Had a really poor day at life yesterday, work had really got to me and I was blah blah blah blah blahing. I haven't stood up on a board in 2.5 months. I caught 4 or five waves that last time and hurt my gut and back enough to send me to the Dr and put fear into me about my abdominal issues.
I've had people call me over the last months and ask to go out and actually been so pissed and filled with self pity that I've thrown the phone, cursing. The ocean calls me every day. I pine away for it.
Last night I said screw all of it.
This morning at 8am, I Paddled into a 7 foot tide out to some channel marking buoys.
Glassy, very cold, clear water cool 60 degree air and warm sun.
By the time I reached the buoy I was exhausted, that was a mistake for sure as the tide had turned to going out and off shores started, Anyways, I sat face to face with a big bull seal and his harem sitting on buoy # 4 and he got real pissy about that, so I went back in. My arms were noodles after that but did STAND UP ON A NICE SWELL (attempted a bottom turn) then fell off, and crawled out to the beach.
That was a good thing ! ! ! A very good thing!
So... for now.... I AM S T O K E D again, finally.
surf on
3 comments:
Keep battling, man! When I was recovering I would often paddle 100 strokes out, 100 back. It wasn't surfing, but it wasn't too bad, either. :)
Keep at it. It's a new year... ;-)
Good morning! I was browsing the web for personal knowledge, finding your blog interesting!
I will with a simple, well made, wrote a moving, beautiful photos and how immaginerà not know English very well. I am sure it will include any spelling mistakes, I apologize in advance. I'm an Italian boy who writes poems, with a dream in the drawer, open a room in Paris a winbar.
I would not mind a comment, what I write, in my humble Italian site,
in thanks for the inadvertent intrusion greetings
Carlo
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