Went out Wed.Pm after work for a trunks and sunset try. Weather and water were beautiful but I could not yet pop to my feet. Still loved being in the OCean but..
Try again next week.....
ANOTHER GIANT BOWL OF
PATIENCE
PLEASE ! !
surf on...
I'm going to be there soon ! ! ! $#%@##@$% ing #$@%
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There's a story about Lance Armstrong that I find inspiring. After his surgeries he was trying to get back on his bike. He was in terrible, terrible shape and could barely ride. He's out there one day and some middle-aged woman on an average bike just blows his doors off. Here's Lance - a former world champ - getting schooled by a housewife. Well, he felt pretty terrible about it, but what happened after that - as they say - is history. He battled back and dominated the Tour de France and he did it cleanly. Anything is possible, my man. Hang in there!
i would like to send you the film i made for this New York Film Festival.
I think you'll get a kick out of it.
I actually made it for a friend who is battling cancer, but I think it may be funny for you too.
I am so stoked you are back in the water!
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