nice redemption sessions

After Sunday's ..... well after Sunday I was treated to an after work/evening surf with my son.

Wed.
I snuck outta work at 3 and got out and in the water by 330
There was some surf and the weather was perfecto.
We each got some glassy rides and saw our friend Don...groovy dude and good surfer.
Sat.
Waited until 10 am to go out cuz the tide was @ 6 feet. That was a mistake as I was told by a few. Paddled out to mostly peaks without shoulder, but managed to get a couple decent right shoulders out of it. Weather was great and I was satisfied.

so far so good
we'll see what Sunday brings

Welcome Winter Waves ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Saturday's dawn patrol began in the water @ 6am
with a wetsuit(first time since march)
Dave and I got a few although they were kinda tough to get into.
Had some nice winter rights on the smaller board and was moving around pretty well.
Sunday's dawn patrol began in the water @ 6 am,

Today it would be very very different for me ! !
I got "worked" on my paddle out,
more "worked" than I care to be "worked". I got "worked" for 10 min.
I was exhausted when finally got outside.
The sets that came through early on were beautiful. Big sets.
Big, glassy, deep green 2-3 wave sets way outside.
Big and glassy with spray blowing back from the peaks.
Some had great long shoulders. Some were close out BOMBS.

BEAUTIFUL

The first set a guy handed to me,
but I was still recovering from the paddle out.
The second set I would back out of,
still too tired.
The third set I relinquished to an another,
who rode it fine, fast, and furious to the right for a good 50 yards.
The fourth set he and I both paddled for. He was to my left.
I backed out thinking he was going right again,
but
he did go left, as a courtesy, I am sure.
Missed another.
Miscommunication.
On the big stuff especially, I am uncomfortable with 2 or 3 of us dropping close, in one wave.
I don't like to worry about the other folk should I mess up on a bad close out.
I don't like to worry about the other folk should they mess up a bad close out.
To make it worse, I got SUPPED twice from 1 SUP.
From 15 yards further out than Frikin OAHU. Supper's gack !!
We should segregate ourselves a bit in my humble O
To make my VERY Long story a bit shorter,
today I surfed
like a puss.

Luckily there will be more semi epic days, and opportunities, God willing!

surf on

Trick or treat.......

T R E A T
It is funny how we all perceive the same "thing" differently.

As I was walking towards the beach today, Sunday, with Laurie and Jason I saw a couple of friends. One was just signaling in the distance to get out of the water as if it wasn't good.
My other friend said as long as your hear to just paddle around it will be OK.
What I saw was...
1)My wife Laurie had joined me, a rarity and always pleasant experience, despite the fact that it takes "longer" to get ready and go.It is so good to have her share this thing.
2) I was getting a rare chance ( nowadays ) to surf with my son Jason.
3) Air temp about 75. Sun bright and very warm on the skin.
Very clear blue green water. I see the eel grass swaying in the swell below me, lots of fish, exposed winter reef and sand bars.
4) Trunks still, yeah the water is cool, but with no wind and bright sun, it rocks.
5) Small little waves rolled in. Jason and I both caught a good amount and rode faces into 3 feet of water.
Jason had a couple really nice waves.
I had a couple more, but I am in better practice right now.

It was a wonderful day. My son was proud of me. My wife was proud of me.
WE were together in midst of a beautiful day.
I felt like royalty, standing up in knee high waves the color of.... well, you know.

surf on...