After 8 months of a whole lotta Bad, I stand up and surf.

Last night under a clear, blue and purple canopy, bright orange sun sinking below the water line, with my son and 2 best friends with me, and watching over me in the line up, I paddled through the glass in only my trunks, caught a wave and stood up.
It was hard.
It hurt.
But not as much as my last 2 attempts. In fact it hurts no more, at all as I write.
My friends Pat and Dave, and my son Jason, were as stoked as I.
There were some A frames and peelers there last night and all got good waves.

Before my surgery( 8 months ago), Pat used to sometimes ask,
as we sat outside in the setting sun
"Bill, what the HELL are you grinning like that for?"
(some of my best sessions were with no waves at all... just the ocean, weather, and friends, you know, the sensual stuff)

Last night, all he said was,"There's that SMILE again !".
At that moment I realized that I could return to what I once loved, that it is actually possible.

Thank you Laurie for understanding, supporting, and loving me.
Thank you Jason for inspiring me, I love you for that son, and more.
Thank you Lori M. and Michelle for your endless support of myself and Laurie.
Thank you Pat and Dave for ALWAYS being there.
Thanks fellow bloggers and surfers for your well wishes and inspirations.
Thank you God and Mother Ocean !
Surf on..............I'm in.