Terramar

Monday, June 25, 2007

O~B~S~E~S~S~E~D ?

Am I OBSESSED ?

obsession (countable and uncountable; plural obsessions)

  1. a compulsive or irrational preoccupation
  2. an unhealthy fixation

Oh, maybe so, doesn't really matter.
I've had 147 sessions since Jan 07, 50 of those were with my son, Jason.

The last few weeks have been interesting, A mix of small and frustrating, big and fun, lotsa smooth warm glass, no wet suits ANYMORE for a long time,(the no wetsuit thing is huge for me and my son)

2 nights back Jason and I had a great evening session in trunks, more the next day, and more again. His board rash was so bad he couldn't go this morning. I have been getting compliments now on my turns,cutbacks and other moves........VERY GRATIFYING ! ! !

Not that I HAVE to have that to surf, but it fuels my fire for sure. Instills confidence to move forward with the skills.

I am so looking forward to about 4 months of trunks and hopefully a few B i g swells.

Surfing leads me to HOPE.

I will go tommorow before work...thats in @ 5AM and ot at 6:15

surf on all of you, surf on.

Monday, June 18, 2007

THAT was cool !

Nice PMer tonight ! Kinda some texture but...
Trunks
Nice DROPS
Really warm( yes, actually WARM ) waters.
Got 2 rights at the TM reef that were, well G O O D.
Steep and long enough to do some long board dancing.
Everyone catching some, every one laughing.
O yes, and surfin it up with Jason, my son, is always good. Especially when he compliments me on the gnarly drops and stuff.

Summer, summer,
S U M M E R

surf on.....

Saturday, June 16, 2007

People are killing our friends, murdering them.


http://www.10news.com/news/13512308/detail.html#
Isn't this just a shinning example of how wonderful the human race is.
Shooting Dolphins in the head.
I hope I have the good fortune to run into those folks.
Please let me happen upon them knowingly.


Thursday, June 14, 2007

The Way we like IT



Tonight was fun. 5-8pm
TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS TRUNKS
Warm and glassy
Clear and looking at the reef under the board, watching the fish as I glide.
Effortless paddles and long smooth glides.
Pumping a 10 footer up and down and up and down. Cutbacks, and roundhouse's
Blue green water.
Occasional shoulder+ pits, and shoulders to dance on.
Good friends and good vibes.
Sun, sun, sun.
Stoke, stoke, stoke.

Surf on and on and on and on.