Terramar

Wednesday, March 12, 2014

Surfing at Terramar is changing...................... for me, in a very good way. "It's a way of looking at that wave and saying, "Hey bud, let's party!"

I'm getting even more stoked these days.
Soo stoked I had to quote the infamous Jeff .Spicoli.


The last 2 larger swells that have rolled through, have allowed me to start to break out of a performance plateau .
I am feeling the power of the wave more and understanding how I need to respond to changes in the waves as I ride .

I am so joyous while surfing its kinda weird !

I remember while learning to snow ski some 30 years ago, what it felt like to go from doing a "stem Christie" one ski at a time turn, to doing a parallel fluid turn.
It was all of a sudden, and profound.
Well this last 2 weeks has not been as sudden of a change as that was,  but it is changing for me in a good way. A way that raises my daring and confidence to a higher level.
To quote Jeff Spicoli "It's a way of looking at that wave and saying, "Hey bud, let's party!"
I like it... A LOT ! !
VERY STOKED
VERY HAPPY
VERY SURPRISED ! !

Surf on