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About Me
- Bill
- I started surfing in 2002, as a result of my then 16 year old son Jason asking "why don't we learn to surf?" I moved from the high Sierra's 26 years ago to San Diego for a career, but specifically S.D. to be near the ocean and learn to surf. I forgot. Jason reminded me, 16 years later. On the Friday following California's Big Wed 2005, I failed to make a paddle out, as my son video taped me. Thats when "IT" really started. I was hooked. 2006 I surfed over 200 sessions and in 2007 it was about 260. Feb 8th 2008. I go in for a back surgery. I expect to be out of the hospital in 3-5 days and back to work in 4-6 weeks. What followed was nothing short of a nightmare. My hospital stay ran into 40 days. 4 near death complications. etc.,etc.,etc., My major recovery period turned into 8-12 months. It has now been 5 years since the nightmare and it isn't over yet. This is a story of the fight to get back to good. This is the story of hope and stoke.
Popular Posts
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After 2 days of difficult to catch waves in the high tide early mornings of dawn patrol I get MUCH more frustration on Sunday. Too cold ... -
This week I was fortunate enough to grab 3 days off after the Labor Day Holiday. Wed,Thurs, and Friday, and get back to surfing with my son... -
After Tuesdays stoke and the realization of why work seems soooo hard to me now ( my lack of after work surfing), I decided for a repeat bli...
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Surfing is getting more relaxed these days. I'm surfing better. Better than before the surgical disaster. A lot of that has to do with 2... -
Got a few waves out there Saturday, the first of 5 days off work. It was good it's always good.
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This year has seen not much of any thing from the winter waves I thought would have been here by now. Last "year"(2012) I recall b...
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Friday night and Saturday Morning were good. PM surfing was with my son. It is ALWAYS good surfing with my son. JASON+FRIENDS+WAVES+TRUNKS+N...
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The Photo is of Chuck. Chuck has Terramar wired. Chuck and I start the paddle out together and as we are timing the waves to get out ...
2 comments:
Hi Bill, this is Jeff. I'm the idoit that rides the yellow short-board at Terra Mar Reef. Your profile is an absoulte, unequivocal wonderful inspirational testmant at overcoming life's adversities. I'm happy to know you. I'll paddle out with you anytime, and share some waves.
Take care my friend------Jeff
danie034@cougars.csusm.edu
Dad, it's been really great surfing with you on Mondays lately and I can't wait until April 6, 2021 when you are retired and we can go surfing all the time :-)
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