Saturday, January 11, 2014

Dawn Patrol .. how beautiful can it get

Today was surf # 6 in 2014.  This morning was different in that
lines were in the water.

Only myself and one other paddled out for "Dawn Patrol"(so far)
In 30 minutes here is what we found..
A swell in the water, enough  to tumble  on the paddle out.
Stayed out of each others hair for the first part of the surf.
Solitude.................... Quiet
The swell started to come, sets in a row.
We are alone in the ocean as far as the eye could see, catching any waves that were desired.I may have missed one or two by this time but had 8-10 in the bag very quickly.
I was taking mostly rights... at a left hand break
I was making nice drops and bottom turns and breaking with my inside hand to try to get covered in the waves where it was appropriate.
Fun ......................... FUN
Sunrise began waking up the sky
Super clear Skies ,light blue dawn skies,
just a couple of pink and orange wispy clouds in the sunrise
Super clear water......
Dolphins............a lot of them
Rolled right off the board and dove right down to greet one that was only about a foot out of reach.
I was answered back with a bit of dolphin dialog, haunting and beautiful as he swam by.
Super glassy water... glass and solitude are what I get up so early for.
Caught many knee to waist waves in the first part of the Dawn Patrol....
Many waves....  some of them split between the only two surfers in the water, right and left.
I was actually overcome with stoke and joy.
Stoke... Joy .
So nice !
After the solitude a couple of other Dawn Patrols came .
Now 4 were in the water .
Only 4
Still so good.
Dawn patrol is a GOOD group.
Got a few more, and so did every one else. Good times !

Got out at 7:45AM and headed up the the cliff.
I am so fortunate and very thankful
very thankful ! !

surf on

No comments: