Bam Thursday Night I get the REDEMPTIONSESSION

Rough week at work.....

AND
after last SUPER SUNDAYS PSYCH-OUT SUCK IT SESSION,
I fly down to the water after work hoping for a buddy to go out with
but no one is available.
So..... I make the challenging paddle out alone and hang outside and they start rolling in.

3 or 4 drop down the face, fly out the back, walled close outs,
the kind where you can
launch over and out
AND
3 or 4 super big, long rights, steep drops and long high shoulders.
I really had a great time !!
in EPIC conditions.

Just what the Doctor ordered

surf on

Sunday's Surfer Psych-Out Seriously Sucked

Got there at 0630
Stood there until 0900
Watching
macking walled close-outs with occasional 10ft faces
kept me and my buddies outta the water.
Then it subsided, then I left.
LUCKILY there is(are) more on the way and a chance for
Sunday's Surfer Psych-Out Redemption Session
coming to break near you ( and me ) or us.

SURF (as in you have to go in) ON !