#36 Wow Today ( Wednesday 5/15/13 ) after work and in the water at 5PM
Its my fifth day in a row ~! This is a good, no, GREAT thing !
Board in the car and right after the job I just hit it...
Trunks, SUNSHINE (something this Dawn Patroler isn't used to seeing) and a few waves.
I have decided to take my long"est" board in for surgery, major stuff. More on that later.
So I am revisiting an old flame, slender and faster and I have barely discovered her sweet spot.
Plan to do a lot more discovering.
This has been a rebirth for me..... I forgot how great it is going from work to surf without going home first.
VERY CLEANSING.
#35
Tuesday after work I felt like I was surfing my 3@ board a little better. Still Great to get out right after work. It gives me hope.
#34 Monday I decide to start going out after work to get used to a new ( old ) board while my big board is in PRE-OP > I hear there is a big swell coming next week and want to prepare for it as best as I can so
I intend to get in as many as I can.
Waves are good-ish but I am not so good-ish.
Still it beats about anything else.
#33 Sunday was at the reef with only DP crew.
Got a few but not a lot. It was fun
#32
Saturday went to the reef with only a couple people. Slipped into some rights.
Usually others forgo the rights for the bowley lefts there, but..... there are a few who go right there now cutting into my once very good odds( for the Reef )
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