Photos courtesy of Ted, thats TerraMar Ted, a surf bro.
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About Me
- Bill
- I started surfing in 2002, as a result of my then 16 year old son Jason asking "why don't we learn to surf?" I moved from the high Sierra's 26 years ago to San Diego for a career, but specifically S.D. to be near the ocean and learn to surf. I forgot. Jason reminded me, 16 years later. On the Friday following California's Big Wed 2005, I failed to make a paddle out, as my son video taped me. Thats when "IT" really started. I was hooked. 2006 I surfed over 200 sessions and in 2007 it was about 260. Feb 8th 2008. I go in for a back surgery. I expect to be out of the hospital in 3-5 days and back to work in 4-6 weeks. What followed was nothing short of a nightmare. My hospital stay ran into 40 days. 4 near death complications. etc.,etc.,etc., My major recovery period turned into 8-12 months. It has now been 5 years since the nightmare and it isn't over yet. This is a story of the fight to get back to good. This is the story of hope and stoke.
Popular Posts
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After 2 days of difficult to catch waves in the high tide early mornings of dawn patrol I get MUCH more frustration on Sunday. Too cold ... -
This week I was fortunate enough to grab 3 days off after the Labor Day Holiday. Wed,Thurs, and Friday, and get back to surfing with my son... -
After Tuesdays stoke and the realization of why work seems soooo hard to me now ( my lack of after work surfing), I decided for a repeat bli...
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Surfing is getting more relaxed these days. I'm surfing better. Better than before the surgical disaster. A lot of that has to do with 2... -
Got a few waves out there Saturday, the first of 5 days off work. It was good it's always good.
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This year has seen not much of any thing from the winter waves I thought would have been here by now. Last "year"(2012) I recall b...
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Friday night and Saturday Morning were good. PM surfing was with my son. It is ALWAYS good surfing with my son. JASON+FRIENDS+WAVES+TRUNKS+N...
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The Photo is of Chuck. Chuck has Terramar wired. Chuck and I start the paddle out together and as we are timing the waves to get out ...
6 comments:
Woot! This pic makes me very happy!
Im glad to hear it makes you happy...me too !!
They are such masters of their enviornment, and have so much fun.
Dolpins are such a wonderful part of surfing.
The Stingrays are back. A novice surfer Memorial Day weekend was stung by a large ray. She was just south of the fenceline. It created a large cut and since she had no experience with this she thought she broke her foot somehow.
Ya know I was just wondering that today as I walked out. Ted said he had caught his first Halibut, and it dawned on me, that when the halibut come inside so do the rays. Crikie !
Sweetness! I have never had the honor of sharing the line with dolphins....I have had the unfortunate honor of a stingray to the toe.
btw you would make an amazing delivery dude.
Bill,
Two errors on my part:
1) I thought I was already linked to you, but, wasn't. Now am. Great blog you have.
2) I mistook a comment on my blog from you as an email and replied to a dead end. Drop me an email at whiffleblog AT gmail DOT com and I'll let you know my campsite if you're gonna be around.
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