Lately I have not spent as much time in the water as I would like/need to.
I have not written in this blog in awhile now, which is really just been my personal story and "diary" of my surf experience.
I last left off after a surfing friend, Chuck, taught me some stuff.
Since then I have been out mostly weekends only, not too much after work stuff.
Jason and his friends Todd, John, and I got caught in a high tide situation where the water was cracking against the cliffs by the reef. Everybody's arms were shot.
We had to exit the water without getting slammed and then skip from boulder top to boulder top, carrying our boards for 100 yards to get out. No ankles were broken.
I learned a good one from that.
Got a few sessions in with Dave and Pat, but only a few
I have had a few good surfs with Jason,
I love to see him get some great rides, and his last couple times out I have seen him having alot of fun...nice!
My sister, Dona, finally passed on and left this world.
What a wonderful person she was, I miss her and it hurts.
I was fortunate to see and speak with her just before she passed.
LIFE CAN BE CUT SHORT AT ANY MOMENT,
THINGS CHANGE IN A HEARTBEAT,
LIVE ACCORDINGLY.
I hope to keep improving my abilities.
I hope to keep improving my condition as an aging victim of circumstance that a messed up surgery left me in.
I hope get back to 200-250 days in the water per year...
I hope to grow old and stay fit enough to truly surf into the sunset,
pun intended,with my adult son Jason.
I hope to have my wife Laurie join me in the water.
I hope..
surf on.... I will
