A clean, strong 545am push for me today.
Glassy, foggy, and un-used to anything over my knees in quite some time,
The Dawn Patrol ( about 5 of us in total ) set out to the reef and the houses.
I was walking towards the reef with my friend Terry,as it was going off, and decided to stop short and surf houses instead with Mike.
So walking too far past the houses paddle out channel I think... meh, its no big deal, and paddle out.
It's been so long with out waves that I forgot you shouldn't paddle out there really as there is no channel. So I get worked a bit in W A V E S.... surprise. A GREAT SURPRISE
Made it out and then got the fastest wave Ive had in a long time. A real long time.
F u n ! !
Got a few more then it got a bit crowded by 7am > the second shift showed up about an hour early today...Can't blame 'em I suppose.
So I got out and at right about the perfect time too.
Had a really good surfer I admire greatly paddle up to me after a wave and in a really stoked way congratulate me on a great ride. I love that ! It is so rare I ever get THAT !
Made my day.
A really good morning
So glad to be on some waves with some juice again.
Super stoked !
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