No, of course I am NOT a great surfer. But of course I aspire to be good, and to improve, always.
Am I stoked?
Hell yes, I am STOKED !
I am improving. Yep .
What is astounding is that the process takes so long, at least for me.
I have gotten a few really nice critiques/compliments over the last days. THANKS to those that do this.
It keeps ya goin' !
The waves were good this morning and the crowds were way less than the day before thanks to a party that most of the " locals " attended.
A really good day of surfing....
I'll take it as always
surf on..
1 comment:
Whoa! That looks pretty impressive. Shoot, I miss Carlsbad. Hope you are well!
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