around now I can feel it.....thankfully I think its coming in.
A month out of the water is a long time, even for, comparatively, a virtual novice as I am.
3 weeks of bad back (thought I was over that,nope think again sucka) and a week of sever flu or whateverness.. Work has been a real piece of work and stress for some time.
But its all winding down for now
all of it,
breathe.
Oh I have done much longer stints..
a hahahaha,
way freakin longer.
But this one has been pretty long as well.
It started almost almost 6 months ago with a lapse in my surfing ability. I plateaued and was , well just really kookin' it up each session.
It was getting to me, to my confidence.
Then, a few months into that crap, I saw a friend commenting to/with my other friends about my flailing in the water whilst going for waves and laughing about
it.
This would have been alright
except
it was behind my back
and it felt not so hot. Well that combo'd up with the rest really tanked me.
I REALIZE IT WAS ME WHO ALLOWED IT TO SNUFF MY STOKE BUT.... IT SNUFFED IT OUT.
Anyways I am getting it back.
I got in the water for the first time in a month... yesterday afternoon.
I only saw one dude, "Hank" that I knew and spoke 1 sentence to, which was fine.
The others were a couple chicks who could surf real well and a few mellow longboarders.
Hot weather, glass, and some small cruisers.
Sweet
STOKED.... yep I was stoked
YEAH
stoked
No more sick
No more bad back
No more bad vibes
Gliding
grinning
Stoking it up, burn on.
