After getting a call from Dave to grab a board and get out there, I did and was surprised.
A southern swell was on and mixing it up at the reef and Terramar beach.
Put on my spring suit.......
I mean, who am I to argue......?Made it into the water and ..... didn't get any waves, until.....
We drifted south a bit...
Then I got into 2 really nice ones right and left and surfed them in the top of "my" form.
It's so great when they feel THAT GOOD, ain't it? Oh yeah
surf on...
1 comment:
What the hell?!
Swear to God this blog just kills me. Here in L.A. it was 1' and cold.
DAMMIT!
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