Terramar

Wednesday, February 06, 2008

PHAT Tuesday was P E R F E C T ! ! ! !



I have had this planned for weeks, Tues thru Thurs off from work.
Why.... ?
This Friday, Feb. 8th '08'
I'm going under the knife for a disc removal in my lower back (L4-L5)
This procedure will allow me to be free to walk and stand for more than 2 min at a time without anymore excruciating pain in my legs and back.
I needed a really great, recent surf day under my belt
before I went in for this ......
and I GOT IT in A C E S ! !
Jason, my son, and I arrived in at our spot @ 10 am.
Warm, clear, offshores, glassy shoulder to head high waves ...
We had it ALL ALONE to ourselves.
It was as EPIC as I've seen in, well , a looooong time.
We just got our 10'2" nose rider back after being in the shop for 4 weeks.
Big steep drops, long, long shoulders, FOREVER rides, (and I mean almost 100 yarders), something that just doesn't happen much ! ! WoW. We were just laughing and grinning from ear to ear the whole time, time after time ! !
I got tubed for real for the first time.
" FROG HOUSED" I yelled, as it happened, as my son went over the top and out of that wave just in front of me. LoL it was just amazing. Just as many waves as we wanted, unreal amazing stuff !
It was as perfect as I could hope for.....
I love surfing with my son Jason,This day is one I can hold onto, remember clearly, use to inspire myself to get up and back into the water after my back is repaired, ASAP.
I couldn't have asked for anything more perfect and timely, for that I am forever grateful.
I am ready for the surgery now, and ready get right back to doing what I love.
soon to Surf on........