After being stood up on Wed.and Thurs., She showed up Friday night, albeit a little rough around the edges, at least she showed. We made a date for early Saturday morning and sure enough she showed again, this time, glassy, strong, and beautiful.The paddle out was cool, only 3 out, and the lull in between set waves was just enough to allow me outside without to much huffing/puffing. Caught 5-8 really nice, strong,fat outsiders.
Got a great workout. The last wave in was the wave of the day( at least so far) and I danced up and down that beauty, through the inside lineup, and right to the beach. OH YEAH !
While changing, I saw a familiar, Paul is his name, good surfer. Asked about an acquaintance who I haven't seen for about a month, Richard Smith. He passed on 2 weeks ago was the reply.
Richard Smith..... 1 armed cancer warrior, surfer, Bro, and a truly sweet man...the photo above and below is for you. It's the viewpoint you always saw every weekend, while talking, watching, and longing to go "out" with your friends or no doubt alone too.
Like so many of us, Terramar was your friend, foe, and mistress. Here's to you Richard.
