Terramar

Sunday, November 19, 2006

"Hey Kook, I'ma mess you up, bad!!! "

Might have to change the blog name
from; Surfing Terramar
to Surviving Terramar.
Saturday, I arrive at the "playground" about 10 am to coincide with a 2 foot tide and there are 3 cop cars, lights a flashing, in my parking spot. So I park aways down the hill,grab the gear and head off to the walk down spot. A 30 year old surfer is standing at the top of the bluff and down below on the beach are 4 cops and a life guard.
I figure "surfer down". I ask the surfer on the bluff what happened ? He says he accidentally hit one of four scuba divers ( in the middle of the surf area) The diver told him to learn to surf then cut his leash with the divers knife. Wordz were exchanged, they went to shore. At this point the (ego) injured diver pulled his knife on the surfer and told him he and his friends were gonna " f*&k him up bad" evidently at this point spear guns were pointed at the surfer. Surfer says "if you all wanna dis-arm yourselves, I'll go toe to toe with all of you."
They continue the threats, surfer goes to the top of bluff and his car and cell phones the cops.
I BELIEVE THEY ARRESTED THE DIVERS....didn't hang around, paddled out instead, got about 5 or 6 nice ones, some RIGHTS for a change. They started outside, formed a nice peak then the shoulders just jacked up as the wave got to the beach. On a couple I was trying out the rail grab, beat the close out, someday I'm gonna get tubed maneuvers.
It felt good,tight and right.

THURSDAY night went out @ 4pm ( mad rush from work to beach) got in and had a bunch of mediocre stuff........UNTIL it got dark and this creepy low fog came in.Everyone got out except myself and 1 other surfer.
Just then, wild 3 wave sets rolled in from the outside. These appeared as gray/black fat lines charging from nowhere out of the now foggy horizon.
Myself...I got 3 BIG, FAST, LONG,SWEETIES.An awesome and strange finish.
Was SuperStoked the next 24 hours.

surf on....

2 comments:

pushingtide said...

10 fucking footer!!!!??!!

C'mon. Shave some of that off.

Bill said...

I love the 10'2 slick
L O V E it