With the promise of a new SSW and WNW for the weekend and a work week that was....
well...
they don't call it work for nothing....
I headed out Saturday morning at 0630.
The swell was missing...
except at the reef.
The reef was actually thundering with the sets.
The reef was also hosting 40-50 people that morning.
Those of us who were left out of the reef by our own accord,
really just sat and watched the show.
Big sets, big crowded take offs, with shorts and longs together....not really a good scene.
People falling, getting hopped and snaked ( oh yeah, a PARTY wave, not )
A friend, Terry, paddled over and talked about
how at 530 am there were only 5 people there.
Right there I decided to commit to a Sunday 0530am session.
I spent 2 hours on Saturday waiting for 2 waves to come my way. The reef would have 20 waves to our 2....this swell was that focused. Caught one in and went home.
SUNDAY
0545am
Terry was just going out so we walked to the reef together, and , there were far less people, 9 on the single peak, a peak half the size of Saturday...
The conditions were a bit more drained as well.
Waited my turn after backing out of 2 where I relinquished a take off to the proper "owner" of each wave. Got an OK ride.
Finally a nice set came through, looked around and I was in the right spot. Stood and realized I got a perfect left. Dropped and turned left, stalled then cutback right, and then I saw it, the dude coming down the line. I was gonna get snaked. period
This time it wasn't gonna happen. I did finish the cut back towards him then came around back left. The shoulder stood up and I glanced back at him again. He was still behind me, but I wasn't gonna fold on this one. Stood my ground and did as I pleased. He finally exited out back and I stepped to the nose and rode.
I rode that wave from( for those who know the spot ) South of the yellow house, past the beach club and all the way PAST 5 palms. The single longest face I have ever had.
Stepped off into 1 1/2 feet of water, and walked out on the beach.
P E R F E C T!
No reason to look back......
it couldn't get any better than that,
not on this day,
nope.
Got out at 0645 and went home to greet Laurie as she woke...
P E R F E C T O
surf on...
