Sunday #23 Frustration and then.....

After 2 days of difficult to catch waves in the high tide early mornings of dawn patrol I get

MUCH more frustration on Sunday. Too cold in the air to trunk it at 615am
I go out looking at larger waves, but catch practically none, as my D.P. friends each get  one or two.
Again too much water for the swell.
So
After 30 min of that I decide to surf my own game and move north.
I finally spot an outsider and point my finger up to indicate that I have seen this to the others so they may prepare. I knew this one was coming north of them and I knew this one was mine.
Jacked and peaked right behind me and I dropped a nice steep left. Had a good ride and was super stoked right there and then.
Sometimes one is all I need
Sometimes I need one
Was perfection really.
surf on...