sentence by Ding King
Once I am up on it I can move it better. Once I am up she's good.
Getting up is a bit harder but I'm getting it.
Yesterday I snuck out at 510 am to sneak in a pre work surf.
I rarely get pissed surfing but I got pissed yesterday.
Went to the reef knowing I had about 1 hour in the water the rush off to work.
20 people there.
Finally get a left and right as I stand a shorter board comes from the inside and makes the wave I'm on.
Yeah happens everywhere but this one got to me because, well, it did.
After polling a dawn patrol buddy, I find out what I suspected, and that was " well he was closest to the peak.
Blah blah blah, yada yada yada, I give him, the snake,  the full finger and go, pissed.
I completely snake my dawn patrol buddies parking spot this morning and laughed my ass off over it.
As I slid into the spot( just like that snake did to me yesterday at the reef ) I heard this AAAAHHHHHH!!!!!
then he lit his wheels up in reverse and backed down the road the wrong way into a spot .
I thought I was gonna bust a gut.
I am a very bad man.

Surf on

Saturday, May 18, 2013

#'s 36,35,34,33,32 Surfs of the year or sum such ting

 #36 Wow  Today ( Wednesday 5/15/13 ) after work and in the water at  5PM
Its my fifth day in a row ~!  This is a good, no, GREAT thing !
Board in the car and right after the job I just hit it...
Trunks, SUNSHINE (something this Dawn Patroler isn't used to seeing) and a few waves.
I have decided to take my long"est" board in for surgery, major stuff. More on that later.
So I am revisiting an old flame, slender and faster and I have barely discovered her sweet spot.
Plan to do a lot more discovering.
This has been a rebirth for me..... I forgot how great it is going from work to surf without going home first.
Tuesday after work I felt like I was surfing my 3@ board a little better. Still Great to get out right after work. It gives me hope.
#34 Monday I decide to start going out after work to get used to a new ( old ) board while my big board is in PRE-OP > I hear there is a big swell coming next week and want to prepare for it as best as I can so
I intend to get in as many as I can.
Waves are good-ish but I am not so good-ish.
Still it beats about anything else.
#33 Sunday was at the reef with only DP crew.
Got a few but not a lot. It was fun
Saturday went to the reef with only a couple people. Slipped into some rights.
Usually others forgo the rights for the bowley lefts there, but..... there are a few who go right there now cutting into my once very good odds( for the Reef )

Saturday, May 11, 2013

#31..Last Sat., May 4th.I put on a little show

Dawn Patrol with a cold breeze, 
 me in trunks,...... puttin' on a show,


Saturday, May 04, 2013

Lastly Last Weekend #'s 28 29 30

Feelin' like summer yet?
I am !

Last Sat was not all that. Got some and got out.,
At this writing 1 week later ,
I truthfully don't recall it.  I am 57.  
Uh oh.
Last Sun, a bit more fun.
Was at the reef and only the Dawn Patrol was there, I think...hmmm

OK...... LAST NIGHT WAS FUN  as in I was surfing kinda  "funny " but still fun.
Friday night and the swell and  warm 85 degree off shores  were all supposed to be there....

WELL  they were their, and then there was the tide .
Friday came at the end of a rough week at work. More so than usual.
TRUNKS super glass and very warm ( 65) water?
Nothing like Grinding away at work
while there is a nice swell going on. ( Thurs-Fri.)

Any way it was great to get out on a weeknight and wash the work week away.
I put on a show for those that were around to see me bouncing in the high tide.
Laurie is up at Oregon for a week.

Glad to have got out on a week night .......

Sunday, April 21, 2013


Now that was really fun !
In at 6am with super glass. The reef was showing some sets that looked chest high or better.
Fellow Dawn Patroler Mike headed there immediately. I choose to stay behind and see if I could pick off waist high peaks with knee high shoulders.
This worked for me today AND I really needed that.
In that first half hour in solitude I had many mellow glides to the right .

I am beginning to really like this type of wave. Especially the solitude and not having to
 wait and choose, it is nicer to pick and choose.
Some others came out and I enjoyed their company from a distance and we all caught some.
I got out of my wetsuit and into my trunks for some more sensuous fun
And Then... AND THEN.... AND THEN......!
A couple of really nice chest high and better sets came all the way over from the reef and through the houses spot where we were.
Nice glassy chest highs....
super sweet...
perfect finish to a super Sunday morning surf !


Saturday 4/20/13 #26 tHAt wIND SwELL is LIke

Wind swell is most certainly not my cup of tea.
Went to the reef with a friend and, well, I got 1 decent ride,
a right and the rest was an exercise in ...well lets just call it 
weird shit
Fun yes.... weird definitely
surfing IS GREAT that way
always different

weird on

Saturday, April 20, 2013

Wed, Sat Sun...#23,24,25

Wednesday April 10th. #23
Glass-ish, TRUNKS, clear skies, no wind
 After a very rough day at work and with the "after work" forces working again' me, I do make it out to my first mid week surf with my son this yea.r
Wind swell and a semi difficult paddle out at 545 pm make it an OK surf.
Well frankly, I must say it was
How it "washes away all that is bad", still works(?), WHY ? I dunno and  I dont care to know.
I just know it does, and that is that.
So we have a good time. My son lost his job of 2 years while on the cusp of getting a new dream job
He did not get the dream job.
He has taken back his athletic self however by loosing 28 pounds and running.
I have faith .
Good to see him catch a few in the water again that Wednesday
  Saturday #24 and Sunday #25 were so similar.
Difficult- for- me- to- catch -wind -swell ,and I go away feeling, "good" about a quality ride or two.
Good stuff but always wishing for some better rides.
I am deliberately exiting the back side of waves....at least on these two days I gave it a shot.
Trunks on Saturday
Wetsuit on Sunday ....bah  wetsuits


Tuesday, April 09, 2013

Sunday #23 Frustration and then.....

After 2 days of difficult to catch waves in the high tide early mornings of dawn patrol I get

MUCH more frustration on Sunday. Too cold in the air to trunk it at 615am
I go out looking at larger waves, but catch practically none, as my D.P. friends each get  one or two.
Again too much water for the swell.
After 30 min of that I decide to surf my own game and move north.
I finally spot an outsider and point my finger up to indicate that I have seen this to the others so they may prepare. I knew this one was coming north of them and I knew this one was mine.
Jacked and peaked right behind me and I dropped a nice steep left. Had a good ride and was super stoked right there and then.
Sometimes one is all I need
Sometimes I need one
Was perfection really.
surf on...

Sunday, April 07, 2013

The Birthday Sessions #21-#22

So I ask for a day off the day before my b-day  Friday 4/5/13

57   wow where did it go and how did it happen soooooo fast?
The forecast was for good stuff 3-6 spread over the days.
Friday was a very high tide at the Dawn patrol .

I have a hard time NOT doing the dawn patrol.
I just love going out first, or close to it .
So   Friday got a few, tidy and hard to get into
Saturday #22
 Saturday was Good too
Trunks and same kind of conditions. Love it though not the wave fest of last weekend .
Funny how waves can be 4 times the size but harder to get into ...such is surfing.