Nice PMer tonight ! Kinda some texture but...
Trunks
Nice DROPS
Really warm( yes, actually WARM ) waters.
Got 2 rights at the TM reef that were, well G O O D.
Steep and long enough to do some long board dancing.
Everyone catching some, every one laughing.
O yes, and surfin it up with Jason, my son, is always good. Especially when he compliments me on the gnarly drops and stuff.
Summer, summer,
S U M M E R
surf on.....
About Me
- Bill
- I started surfing in 2002, as a result of my then 16 year old son Jason asking "why don't we learn to surf?" I moved from the high Sierra's 26 years ago to San Diego for a career, but specifically S.D. to be near the ocean and learn to surf. I forgot. Jason reminded me, 16 years later. On the Friday following California's Big Wed 2005, I failed to make a paddle out, as my son video taped me. Thats when "IT" really started. I was hooked. 2006 I surfed over 200 sessions and in 2007 it was about 260. Feb 8th 2008. I go in for a back surgery. I expect to be out of the hospital in 3-5 days and back to work in 4-6 weeks. What followed was nothing short of a nightmare. My hospital stay ran into 40 days. 4 near death complications. etc.,etc.,etc., My major recovery period turned into 8-12 months. It has now been 5 years since the nightmare and it isn't over yet. This is a story of the fight to get back to good. This is the story of hope and stoke.
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3 comments:
I'm going to get more evenings in this year, I put the wife on notice!
I hope to see you sometime in the warm sunset surf bro.
Hmm.... You always come through wit the great pics, yet no trunk shots? What a let down.
: )
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