with a wetsuit(first time since march)
Dave and I got a few although they were kinda tough to get into.
Had some nice winter rights on the smaller board and was moving around pretty well.
Sunday's dawn patrol began in the water @ 6 am,
Today it would be very very different for me ! !
I got "worked" on my paddle out,
more "worked" than I care to be "worked". I got "worked" for 10 min.
I was exhausted when finally got outside.
The sets that came through early on were beautiful. Big sets.
Big, glassy, deep green 2-3 wave sets way outside.
Big and glassy with spray blowing back from the peaks.
Some had great long shoulders. Some were close out BOMBS.
BEAUTIFUL
The first set a guy handed to me,but I was still recovering from the paddle out.
The second set I would back out of,
still too tired.
The third set I relinquished to an another,
who rode it fine, fast, and furious to the right for a good 50 yards.
The fourth set he and I both paddled for. He was to my left.
I backed out thinking he was going right again,
but
he did go left, as a courtesy, I am sure.
Missed another.
Miscommunication.
On the big stuff especially, I am uncomfortable with 2 or 3 of us dropping close, in one wave.
I don't like to worry about the other folk should I mess up on a bad close out.
I don't like to worry about the other folk should they mess up a bad close out.
To make it worse, I got SUPPED twice from 1 SUP.
From 15 yards further out than Frikin OAHU. Supper's gack !!
We should segregate ourselves a bit in my humble O
To make my VERY Long story a bit shorter,
today I surfed
like a puss.
Luckily there will be more semi epic days, and opportunities, God willing!
surf on
5 comments:
I floated for 2 hours with zero waves on Sat in Del Mar.... I live in La Mesa and the surf report says 2-4 foot. I ride an 8'. 4 foot is my max fun wave. . . the crap rolling in was way bigger than 4 foot, more like, try 10' face... Zero waves on a day like that is an accomplishment for me and my 8 footer...
I hear ya there.
Sometimes just the big stuff rolling under me is enough to stoke me up.
Give yourself a break, you didn`t let anything keep you on the beach, and you struggled but at least you got out and gave it a shot.Go old timer
I like this place! I love the idea and wish there was a place like this in Astoria, Queens. I am a surfer and found a "real surfer bar" in Point Break NYC. I am kinda jealous ;0PIts filled with surfers, people who like surfers, people who like the beach and people who don't want to live close to town. I really like this place. You know what they have these real Proctor and Channel One surfboards on the wall. It's nice for coming any day of the week and eating a late brunch. The food was outstanding. The brunch and sides were prefect and tasty. It is a perfect "escape" from city living. It is probably one of the only places where you can get a nice frozen pina colada or margarita. The service was on hit. They came up and checked on us so many times and made sure everything was up to par. It gets very active and the bartenders keep everybody having a good time. The bartender was very accommodating. He was nice enough to make a drink, that wasn't on the menu, for me :0) Did I mention the bartenders are nice eye candy. It was amazing to see their “das boot” which is shaped like a boot filled with beer. Don’t get me wrong, I am not drunk…it’s an actual boot shaped beer container ready to be emptied. Try it ..You will love it!! Oh. How can I forget, they even have a wheel o' shots where you just have to spin it and have to drink whatever shot it lands on!! Now call that bar creativity at its best!!! And when I spill a tray full of shots on myself, the bartender so kindly remakes them for me? Good music, too, and the decor helped us weather an otherwise overcast and rainy day. You know that old song "Brandy"? It goes, "Brandy, you're a fine girl, what a good wife you would be. But my life, my lover, my lady is the sea." I believe Brandy works here. No reason, I just do. And that song happens to be a guilty pleasure of mine, so that's a plus in my book. You can simply waltz over to this colorful and warm establishment, enjoy some drinks with friends, and walk home. The bar is right at the center, so you can walk to either side for drinks, and the bartenders are friendly and at your service. There is a variety of seating, good music, and friendly neighborhood people to make your time more enjoyable. Not pretentious, very cozy, I think Point Break is a fabulous place to spend some time with friends.
Love this Davis
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