There are no words to really describe yesterday's session, I will, however, give it a shot.

With the talk of the "swell" coming I was both stoked and depressed.
1) Another opportunity to actually surf
( as in what I used to do before, my now year long, post surgical nightmarish reality).
2) Another opportunity for the bitter reality of struggling for waves (and stoke) only to stand for 1 second and fall in pain, or worse not stand at all.
So it was with great reluctance that I went out with my son Jason and his new surfing friend Todd.
Oh yeah, there was a fat swell with long intervals and it looked do-able for me.
With my sons help on timing the paddle out I made it out ok. Beautiful, warm, sunny, glassy and cool water. PERFECT, but........
I paddled for about 5 waves during an hour period, and couldn't get anything.
Backed out of some late ( for me ) take offs. But did see my son catch an amazing long, fat right, where he used his wave/ride knowledge to outsmart a closed out section to get on the continuing shoulder and got one of those 50 yard face rides.
THAT put a smile on my face.
My sons friend was making some late great takeoffs.
THAT put a smile on my face.
My best friend Dave came out, we said our howdy's and he asked if I had gotten anything to which I gave the standard "nope".
At some point I usually say a prayer to God, Jesus, and mother ocean
to send me one where I can get up and "surf" as I once used to,
before the F*#* storm happened.
NOPE, nothing'
I then realized that my son truly needed to see his dad get on as he was once able to do.
Again I said my prayer to the powers that are EXCEPT I said it for Jason to see his dad DO-IT.
B A M
I paddled for a 4-5 foot fatty, stood, dropped, surfed the face, moving the board up and down, got out in front of the close out, cut right and
picked up the reform( which was considerable) and rode it all the way in.
After that I broke down in an emotional rush like I have never felt before in perhaps my 50 some years of life.
It was an amazing day for my friends and my son, and myself. SIMPLY AMAZING ! ! !

surf on....

Why did I Paddle out in a 7.05 high tide ???????????? Cuz I can!

Had a really poor day at life yesterday, work had really got to me and I was blah blah blah blah blahing. I haven't stood up on a board in 2.5 months. I caught 4 or five waves that last time and hurt my gut and back enough to send me to the Dr and put fear into me about my abdominal issues.
I've had people call me over the last months and ask to go out and actually been so pissed and filled with self pity that I've thrown the phone, cursing. The ocean calls me every day. I pine away for it.

Last night I said screw all of it.

This morning at 8am, I Paddled into a 7 foot tide out to some channel marking buoys.
Glassy, very cold, clear water cool 60 degree air and warm sun.
By the time I reached the buoy I was exhausted, that was a mistake for sure as the tide had turned to going out and off shores started, Anyways, I sat face to face with a big bull seal and his harem sitting on buoy # 4 and he got real pissy about that, so I went back in. My arms were noodles after that but did STAND UP ON A NICE SWELL (attempted a bottom turn) then fell off, and crawled out to the beach.
That was a good thing ! ! ! A very good thing!
So... for now.... I AM S T O K E D again, finally.
surf on

My son and his NNW @ S.Tammy awhile ago.... one of my favorite sets ! !