Wrong board-wrong tide oh well, trust yer instincts is the lesson I will take home.

This morning I arrived about a half hour later than I should have.
T-Mar WAS breaking but...... fatties lookin to break then shrinking until a little too close on the inside for a 10 ft. + board.
.
"TerraMirage" or "TerraMush" as some have said. I knew I should have brought my cali-classic Chris Slick with a trifin set up.....damn.!

Well I did my best (probably) and really got about 5 decent rides in 2 hours. I just cant take off REAL LATE on that board. The tide came up fast and killed it.

still stoked, as always, and thankful to the powers that be for giving this gift to my son and I.
Maybe I'll go back out now with a different board and a DIFFERENT TIDE.
Surf on, and on, and on.

Saturday I came, I saw, I went, IT was GOOD? ? ? !

Friday looked awful on the surfline Tamarack Cam ( just up the road from where I generally surf ). Saturdays cam 615am, showed a little better. At 430am Saturday I finished watching this Machado interview www.surfline.com/video/going_off/ video,
so I went EXPECTING CRAP up front. Maybe some victory at sea, which I enjoyed last winter at times. 0,o
7am Saturday I paddle out through sorta big NNW wind swell. A four or five tier,
( whitewater steps ) paddle out with a strong south parallel pull. My first semi winter like swell TEST. Waves were about shoulder/head ht. on the takeoff peaks, maybe 3-5 seconds apart on the sets and those in between. Warm water still.
After getting outside, I sat catching my breath, then turned on one, had a late great drop and an adrenaline pumping right. Because I thought it was gonna be crap so I let my wife a note saying I would be home by 830. Well stayed in til 10 am, had a few really great rides
I always have a good-great time "going", close to 200 times since Jan.
Glad I went......
As I write this on Sunday Am at 5 am Im goin again EXPECTING CRAP.

surf on

fire it up

Finally..............................W a V e S

Last night I went out, reluctantly just to paddle, as I always do when there are no waves and
B O I N G...... the reef was jackin up on THE O U T S I D E, HEAD HIGH, outside sets.
Did I say O U T S I D E S E T S......yep I did. big fat, breaking outside with lotsa shoulder and push.

All this in the middle of a 5.5ft high tide......

For a period of 45 min. we were all ( only 5 peeps out) hootin,hollerin, grinnin, SURFIN.

Bring it on.......
Surf on..................

O~B~S~E~S~S~E~D ?

Am I OBSESSED ?

obsession (countable and uncountable; plural obsessions)

1. a compulsive or irrational preoccupation
2. an unhealthy fixation

Oh, maybe so, doesn't really matter.
I've had 147 sessions since Jan 07, 50 of those were with my son, Jason.

The last few weeks have been interesting, A mix of small and frustrating, big and fun, lotsa smooth warm glass, no wet suits ANYMORE for a long time,(the no wetsuit thing is huge for me and my son)

2 nights back Jason and I had a great evening session in trunks, more the next day, and more again. His board rash was so bad he couldn't go this morning. I have been getting compliments now on my turns,cutbacks and other moves........VERY GRATIFYING ! ! !

Not that I HAVE to have that to surf, but it fuels my fire for sure. Instills confidence to move forward with the skills.

I am so looking forward to about 4 months of trunks and hopefully a few B i g swells.

Surfing leads me to HOPE.

I will go tommorow before work...thats in @ 5AM and ot at 6:15

surf on all of you, surf on.

THAT was cool !

Nice PMer tonight ! Kinda some texture but...
Trunks
Nice DROPS
Really warm( yes, actually WARM ) waters.
Got 2 rights at the TM reef that were, well G O O D.
Steep and long enough to do some long board dancing.
Everyone catching some, every one laughing.
O yes, and surfin it up with Jason, my son, is always good. Especially when he compliments me on the gnarly drops and stuff.

Summer, summer,
S U M M E R

surf on.....

People are killing our friends, murdering them.

http://www.10news.com/news/13512308/detail.html#
Isn't this just a shinning example of how wonderful the human race is.
Shooting Dolphins in the head.
I hope I have the good fortune to run into those folks.
Please let me happen upon them knowingly.

The Way we like IT

Tonight was fun. 5-8pm
TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS
Warm and glassy
Clear and looking at the reef under the board, watching the fish as I glide.
Effortless paddles and long smooth glides.
Pumping a 10 footer up and down and up and down. Cutbacks, and roundhouse's
Blue green water.
Occasional shoulder+ pits, and shoulders to dance on.
Good friends and good vibes.
Sun, sun, sun.
Stoke, stoke, stoke.

Surf on and on and on and on.

The locals are back

Photos courtesy of Ted, thats TerraMar Ted, a surf bro.

Are you a "Tube Dodger"? He's NOT

Find yourelf dodging the occasional tube? I certainly hope not !! But if you do...
Watch and enjoy.... by clicking the link below

http://www.surfline.com/video/video_player/video_player_640.cfm?id=5863

Remember Big Wednesday "05" ?

This is a series of great photos from So Cal. on that wonderful, wonderful day.
Scroll through them all and check the comments
Really priceless memories and laughs. Enjoy !!
http://photos.signonsandiego.com/gallery1.5/sdbigwaves/SMHbigsurf250296x005

Saturday 5/19/07 Thanks Doc

Went out this morning to keep my arms and spirit in shape, just to spend some time in the water.
I am used to going out 4 to 6times a week now,
2-weekend DP's, and the rest after work sessions.
Last time out was Monday. S u r p r i s e ! ! !
This morning I expected glass, fog, semi cold red tide water, and ZERO waves. I showed later than usual and found lots of the regulars standing on the cliff. I deliberately put my wetsuit on at home so I wouldn't back out of going in for lack of waves. I parked and ran to the water without looking at the conditions.
Well it was small, but there were waves. I probably stood 15-20 times in my 2 hours and 6-8 of those were full and satisfying rides. JUST WHAT THE DOCTOR ORDERED !!
Going out again tomorrow and really looking forward to the next predicted SSW
and a loooooong
5 day weekend starting this Thursday
surf on....

S u r p r i s e ! ! !

Wow...I know I didn't expect to see any real waves today, but.....SURPRISE

0630 am glassy,gray,cooler,no winds, peaks, some shoulders, nice drops, few people.

Surfed with Chuck today( below, in the wet suit) which is always a treat. Man that guy can hunt down the hot spots @ Terra mar. Chuck is always funny, fun to hang with, and a good surfer. I always learn when I watch him.
Good day today. Yesterday was a paddle out for a fallen surfer who passed on from a type of lymphoma @ 42 years old........

Surf hard, well, and often. Do something fun each day.
Surf on....

Took it All off

Monday night the suit came off in the last 45 min.
PERFECT WEATHER
GLASS
Cool Rides
Ted ( lives in a line-up house ) cranked up the beach boy tunes,
we sang the Sun to sleep.
Tuesday night, surfing Son Jason and I, in @ 4pm ish
trunks only ! ! ! !
PERFECT WEATHER
GLASS
some GOOD WAVES and SWEET RIDES
Good VIBES
GREAT TIMES....... SUMMER IS SO CLOSE NOW



surf on.......suit off.......

I WANT TO TAKE OFF MY SUIT

Today SUNDAY was almost summer like. ( took this shot @ Wind N' Sea today)

Medium, semi off shore winds slapping spray in the face. Blowing my SON and I south. Some pretty good waves coming Thur @ T-Mar.
Jason got a few goodies, so did I, but also got 2 late drops and consequent kook bottom turns, which I did recover from nicely and actually squeezed out pretty fair rides ( improving :) )

It's always GREAT to SURF WITH MY SON.

I went in without boots ( my feet always get cold ).
Boots off was good.....
Now I want the damn suit off...it gets so old. It's so constrictive, restrictive, and de-sensitizing.
Its like a full body condom.........

I Saw Wind and Sea today......what a beautiful beach and wave.

I'm going to take a surf trip there before summer break and the mega crowds that
I'm sure must be there...maybe a mid-weeker.

Gonna make the cover of ALMOST magazine

felt like this dude today.... kinda.
(pic. I took on "big wed" 2005 TerraMar/Igors reef)

Got out there @ 6:15am Got a few, nice drops, some shoulders, almost tubed, then as soon as the "apostles" lined up on the cliff, sipping java and taking it in, I turned to mush. Almost made some hell-drops, almost did a great roundhouse, almost made a stellar left turn, a l m o s t.
I did however complete a perfect and spectacular over the nose pearl......

Still it was great to get out, man, it seems if I don't get at least 3-4 sessions per week( 7 day period)
I GET VERY VERY FUNKY ! !

Soooooooo it was good.
thinking Sunday will be considerably better weather, form, and speed.

surf on....

Just keep it coming

Click pic' for a view of some glassy ass GLASS from Fridays morning session !

After last nights sesh, I was stoked I had arranged for Friday off about 3 days back.
Damn I'm getting better at calling the days off....
In @ 7am out @ 1130am.
Glass..not crowded..some big fat stuff AGAIN
Seems best in the high tide....albeit a bit mushy, enough size to crank it up though.

3 different people described 3 separate waves I rode as "waves-of-the-day !! L O L
That felt good ! ! ! !

Did get a hundred yarder....face the whole way, chesty,
overhead on the peak !

It was one of those mornings.................woooooooo hooooooooo

God its good to be alive and so stoked......
it's soooo good.
Thanks
Thanks for this precious, precious gift.

surf on....

Well... today was just kinda EPIC ! ! ! ! !

HIGHLY RECOMMEND THE POSSIBILITY OF CHECKING IT OUT TOMORROW
POSSIBLY PLAYING A LITTLE HOOKIE
My own, little, home break finally wakes up with
a perfect swell direction, depth, and interval.
5-6 tiered, long, far, BURNING paddle out..the kind where you might never get out..

BIG FAT JAAAAACKING CRUMBLING JAAAAAAACKING STEEP BEAUTIFUL
IN SETS OF 5 AND MORE BREAKING WAY FAR OUT THEN FARTHER STILL

EXHAUSTING PADDLE OUTS/BACKS AND COMPLETELY SATISFYING
COMPLETELY
A W E S O M E ! !

surf on...and on and on and on and......

Tues PM is all GOOD..mostly

Tuesday's session was what I've been waiting for for what seems to be a long time.
Warm, glassy, fat west swell.
Made a mad dash from work at 330 pm, arranged to meet my son and was surprised to see almost perfect conditions.
First 3 were great and pretty long. Then things slowed a bit with occasional rides for all. Some of those were great rides. My son had a couple good ones then ended up slicing a flap of skin off his hand with the fin. Went in and bandaged him up. Went back out til 730 pm.
During the last hour I stripped the wet sit off down to the waist so I could feel the water on my arms and torso. SWEET
I CANT WAIT TO GET OUTTA THAT DAMN SUIT...... I WANT TO TRUNK IT SOOOO BAD !!!!

anywho.....it was good. Looking forward to the rest of the week and hopefully this Friday off.....

surf on

It's heeeeeeeeeere

Finally some good size.
Tuesday PM. in @ 4pm, out @ 730pm
Warmer water presumably from the SOUTH
A little chop but sunny and a little breeze. A big, fat swell.
Deep pits on some, sections, clean-up walls, lotsa push.
Pretty good glass off
2 kook-outs,
3 wicked drops,
5 nice steep, long rides,
2 c l o s e calls with wiped out boards
1 saved the dude. staring at me from the inside 5 yards in front of me as I stood atop a bomb
Burning paddle out and paddle back outs.
Lotsa fun, cheers, laughs, and W H O A 's
Finally some good size.
This pic. is not from today,
but one of my Favorite Pics of my son Jason