So out into the sunny warmth, and glassy blue for another try...
I head out with my son
and run into Eileen (tri~athelete and ex work surf team member)
which was a pleasant surprise.
Stood up and RODE the first wave.... nice
Stood up and fell on the second wave.... cool
(only was able to stand once at last time out)
Stood up, got closed out and got Bitch Slapped HARD
I knew that was gonna happen and I have wondered how it
might affect me and my "issues".
Well It HURT and I haven't been back for 4 days .....
I figure I'll be ready for more in about 4 more.....
Everyday is better and better even if its worse as a result of things like the above..
make sense ! ?
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3 comments:
Being able to fight your way back must make you feel like you can face down any challenge that life throws at you. It is good to remember to listen to what your body tells you and slow down a little sometimes. Like you said previously, "Slow and steady wins the race." Very inspiring.
Don't ever give up.
Bill, you wild man! At least the surf is small these days, you're not missing too much as you rebuild. Congrats on the first post-op rides!
Your post reminds me of something a buddy said, "Even when surfing is easy, it can still be hard."
You and I should form some kind of post-op gimp surf brigade.
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