Theeees is the song I've been forced to sing for the last 3 weeks. Actually I've gotten out 5 times in 3 weeks, and I'm thankful for those sessions. Got several goodies and 2 Sundays ago I was lucky enough to fall into a super session @ Terramar proper and Igor's.
It was sunny, calm, glassy and nice shoulder highs rolling through.
All the regulars in the line up were totally fixated on the usual left.....and although I was just 10 yards south I had right after right for 30 yard rides and it was like I was "invisible".
No one was taking the rights, any of them.
It was H E A V E N, my first true nose rides , checking out the reef and the long reef grass swaying 10 feet below me and my board..........and this was one week into my illness. I thought, "well....this will kill me or cure me"..... and when that session was over I felt CURED.
Although the illness has lingered on it is finally over( bout 4 days ago)...whew.
Surf on ....
