I started surfing in 2002, as a result of my then 16 year old son Jason
asking "why don't we learn to surf?"
I moved from the high Sierra's 26 years ago to San Diego for a career, but specifically S.D. to be near the ocean and learn to surf.
Jason reminded me, 16 years later.
On the Friday following California's Big Wed 2005, I failed to make a paddle out, as my son video taped me.
Thats when "IT" really started.
I was hooked.
2006 I surfed over 200 sessions and in 2007 it was about 260.
Feb 8th 2008.
I go in for a back surgery.
I expect to be out of the hospital in 3-5 days and back to work in 4-6 weeks.
What followed was nothing short of a nightmare.
My hospital stay ran into 40 days.
4 near death complications.
My major recovery period turned into 8-12 months.
It has now been 5 years since the nightmare and it isn't over yet.
This is a story of the fight to get back to good.
This is the story of hope and stoke.