Sunday, July 07, 2013

4th of July ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ Fifty first surf of the year

Bang !

My wonderful board of 7 or 8 years has split open right down the middle.
Filled with " STUFF"
I cut it open and its draining and drying.
Many specialists say just " let her go man ", but it's hard, I mean what if my wife did that when I was going thru dire straits ?

Here's what I found after years of searching for the inevitable replacement board.

 THURSDAY The Fourth of July, #51  was super small and I found I could get into a few of those in a very different way then when on the other board. This board I can paddle, let up, and let the board glide into position and tell me when to stand. That is something I could never do before and it was profoundly different and affects me in a very good way.....Yay !I choose to stay away from friends and concentrate on the board and the wave more. Got out in 2 hours and maybe 10 or so waves ridden,,, small and weak waves but caught and ridden none the less.
SATURDAY  # 52 in at 5 am alone for 30 minutes in the bigger glass. Got many rides on knee high shoulders.
The reef was waist and above, however I stayed away as to maximize the amount of waves to get on my new board. It was good !
SUNDAY, #53 got in first and was joined by my DP buddies right away.
Waves not as potent but I got more delayed takeoffs and got to feel the board under me a bit more.
I am very STOKED on this board.
Was super anxious about it and am now feeling super stoked about it.


Anonymous said...

I want a "Big Johnson" board!


Bill said...

keep wishin' and hopin'