POSSIBLY PLAYING A LITTLE HOOKIE
My own, little, home break finally wakes up with
a perfect swell direction, depth, and interval.
5-6 tiered, long, far, BURNING paddle out..the kind where you might never get out..
BIG FAT JAAAAACKING CRUMBLING JAAAAAAACKING STEEP BEAUTIFUL
IN SETS OF 5 AND MORE BREAKING WAY FAR OUT THEN FARTHER STILL
EXHAUSTING PADDLE OUTS/BACKS AND COMPLETELY SATISFYING
COMPLETELY
A W E S O M E ! !
surf on...and on and on and on and......
1 comment:
Yeppy Billy.
Really goody.
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